Dodge - Caliber :: 2007 - Click Happens Most Of The Time When Start Engaging The Clutch
Jul 15, 2012
I've got a Dodge Caliber '07 that has a weird Click that happens most of the time when I start engaging the clutch, it doesn't happen when starting out in first gear, but when shifting to 2nd, 3rd and now as it's aging sometimes 4th and very infrequently 5th. It happens when I pass the friction point on the clutch and can feel it in the pedal - as a note - I've found that if I gingerly/slowly release the pedal through the friction point it won't do it most of the time.
It is fairly loud at lower gears, as I can sometimes hear it with the window open bouncing off buildings or things. I'm just wondering what this is?
I have asked at the dealership several times already about this - but the mechanic always reported nothing found and that it's normal for a transmission with that many km (I'm in Canada). I bought the car with 50,000 km and it has done it the whole time - I've now got 128,000 km.
My first thought was something with a bearing or something - as it almost sounds like the gear isn't quite in place and when the torque starts being transferred it clicks into place... I'm not sure - which is why I'm here!
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My AC hasn't been working for about a week now. It's just pushing heat, which makes sense with all of the hot weather. We did have a heavy downpour (torrential rain?) in the Cincinnati area about a week and a half ago. Is it possible water pushed up under my car and caused issues with the AC?
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I've noticed for a few weeks now that sometimes when I'm driving the steering wheel will pull kind of hard to the right. It'll do it for a while and then it'll go to the left, or it'll just go straight. It started to wobble and shake last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced a few days ago. It revealed that one of the two original tires had a broken belt. I had it replaced and the car drove better.
Today I had to go out of town and I still felt the wheel pulling in my hand to the right for a little bit and some small vibration that stopped after some miles. I checked the wheels and I didn't see a nail or anything sticking out. This is a very basic Caliber. No RPM gauge, no electric windows, or door locks, not even cruise control. I've had it for three years now. I've changed all but one of the original tires. It has over 99,000 miles on it.
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07 Dodge Caliber 75K cvt 4cyl been to the dealer 3 times already, started with a single knock when turning the wheel to left or right if the car is not moving, they changed tie rods, struts and steering gear. Now the engine hesitates when the car is not moving and while turning the wheel to right or left. Im tired of taking it to the dealer cause they take 4 days to fix anything..
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Here's the issue-We're in Wisconsin, and it has been cold lately.After not driving her car for about five days, my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber would not start. It gave her a repeated clicking noise, and all the electrical inside the car came on. I jumped the car, and it started just fine, drove it around for about 30 minutes, no battery indicator on the dash, cut the engine, started it right back up. The next morning, the car would not start again- same situation, clicking noise, everything in the car working (but nothing was left on).I went and picked up a new battery, but was having trouble getting the old one out. This time, though, the car won't take a jump. I checked the electrolyte levels, and they appear fine. I let the car charge on the cables (which are nice ones, not cheap, thin ones) for 15 minutes and more, and the most I got out of the car was a weak attempt to turn over, but mostly just the repeated clicking noise. I can't even jump the thing to get it looked at, and its in a narrow alley that will make towing next to impossible.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Toyota Solara. I've been driving it, infrequently, for about 3 years, and while it's an older car, I never had any problems engaging the clutch. My girlfriend also did not have any issues with the car. I don't have a lot of experience with manual transmissions.
Recently, we let our friend use it for the day. I dropped the car off at his place and did not notice anything wrong with it. The next day, I got a call from my friend who said that the car was emitting a weird smell and that he was having a hard time engaging the clutch. By the end of the day, he could no longer engage the clutch and had to leave it on the side of the road.
We got it towed to a garage, and when they looked at it, they said the clutch was totally burned out. My friend insists that he has plenty of experience driving with a manual transmission and that there must have been a problem with the clutch before we gave him the car. Is this possible? It seems unlikely to me, as neither my girlfriend nor I had any problems with the car. It's not like we were struggling to engage the clutch- it was fine when I dropped it off, and then the next day it's totally burned out.
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Just noticed a clicking noise every time I push the clutch pedal down, I had my wife push the pedal while I listened under the hood and no noise it's coming from the clutch assembly under the dash! It's a 2013 only 4000km's on it so it's not like anything should be worn from over use etc. It's when I had the radio off driving I heard it, not super loud but more curiosity if it's normal noise from a clutch assembly.
As well the odd time I hear well my wife heard and pointed it out to me, when I push the brake pedal (more when we get in the car in the morning after sitting overnight) the same kinda sound more like when brake pad's are gently popping loose I guess you could say!? Like I said its mainly only after sitting for awhile, but we did hear it the odd time just as I go to slow down and only a quick 'click' again not deadly or anything more annoying that the car is brand new and we went brand new cause we were tired of creepy older cars we'd previously driven! I'm wondering if that may be exactly why its doing it since its new and need's to be used a bit to loosen up, this is the actually the first brand new no previous drivers car I've had!
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I have a '97 Explorer XLT with a 5.0L V8. Recently, I've developed a problem, in which it doesn't always start. Sometimes, when I turn the key, there is a very loud click (as if the solenoid is engaging), but there is no start. The battery is NEW, and confirmed good, and the terminal connections are tight. I have also replaced the solenoid, but the issue remains.
If I turn on the headlights, before trying to start it, the lights DO NOT dim when the key is turned...indicating NO draw, on the electrical system. I can try it several days a week, unsuccessfully. And then, one day, I can turn the key and it will start as if there was never a problem to begin with.
I have lost confidence in my favorite vehicle, as I am afraid to drive it if/when it does start, for fear of being stranded. I am thinking it may just have a bad armature, or windings in the starter, but if that doesn't correct it, I can't return the starter (as it is an electrical component).
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My son had his engine replaced with a new engine due rod through engine. new engine had 4,000 miles. mechanic installed and check engine light was on. code showed o2 sensors needed to be replaced. these were replaced 2x and light still would not go off. It was taken to the dodge dealership in March 2011. ecu was found to be bad and was replaced. ecu continued to show bad o2 sensors. dealership replaced with manufacturer o2 sensors. code then showed "lean engine". The dealership could not even begin to tell us what was wrong unless they did more diagnostic testing for another $300 - 400 and that was not to fix the problem! Decided that was ridiculous. Took to an outside mechanic. Testing was done and showed that the fuel pump needed replaced. This was done. I don't believe anymore codes are coming up (this needs to be confirmed) but the engine light won't go off.
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The problem I am having started about a year ago, the car audio will suddenly shut off while playing, at first I could get a few minutes, then other times 30 minutes of audio playing, now I cannot even get a minute before it shuts itself off. What happens is the audio will play then it will start to cut out for a brief few seconds and get really low so that you can barely hear it. Then it completely cuts out and you can hear a small bass thump from the rear passenger speaker.
I thought it might have been a speaker issue so I disconnected both rear speakers, the same problem presented itself, however there was no bass thump (obviously as the speakers were disconnected).
It seemed like at first when it was really cold out out (-35C) it would stay on longer, now I cannot get any more than a minute regardless of temperature outside. The deck stays on and if I push the power button on and off it will come back for a brief second and shut right back off - Although when you try to turn it back on it has that really low muffled sound you can barely hear; seems like you have to wait at least 10 minutes before you can even regain 5 seconds of clear audio before shutting off.
I should also note that when the audio does cut out I am able to drop the volume knob and it shows the audio level decreasing, however it will not let me raise the audio level until I power on and off - It just gets stuck at whatever number the audio shut off at or I can lower the volume knob (not like it makes a difference since there is no audio coming out).
This is a factory deck in a Dodge Caliber 2010 SXT with absolutely no modifications to the cars audio or any other area.
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My 2011 Dodge Caliber has been acting up and I am getting NO Where with the dealership. They keep telling me they can not figure out the problem, unless it does the same thing while it is there. But I feel unsafe driving my car, due to the fact it can happen at any given time. What happens is while driving it, all of a sudden you can not accelerate, you can have the pedal to the floor and nothing maybe 5 miles is all I get. This has happened twice now, and both time I took in it. The second time it happened all I did was start the car up. NOw how would you feel if you were driving and all of a sudden this happened to you. What if I'm driving and it happens when I go make a turn, and bam I get hit. Again this sucks and piss's me off. Oh yeah I only have 10,289 miles on it.
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I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber manual transmission. When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear, I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding" noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It's clearly an abnormal noise and noticeable but not obnoxious. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd (although it seems that maybe at higher rpms in 2nd gear I begin to notice it coming, though maybe it's my imagination), but the second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive, but I don't notice any other weird noises or problems with the car and the clutch feels good. I haven't been able to find any leaking anywhere underneath the car. It has approx. 92,000 miles and is a 1.8 liter 4-cylinder. I've spoken with a few folks and I've been given the following ideas:
1) bad clutch/assembly (replace clutch kit)
2) bad throwout bearing
3) bad bearing inside transmission associated with 3rd,4th,5th gear rod (?)
4) low transmission oil, 3-5 gears not oiled enough and causing noise
5) maybe nothing to do with transmission at all?
I plan on taking the transmission apart this week with a mechanically-inclined friend of mine and if I have a good idea of what it could be, that may save us a lot of time by not having to take unnecessary things apart (ie. tranny vs bellhousing).
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So I own a Dodge Caliber 2007 and it has about 170K miles. This car has been through a lot of trips from IN to PA and many other long trips. A few months ago it started to sound very odd. It's a four cylinder and it sounds like it is only running on three. I don't know too much about cars but the problems that it's facing is that sound for one, it is stuttering in a kind of way, like it's about to die. Also when I accelerate and make a sharp right turn it will start to die and will die on most occasions. This is very dangerous considering it has power steering and I can't maneuver when it does die. Also, I'm not sure if this is related at all, but the front left turn signal and the back right turn signal does not work. It isn't the lights as I have changed them 2 other times, I have been told it might be the computer module but I'm not sure.
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My 2010 Dodge Caliber has been leaking anti-freeze very slowly. I notice it when I start the car up and for the first minute I can actually smell the antifreeze coming through the vents when I have the air on. If I park the car and go in to the grocery store for a few minutes and start it up again the smell doesn't re-occur. I imagine I have a leak somewhere that is dripping onto the engine and when the car starts up from cold it burns it which is sending that smell through my vents.
I was told a while ago it could be the heater core, however I would assume that if it was the heater core I would have had a fog up on my window or a constant smell, not one that dissipates after a minute.
I had this problem last year except I was losing a lot of antifreeze (about a whole reservoir in 3 - 4 days. The problem was found to be a broken clamp on one of the hoses. This time however I cannot find any broken clamps or a source of the leak for that matter. I did notice that when I shut the car off the one time, and checked under the hood of the car I seen one air bubble spring up from the reservoir tank. I cannot see any signs of a leak from under the hood. However under the car I can see it is dripping from the frame, but not where it is coming from.
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When we first bought our white 2013 GT used (21K kms) it made a slight moaning sound when you would start off from a stop while engaging the clutch. Dealer was able to replicate and diagnosed it as a bad clutch release bearing. Replaced it and moaning sound was gone. Free under warranty. Been fine ever since and car is now at 75k kms.
I just drove our other GT (black 69k kms) for the first time in ages as normally another family member drives it. I immediately noticed the same moaning sound when starting from a stop and releasing the clutch. I'm betting it's the same bearing. Is this a common issue?
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
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Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
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What causes a click in the engine when you start your car or when you accelerate at times. I have a 2007 ES350. I have 157,000 miles and it runs great.
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My 09 LS w/ 65k on it wont start. last night i drove the car around to several places, and on my last stop of the day i couldnt get the car to start. finally after several tries, it fired right up. but today, no such luck.
All the lights come on (and I have charged my batery with a tender to be sure its not the battery), the steering wheel moves in to position, and I either get a click, or a buzzing sound.
Sounds like starter, any other opinions?
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So my wife's 2007 Camry just got a new battery a week or two ago. The other day she goes into the garage to her car to find it dead, with no power to the locks (had to use key instead of FOB), no accessories, no dash lights and no dome light. When she tried to start the vehicle it gave her a single click, did not crank and did not start.
Initially I approached it from the perspective that maybe the alternator was not charging the battery, so I charged the battery with my portable charger. The battery charged fast and checked out okay.
I then used the key FOB to unlock the door. Adjusted the electric seat to better fit me. The dome light came on. I also checked to see the head lights came on. I turned the ignition to start and I got a single click. Tried it again and got no feedback. The dome light was no longer lit and no other accessories worked. All of the power seemingly drained following the attempt to start.
Now I am wondering if the starter is shorting out or if something more mysterious in the electrical system is malfunctioning in a way that I have never faced before...
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