Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Humming Noise Coming From Rear Passenger Side When Accelerated Up To 30mph
May 30, 2010
ok so i noticed recently that there was this humming noise coming the rear right passenger side everytime i accelerated up to 30mph. the noise would get louder the faster i go. i got it checked by a shop and they told me that it had something to do with my wheel bearing. my car is lowered on coil covers and I have negative camber on my wheels. Why its making this humming noise or if its because i never got my alignments. I am thinking of throwing my stock suspension back in and letting the dealership deal with it since my car is still under warranty.
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When the engine is fully warmed up no heater on, after driving about 7-8 miles in city my engine would make a fluttering/tapping noise between 1900-2700rpm at 5-30mph during light acceleration. its rotational noise definitely from engine. noise is light, to hear it all windows has to be up. noise can be heard when powerbraking as well
i had taken it to hayward toyota, dublin toyota and fremont toyota total about 4-5 times. some would lie to my face saying they cant hear the noise, some would say its normal. i used to be a mechanic now im a service advisor at nissan. always had confident in toyota bought 2 of them at the end of 2013 before i started working at nissan.
I had my shopforeman looked at it couldnt figure it out. had my master tech looked at it couldnt figure it out. both informed me this has to be looked at by a toyota mechanic to see if this is an issue they had ran into before or call a toyota engineer.
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I am headed to the dealer under warranty but still want to know. I have at least one oil leak and maybe several on my 2010 s. Passenger side rear of engine. Maybe minor seep at the chain tensioner but I think I have several below that. What are the two sensors below the tensioner? Are there leak issues on the engine? Car has 50K and is under certified warranty.
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So today I'm out running errands. Its hot and the ac is on. I notice water is coming out from underneath the dashboard on the passenger side. I pull the floor mat and water is everywhere. Soaked!! Ok so the ac water that's supposed to drip outside and underneath the car is now dripping inside the car. I pull off all the plastic crap, glove box to see if I can tell where its coming from. Not seeing it. Also some crap must have gotten wet because my check engine light is on along with a flashing vsr off light.
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I bought a used 2010 corolla and notice a loud humming sound at the rear when it reaches 40 mph. I figured it was the rear hub bearing assembly. I already bought a pair of Beck/Arnley 051-6262 hub assembly. I found two threads here about the removal/installation but did not say the torque of the 4 bolts behind the hub assembly. I read on the Toyota Manual that it is 74 ft-lbs. Do you think that this is too tight for a 10 mm back plate. The wheel/rims bolt torque is 76 ft-lbs but the nut is about an inch length. It is almost the same torque for an inch nut compared to 10 mm back plate. Is 74 ft-lbs right especially for an aftermarket beck/arnley brand? On the Toyota Manual, the 2003-2008 Corolla 4 bolt torque is 45 ft-lbs. The 2010 is 74 ft-lbs???
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I have a 2011 CE Corolla, automatic, with only 4800 km, and since a week, I hear a noise coming from the right side (passenger side)of the car, coming form the wheels when the car moves very slowly. It's a kind of toc toc toc sound. When the car isn't moving, there is no sound. So it has to be a moving part.
When I drive faster I don't hear it, but when I slow down to walking speed, with my windows up and the radio and fan off, I can hear the cloc cloc sound, and I'm not sure if its coming from the front or back wheel.
I tried rotating my tires myself to see if all was good and tight, and I saw nothing abnormal.
Even when I'm barely advancing, like half the speed of a person walking, I can hear the cloc cloc sound.
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If your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
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2010 Matrix XR, car drives great except while driving off of parking lot going slow over bumps I hear a bit of rattling noise coming what seems like the driver side dash area... it almost feels like its coming perhaps from the steering wheel but the steering wheel feels very tight with no play at all.. Other than that it's all good can not hear anything wrong driving on a smooth road or a highway...
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I took out coilovers back to stock struts and springs. before this, driving sound was normal. I know after the swap, alignment will off for sure. this morning when I first took it out for a drive after swap, I hear a humming sound while driving. note this tho, when I had my coilovers on, my tires were cambered about 2.5-3 degrees, not really that much. but now they are back to normal vertical stock angle. note: the inner tire wear, is not really that much off from the outer, but slightly noticeable.
1. do you think the noise is coming from cupping of tire from being cambered pressure to normal? like the tire shape is outta wack?
2. since the car is not bouncing up and down, its not a strut issue?
3. it cant be wheel bearing cos it was perfect before this morning when I first drove it.
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My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
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I've noticed since I bought my car that when I drive the passenger side window tends to creep down and I have to hit the switch to bring it back up. It doesn't come down a lot but enough to hear the wind whistle through it. I'm not sure if this is motor or regulator issue or what.
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I have a 2009 toyota matrix that as over 140,00 miles when I drive down the road the front passenger side bounces up and down. There is no difference in speed from 25 all the way up to 60 plus.
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I bought a use 2009 Matrix S 2.4L (2AZ-FE) with about 81000 miles on it. when the car is at idle i hear a light tapping sound on the passenger side. It sounds like the engine but am not sure what it might be. What is causing the tapping sound and how to fix it? (i saw some ppl post about the OCV.) The car also has a light vibration when am at a stop n in gear. Its annoying because i bought a car not a tractor.
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I just recently bought 2012 CorollaS. Great car inside and out with about 20k miles. I've noticed under acceleration and sudden braking a pop is coming from the passenger fender area. I've replaced the motor mount on that side thinking that might have been the issue, but it's still there. What are the torque specs for the motor mount. Maybe it's simply not torqued correctly.
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So my girlfriend has an 09 S, and it started to get a moldy wet smell.... I started looking into it and cleaned the sunroof drains with a compressor and flow checked them, they are all dumping out about the amount of water we fed into them. I pulled up the carpet and I have maybe 3/4" standing water in the rear drivers side only. The carpet is dry in the other 3 corners. Also the seat foam in the rear is wet and starting to mold. Where the water is coming from?
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I am trying to install interior led light strips under my driver and passenger side. I connected to wire to my front fog lights fuse. But when I connect the negative wire to a metal part the light turns on and doesn't turn off unless i take it off. I want to make the lights turn on when i turn on the fog lights. How can I do this / what did i do wrong. I am do this in a 2009 corolla S.
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Here is the problem, door and the driver and passenger side is on the lock position but can be open from the inside but not outside. The back 2 door works fine, its on the lock, you cant open it and you can only open it if you put it on the unlock position. Child lock in not active on all doors (I think its only back tho). Wireless lock/unlock works fine, I hear them lock but if you are on a driver or a passenger and the door in on lock position, you can easily open the door inside even tho its on lock position, but outside, its lock and cant be open.
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My 2009 Toyota Corolla LE is squeaking. The noise is coming from its rear break -- driver side. It happens only at a low speed when pressing the brake half way to slow down the car until it stops. Only 60-70% of the time though that it has the noise and only when going slow in the traffic and hit the brake. It doesn't seem to squeak on the highway.
The car has about 40k miles. I've heard that the rear brakes suppose to last ~100k miles. My questions and concerns are:
1. Is it too soon to replace rear drum breaks?
2. How to check the rear break pads to see if I really need to change them?
3. Are they just dirty? How to clean the rear breaks?
4. Finally, if I really need to replace them, how much does it cost in general?
I wish they were dish brakes -- so much easier to replace them.
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My wife's 2009 Camry has started making a humming noise from the passenger side when the heater is on. The higher the setting the louder the noise becomes. I took the car into the dealership and they checked it saying that it had "leaf's and debris" that had become stuck inside causing the noise. When I left the heater sounded fine. 2 days later the same issue, so I went back and they said that there must have been more leaf's and debris that the mechanic couldn't reach last time, but now it was clean. A few days later the same issue but I have not gone back to the dealership.
The car has approx. 22,000 miles on it, we don't live near many trees (some, but not many) and it is January right now so not many leaf's falling, and I purchased an additional warranty on the car for a few hundred extra and this is not covered. The dealership said that it is not covered in either warranty because it is not a vehicle issue but one caused by "mother nature" so...
Is this a common problem? Is this something that the "average do-it-yourselfer" can do? How do I know if the dealership is giving me the runaround? If I check this myself will it void my warranty, and where can I look to verify this?
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I've noticed a noise coming out of the rear seat for awhile now. Noticed today the driver side rear seat won't latch into position. Don't know how long it was like that. Even the lever inside the trunk is stuck in the closed position. It seems like I shouldn't be able to fold the seat down but I can't get it to close. The dealer said it would be a time consuming fix because they actually have to crawl inside the trunk to get to the assembly.
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The issue is I drove a few km's with the handbrake engaged in my moms 2nd gen matrix. I reasoned that it was showing me the exclamation mark and beeping to tell me the fuel was REALLY low, so I assumed it was going so hesitant to go to save gas...............
I drove a few km's slowly, and when I got to my street I stepped on the gas as a "hell yeah I made it", only to come out the car to see the rear brakes smoking all over the place.
Only about 20 minutes after I came home I realized what happened, (don't even ask what my reasoning for breaks smoking was this time) went and disengaged the handbrake, but now about 5 hours later I just saw my mom leaving in the car and there was a slight creaking sound coming from what seemed to be the rear.
Could the handbrake being engaged for another 20-30 minutes after the breaks getting so hot from all the friction potentially WELD the drums to the other part of the brakes? I hope I didn't mess up the wheels or the parts they are sitting on.
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