Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: RPMs At Around 2200 When Driving In Town At 40 MPH
Mar 28, 2013
I have a new to me 2009 matrix. I have noticed that the RPMs at around 2,200 when driving in town at 40 MPH then after a few minutes they drop to 1,600. I know I'm wasting gas running 2,200 RPM when driving at 40 MPH so I have started putting the car in neutral then quickly back into drive and the RPMs are at 1,600. I am also putting the car in neutral as I come to a red light or stop sign RPMs drop to around 900.
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When your car is idling the rpms drop below 600rpm and you can feel like its going to stall but then goes normal. How do i fix this? Clean throttle body???
Also how hard is it to change the transmission fluid? Possible to do it at home?
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I'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
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Ran into a strange situation today. I actually noticed it last week but thought it was due to Seattle's recent surge of hot weather but guess not.
Anyway here are the symptoms of my 2010 Automatic Corolla LE. Upon turning on the car, the needles do their thing and rev all the way and then come back down, I have watched the RPM needle go to below 1 since I've owned the car. Now, it stays at around 1.5k to 2k RPM before going down to below 1.
While parked, or just when I'm at a light, the RPM needle fluctuates and flip flops between roughly 800 rpm to 1k rpm every few seconds. I can hear it happen sometimes.
Because it hasn't happened in 3 years until now, I'm assuming this is not normal. Or is it, and is just regular wear and tear?
The only thing I have in terms of engine mods is the Takeda SRI, and I've had that for about 2 years with no issues. I have a 400W amp powering a pair of focals up front and a 200W sub in the trunk. But I've noticed all these issues when I have the radio off. I've been keeping the AC on 2 for the past week now, could that have something to do with it?
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
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Had a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
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I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
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I will most likely be driving my Corolla to Colorado this summer and I plan on attempting several 14'ers. I know you can almost drive to the top of Mt Evans which is over 14k. Driving that high in Corolla, how was the drive up?
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I've read countless threads on coilovers and springs, and I see that a majority of them are addressing ride height.
I currently have the stock springs on my 2010 corolla LE and I would like to make it drive more like a Lexus. I am aware that it is not a Lexus and will never be one unless I trade it in for one.
But I'm hoping I can do something about my perceived rough ride. I've compared it to a 2006 Camry, and even the Camry rides smoother.
I have my eyes on a set of BC coilovers. Will I be able to achieve a smoother (softer) ride than stock...
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I took out coilovers back to stock struts and springs. before this, driving sound was normal. I know after the swap, alignment will off for sure. this morning when I first took it out for a drive after swap, I hear a humming sound while driving. note this tho, when I had my coilovers on, my tires were cambered about 2.5-3 degrees, not really that much. but now they are back to normal vertical stock angle. note: the inner tire wear, is not really that much off from the outer, but slightly noticeable.
1. do you think the noise is coming from cupping of tire from being cambered pressure to normal? like the tire shape is outta wack?
2. since the car is not bouncing up and down, its not a strut issue?
3. it cant be wheel bearing cos it was perfect before this morning when I first drove it.
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I installed a K&N CAI intake about a month ago; the 69-8757TTK, which is supposed to be designed for our cars. And I noticed that there was noticeable engine knock when driving uphill. My father thinks it might be due to the extra air coming in and not enough fuel. Could this be the issue? Is there anyway to adjust or fix this? Not really looking to do a tune since the car's a 4 speed auto and it only has 130HP so it won't even be worth the money. In reality if I can't find a fix I'll just put the stock intake back on.
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Was driving the other day then suddenly fog lights stopped working, I changed the bulbs still wont work, so I checked the fuses to make sure all was ok, and everything was perfect. And now I am completely lost, have no clue what to check to make them working..
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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I have a 2009 toyota matrix that as over 140,00 miles when I drive down the road the front passenger side bounces up and down. There is no difference in speed from 25 all the way up to 60 plus.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE. Sometimes I feel like the driver side mirror has a slight vibration when I drive.. Also, if I drive over a rough tar road with ripples on the road, there seems to be the driver side window vibration also..
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