Dodge - Caravan :: When Put Into Gear, Doesn't Move And Revs Like In Neutral Then Jump Abruptly
Nov 20, 2013
Caravan acting like it was in neutral when she put it into gear and then jumping abruptly. She solved the problem by turning it off and back on. I think her problem might be the Speed Sensor b/c my Ford Taurus did the same thing for years: When put into gear, doesn't move and revs like in neutral, then suddenly jumps into gear sometimes. Problem could sometimes be solved by turning it off and on or moving gear shift to park and then back to drive. Also, even after warming up, when starting from a stop it would stay in 1st gear and not shift up, then suddenly shift up and car would jerk forward. Sometimes when it wouldn't switch gears the RPMs would remain high, even on highway. We thought we needed a new transmission! We found on line that it might be the speed sensor, which lets the car know what speed you are going. We switched it out and all the problems disappeared!
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So tonight my wife got off work at 7pm, she gives me a call and tells me she is on the side of the road. I was like wtf, what happened....anyways long story short I drive 30 miles out, by that time tow truck just arrived and flat beds the passat wagon to dealership.
So what my wife told me she got off work, drove about 2-3 miles down the road and then lost power and she pretty much came to a stop. Then she called me. Then tow truck came and towed it it dealer.
So issues I noticed, car starts fine, no engine lights on, but when you put in any gear, drive, reverse, sport mode etc. car does not move at all and engine just revs up. I'm think thing torque converter or something but really have no clue. Anyways tow truck tows car to dealer I start back up car and for f same car has power again can go forward, can go backwards! Yeah right, so I said let me see if I can drive around the block, so get in car start driving and then the power starts to fade and only drives about 100 feet before the lack of power happens and start to come to a stop. I did notice some slight grinding noise but by that time I wasn't moving anymore.
So we park in an open spot(had to push the beast) and then went home and here I sit and type my problem. What is going on and why all of a sudden without any notice this would happen. It has been a great car for us and we just had it in the dealer on Tuesday for oil change and they said everything looks good besides your rear pads are getting low... This just really sucks and couldn't of happened at a worse time. Just don't understand why the 2.0t transmission would do this all of a sudden. I pray that we don't need a new one replaced.
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When I drive through large puddles, or in the rain, my car doesn't turn. I believe this may be because my Splash Guard is missing.
I keep looking online to get a replacement, and they have one that looks exact, and another I have no clue if this would be the same or if it is a different piece all together.
The picture attached at 1.jpg is the one that looks exactly as the one that is gone from my car.
The second, is the one that I keep finding when I type in replacement splash guard.
Can this one be a proper substitute?
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The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
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The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
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This morning my 2011 Camry LE won't start. Based on looking at car manual I think the 'Engine Immobilizer System' is still engaged and perhaps not recognizing my key, neither of them since I tried the spare as well. The instrument panel stays black and I can not turn the key or even move the gear shift into Neutral.
Any way to fix this without calling for a tow? So.... found out the problem! The steering wheel was angled slightly. With key in the ignition we jerked the steering wheel slightly and it released the ignition and was able to start.
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when cold motor reves high when in gear and car doesn't want to go very fast. after car warms up runs fine. doesn't do this in the summer. just winter.
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I had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
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I'm working with some family members who have a 97 Bonneville with the 3800 supercharged and approaching 300,000 miles. It already has a rebuilt engine and transmission.
Just recently when putting the car in gear it sounds like it goes in gear (the engine rpms settle down) but the car doesn't move. Under the hood I can see the arm that shifts the transmission. It moves normally and appears to engage the transmission properly, but the car just doesn't move.
It doesn't do this all the time, but it does it about 90% of the time. The other 10% it goes it gear and drives just fine.
Today while testing a little more we put it in drive and it didn't want to go, but with the RPMs up around d 3,000 the car creeped forward a couple feet and stopped.
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My van went from drive to 3rd gear while i was driving. and now its stuck in 3rd gear. its a 98 dodge caravan. i checked the transmission fluid it was full. how do i fix it?
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
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The starter in my '93 Dakota was dying (usual signs of worn brushes) so I replaced it with a new one from AutoZone. The starters looked the same, and after calling back to double check the part #, the store swears it's the right part. However, when I engage the starter, it spins but the pinion gear doesn't engage the flywheel. I can't see how I could have installed it wrong - the two bolts seem to have only one place they can go.
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My mechanic and friend noticed my axle was starting to fail about a few weeks ago and Ive just been waiting to get it taken care of when I have time. Last night my battery died and I got a jump start. After the jump I get in and drive down the street a little ways and notice the ESP light came on. She was also running a little rough at idle and I started getting nervous. So instead of getting my Micky Dees I turned around and went home. Of coarse this happens at 3am the night before I have to open up at work at 11.. This mourning I get in the car and warm her up to see how shes acting. I decided to still drive her because I had no other option. The MIL light popped on now too and I think its related to my axle failing. So im wondering I guess how much longer I have til this thing completely goes and what would happen if it went while I was driving? Ive never had to replace an axle before or and an issue with one so this is a subject I know very little about. Also is it worth it to get RAXLES for stock?
So after my battery died like I said I got a jump start from my buddy and after I jumped it the car seems to rev at idle now. Freaked me out! Would all the sudden start revving to 2k rpm and then stop. When I drove it to work almost every time I stopped it would rev a little bit but when I gas it it would stop. After doing research there are a few conclusions I have reached. First I read it could be a throttle body sticking? Then I read the jump start could have fried my ecu or it could be a simple as a loose wire to the motor from a bypass valve?
Im not sure if the jump start did anything bad. Its possible its a coincidence still but my car was fine before the jump. Also on a side note my ecu was already flashed when I purchased the car. The flash is from EIP I believe because there is a eip sticker on the battery case. Personally I think the MIL light is related to the axle but the weird idling is what scares me.
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My wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
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So I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
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1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination.
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
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I have a 2003 Jetta Gli with a VR6 manual transmission 6 speed. So the other night I am pulling into this store parking lot and all of a sudden my car is just rolling its still in gear and running but when i push on the gas it just revs the motor i thought i was in neutral for a second but I wasn't so I jump out and push it into a parking spot.
Car is running but when i put it into gear and let off the clutch it just revs. so i have i towed to my house it was late so i decided to look in the morning.
So I go out the next day its still the same only now when i let off the clutch it just dies. I'm not an auto mechanic expert by any means any car work i have done is just self taught as needed diving in and figuring it out myself.
I did do the Cv axle on the passenger side last year i bought the one from O' Reilly auto parts. I know its the cheap one and probably a no no. Could this be my cv axle? Did my clutch go out? It moves through all the gears except reverse when the clutch is depressed. Could it be my transmission?
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My wife has been using her mom's 07 Accent, the mom is 90 and hasn't been incapable of using it for a while now. I did an oil change (without paying much attention) I've never seen this type of car before. Oddly the oil level seemed outrageously over full and still dirty
Then upon driving it the automatic transmission was all wacky, not engaging at idle, then it abruptly chunking into gear...
So I check the transmission fluid level and it's not on the stick. Research here let me know SP-III is what I'd need. Then while surfing a youtube vid regarding this model's transmission it hit me in the face, I'd drained the automatic transmission fluid! Went to the Kia dealer got 3 quarts dumped it in there, drained the overfilled 5.5 quarts of old and new oil rectifying my mistake, which brings me to the reason for this post.
This 2007 car only has 24,300 miles on it and I mistook the automatic transmission fluid for outrageously dirty engine oil! I swear this stuff looks like it's fulla carbon black n burnt up. My question: is it normal for the trans-fluid to have such a degraded appearance in only 25,000 miles?
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Got 99 Grand with a issue. It'll run fine then you come to a stop light and it'll die. try to start it and it'll rev to 2000 rpm then drop to almost nothing then rev again then die. It may do this once or 2-3 times. If you keep your foot on brake and give it gas you can keep it running put it still revs. Once at highway speeds it runs normal. When you get home or wherever and shut it off for awhile it'll start and run normal. Had it in shop twice. No codes. Replaced pvc valve and hose, fuel filter. They said start replacing stuff till it stops. I don't go there anymore. Another shop said unless it does it for them they wouldn't know where to start. Of coarse every time it does it, by the time I get it to shop it runs fine. I can do brakes, axle shafts, bearings but electronic fuel injection stuff still baffles me.
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When I rev my engine while the car is parked or stopped in neutral it revs up like normal. If I am cruising down the road and drop it into neutral and try to rev up the motor its sluggish and the rpms don't want to climb as quickly.
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