Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Manual Transmission - Noise From Engine Department
Jul 9, 2015
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
for these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when I am changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] .....
What is causing this and is it dangerous to drive this car?
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I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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I have a 2012 Corolla CE (base model in Canada) that is completely stock. Took delivery in Dec 2011. Manual transmission. I am finding the car stalls from takeoff way too easily. Have had many manual trans cars before, and have experienced nothing like this.
Can be driving around town all day, no problem, then pulling away from a stop sign or light, and bam, I stall it. The clutch is a at a good peddle position - not too low, not too high.
Taking off on hills is a bit of a nightmare. Will stall easy there too. So I have to over-rev it to make sure I pull away from any stopped position. Passengers have noticed and said, "What are you doing! And I have to explain that if I don't over-rev from a takeoff, it may stall.
Case in point: at a car wash, aiming into the wheel slots to get into the track, at a very slow crawl in 1st and the car encountered resistance when the front tire rubbed the guide, and bam, it stalled.
After 7 months of driving this Corolla, I still can't get the hang of the clutch !! Does it sound like something is not set up correctly? What to check. Basically, it looks like I can't drive a standard.
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I own a 2009 superwhite corolla xrs. I've owned the car now for several months . Ever since I got It, I've heard a noise coming from the engine bay . Sounds like a Metallic rattling .seems to do it in the cold and warm weather . I have a feeling that its the water pump . Every time I take it to the dealer it doesn't make the noise. It's makes the noise on a regular basis . Check out the video... ignore the dirty dash low fuel light... I was parked by a gas station i swear.
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Just recently purchased a 2013 Toyota Corolla LE. It has just under 500 miles as of today, and I was planning on changing the oil within the next week.
However, on my way home I noticed an almost ticking noise coming from the engine bay whenever I would accelerate. There wasn't a loss of power, but with the radio off and air off as well you could clearly hear it.
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Fiance's 09 Corolla S just started having a rattle/knock noise this evening. car has 123k. It's clearly an engine internal sound. I believe it is coming from the cylinder head. She called me when it started making the noise, she shut it off and has only been ran enough to get it on and off the trailer.
Not sure if it's a broken valve spring or valve. or the timing chain guides? It threw a CEL light.
I ran the code on my scanner and it came back with: P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8 with 18,000 miles on it. My wife mainly drives it, today after getting it washed, I was driving and noticed a very faint noise from the engine compartment. Seems to be coming from the passenger front. The sound is something like grr grr grr.... I made sure it's not the wheels by putting the car in neutral and giving it gas which made the sound audible (I can also hear it while idling).
I had my wife sit in the car with me, and she couldn't hear anything, but I can, so I'm afraid when I go to the dealer he will say the same "I can't replicate the noise". What it can be?
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When the engine is fully warmed up no heater on, after driving about 7-8 miles in city my engine would make a fluttering/tapping noise between 1900-2700rpm at 5-30mph during light acceleration. its rotational noise definitely from engine. noise is light, to hear it all windows has to be up. noise can be heard when powerbraking as well
i had taken it to hayward toyota, dublin toyota and fremont toyota total about 4-5 times. some would lie to my face saying they cant hear the noise, some would say its normal. i used to be a mechanic now im a service advisor at nissan. always had confident in toyota bought 2 of them at the end of 2013 before i started working at nissan.
I had my shopforeman looked at it couldnt figure it out. had my master tech looked at it couldnt figure it out. both informed me this has to be looked at by a toyota mechanic to see if this is an issue they had ran into before or call a toyota engineer.
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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It's a lite creaking clunk/shifting sound and only occurs in forward and when braking to a stop.It only makes the noise... when the brakes are initially applied.If the brakes maintain their engagement the noise no longer occurs.So... if the peddle is intermittently pressed when braking to a slow stop the slight shift/clunk noise will occur on each depression of the pedal.
The sound is located inside the engine compartment..guessing related to the brakes /or suspension components.If I were to take a stab at it's location in the bay.I would think it's loudest nearer the driver's side.I don't really hear it when I brake hard/stop abruptly.It's fairly audible within the cabin.I can't say it's a clunk... at least not fully yet but something has to be shifting slightly !? well maybe the front brake calipers/bolts are loose and the caliper is moving slightly... ? Or maybe a loose bolt on the suspension might be culprit.Could even be described similarly that of a dry coil-over seal compressing.but surely these struts/shocks can't have failed at only 30k ?I haven't pulled the front wheels off, yet, to inspect.
Very difficult for me to ascertain what might be moving/shifting while I'm operating the vehicle to make it occur.But I have to believe that fault lay with either the brakes or suspension.I'd also like to avoid the cost of a dealership diagnosis
some facts:
2010 LX
30K (well maintained/2nd Owner)
factory/everything original
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Car - 2011 Corolla S - Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slip when it is shifting from 3rd into 4th. The second that it shifts into 3rd gear the rpm drops and shifts into 4th (This is when i have light to medium pressure on the pedal). If i push the pedal down 3/4 of the way once the transmission shifts into third then the rpm rise for at least 4-5 seconds (which seems more normal). In addition the shifts are a bit rough when the transmission is shifting up or down.I am looking for some insight before having a dealership jerk me around.
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My transmission blew out at 64000 kms.
At first I thought it was my calipers - on my breaks that were frozen. Very laggy when I was driving there one day - took the car into car wash sprayed the breaks with hot water. Then Air Dried the with compressed air from compressor.
Next day while driving to work - the car got really sluggish again and this time there was a funny sweet smell coming through my vents.
Stopped car - called tow truck to take me to break shop - When tow truck arrives - He lifts my car up and there is a dark red fluid under transmission.
Called the right place because they also do transmission work.
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I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
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we bought a Toyota Levin 2013 in December New Zealand. We loved the car and for the first three months it went well. Then the transmission? started playing up. First thing on a clear crisp cold morning ( or that seems to be one trigger) we would move off from stationary and it would start to accelerate and then it loses power and almost comes to a stop ( approx 30 secs) then it would engage and move off. This has happened 5-7 times and is dangerous. It will also do this when hot and going up a hill. Toyota is trying to say this is a characteristic and there is nothing wrong. To me it is dangerous.. I haven't noticed the engine light go on.
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I want to know if its possible to swap in the 5 speed automatic transmission from the corolla xrs to the 1.8 trying to get that extra gear and sequential shift mode , or how it could be done a 4speed to 5 speed manual swap?
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On older cars I've owned, this has never happened. But ever since day 1, my car has been jolting everytime I shift from P to R. (Yes I'm backing out). Is this normal? If not, what should I do?
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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I have a 2010 toyota corolla s. I've noticed that during idle (in drive, braked) the RPM can sometimes run from 800 to 1,000. meaning, it is constantly changing while the car isn't moving. is that normal? Also, I've noticed that my rpm also jumps whenever i turn on the air conditioning. is that normal as well?
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