Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Starts Fine / Run At Fast Idle For A While Then Cuts Off Right Away
Jan 8, 2015
It is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
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This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
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I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
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We have a 2010 corolla that lost its audio but comes back if you slam the door. Does not seem to be a problem with the HU. This is a factory unit. I am thinking it has an amp somewhere but I can not find where it is. I can beat on the radio itself with no results so I know the bad connection is not there.
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My car carpet gets dusty so fast. I'm tired of taking it to the car wash every month. How about using a vacuum cleaner?
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Having this issue? Should I have it look at? Or is this normal?
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I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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I have an '09 Corolla S with the non-JBL sound system, 6 disk in-dash changer and 6 speakers. I am getting no sound from the speakers except a small burst of static when I turn the ignition on and once in a while sporadic static. The Radio is still playing CD's, FM, Etc, but no sound. All fuses are good and the clock works. I disconnected the factory iPod interface and still nothing. I also tried a different aftermarket HU, but still no sound... I'm on the road all the time so I'm over 50,000k and there is no warranty left on the radio. I've also torn the dash out checking wires and connections and can't seem to find anything abnormal.
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I don't expect many people to still be running OEM radios, but having issues with the stock radio? My girlfriend left town yesterday, and on the 3 hour drive, she said her radio just shuts off. Sometimes, when its on, the volume controls wont work, etc. W the model number for the stock 2010 Toyota Corolla S touch screen OEM stereo?
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Checked the fuses under dash and under hood. Fuses look fine. The only things that don't power are Radio, Clock and side mirrors.
Everything else is fine. Recently changed battery BUT after new battery everything worked solid for days.
Recently got a transponder key made because old key broke.
If fuses are fine i'm not sure what else it could be.
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My car refused to start after being in the driveway for about 2 days, the battery seems to be fine, the electronics are working, and the gas tank is full. The car seems like its trying to start and when you twist the key but after a seconds just sputters out. I checked under the hood, on the battery terminals there is some sort of red sticky buildup...
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I have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
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I posted a few weeks ago about the 2009 Corolla XE that I purchased from a Toyota dealer with 95,500 miles. Within days a buying the car it began to make a brief loud rattle on cold starts. People on this forum directed me to the VVT and they were right on. The car came with a 60 day warranty so they replaced the timing gear at no cost to me problem solved.
Now several weeks later, last night when I got out of the car with the engine running I heard a pretty loud noise that sounded like one valve very out of adjustment. This morning when I started the car the noise was no longer there but when I checked the oil it was a quart low. I have put about 1800 miles on the car since I bought it and the oil was changed at the dealer right before I bought it. I thought it being low on oil might be causing the noise. I took the car to the dealer and explained everything, the put a quart of oil in it and said to bring it back in about 1000 miles to check it out.
When I got back home the noise was there again so I guess being low on oil wasn't the cause. In terms of oil consumption the service rep said Toyota considers up to 1.1 quarts per 1200 miles to be normal oil consumption. This sounds like a lot to me.
And in terms of the noise that sounds like a loose valve I'm beginning to think it had something to do with the work they did to replace the timing gear. What would make this noise come and go? Doesn't seem to be any relationship to operating temp or how long the engine has been running.
So I guess I have two problems, potentially an oil consumption problem and a intermittent loud noise that I don't like the sound of. My power train warranty expires Nov 19.
And do the valves on 2009 are adjustable, the service rep said they were auto adjust?
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I have a Corolla XLi 2010 (1.6) which from the moment I bought the car it had this problem with the AC (I bought it used and was informed about the issue so I got it with a good price).
The AC sometimes starts and sometimes it doesn't I thought it was just lacking of freon gas but wasn't that, and except this problem the second one is that sometimes it smells like mold coming from the AC. May be are related or maybe not, but I really want to resolve these issues asap.
I'm adding some more info, when the AC isn't working I don't hear the AC sound, and of course when it's working I hear the classic AC sound, and another "thingy" is that when I push the car around 120km/h the AC keeps working more , and also some times if isn't working and I hit the turbo increasing the RPM and making the car scream like a sport car , suddenly the AC starts (but I don't do thsi all the time) and it's just my impression of daily-use.
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I just got my '09 Corolla last night and it's doing something I'm not sure it is supposed to do. When I go out to my car I press the unlock button and open the door. A beeping noise starts immediately before the key is even in the ignition. When I do put the key in the beeping continues and does not stop until I close the door. The car I had before this was an '89 Corolla so I don't have any experience with these keyless entry things.
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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I have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
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Just bought a used 09 Corolla LE with 89K miles on it. I noticed a subtle rough idle when I come to a stop light and especially noticeable when in reverse. Here are the things I've tried so far:
- TB and fuel system cleaned at Instant Valvoline
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor cleaner
- Replaced the spark plugs with OEM plugs
- Replaced air filter
- New water pump
- Bled the coolant system
I also took it to the dealership and had them checked the PCV and the timing chain tensioner replaced. And of course their response was they couldn't replicate the problem. They also said if there's anything wrong with the O2 sensors, the IAC or the TB system, it will throw an error code. So they basically charged me about $100 to tell me there's nothing they could do and just put up with it until the check engine light come on.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with 130k miles and started developing what felt like a slight misfire at idle. Dealer suggested change the plugs and if not that try the coils. So I got the wrong plugs givin to me there 5/8s not 14mm. I found a socket that worked and thought the old ones where the same as the new ones.
The 5/8 socket fell right in and knew it wasn't the right size after the plug wasn't tuning. Then I searched and found out there 14mm plugs. So now the socket is stuck inside the metal tube that goes into the head. I tried a locking extensions, long needle nose, hook with a slide hammer, pb blaster, heat, crc freeze off. Even tried spinning it as pulling up with an impact.
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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