Have a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
View 2 RepliesThe parking lights come on, the turn signal lights work, the interior lights and high beams work. Could it just be a fuse or two? Dodge Dakota 4WD 2002 ...
View 3 RepliesI have a 02 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter that is killing me. No codes and no check engine light. From a cold start it starts fine but then runs rough. If I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off and try to restart it, it is very hard to start. Also, if I have it running and rev the engine above 3k rpm and let go of the gas it dies. It will idle without holding the gas pedal down but will die after a rev. Fuel pressure and volume are right in spec. Have good compression, spark and injector pulse on all cylinders. I thought maybe a crank or cam position sensor, but either of those would usually throw some type of code. I thought IAC but it seems to be functioning properly.
View 3 RepliesI was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
I have an 2002 Dodge Dakota 8 cyl. 4.7 L engine, 272K. I've gone through 4 fan clutches in the last 2 years and could have gone through more. My mechanic can't figure out why. I've replaced all hoses, radiator, water pump, T-stats, you name it. AC doesn't work either. Probably just a leak. Not sure yet. Why they keep dying on me.
View 19 RepliesMy 2002 Dakota with a 3.9 (200,000 miles)has a problem that I cannot seem to cure.When I start the engine it never hesitates....it starts without a problem. No excess cranking...it fires up as it always did.It does run a bit rough as if ONE cylinder is missing every few revolutions. If I let it idle in the driveway for five minutes it will clear up and run fine. But if I take off right away the following will happen.I put it in gear (automatic) and for the first mile or two it runs as though the plug wires (More than one) are wet and arcing. I can barely get above 25mph. it will spit and sputter for that first mile or two.
Then suddenly it will clear up and surge....probably because I have loaded the system with excess fuel......and after it clears up , I have no other problems with it weather I'm on a long trip or a short one. If I stop for more than 15minutes, I have to go thru all this again.I've had vehicles that acted like this after a hard rain because the plug wires were old and arcing...that's why I use that as a description.I also noticed that the other day right at the end of a big downpour it took at least 5 miles to clear up.
Before this rainstorm I had replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, while inside the shop so everything should have been bone dry except for all the humidity from the storm. After starting I checked for any arcing while in the dark shop and even moved a few wires that were touching and no arcing was seen from the cap, wires or coil. I also changed out all those parts 6 months ago when I did a major tune up, but it ran fine untill about two months ago.
When this started two months ago is was just a rare occurrence and my mechanic thought that I had gotten some gas with water in it. He had me run a few bottles of injector cleaner it the next few fill-ups and I've run a few bottles of heet through it also. In the last two weeks it has been doing this every time I start up. When this did start showing up it would show a code of a random misfire and the engine light would come on even though I felt no signs of a misfire myself. The light would stay on for a day or two then go back off. A few days later it was back on.I thought that I fixed the problem because the light stayed off for a month.
So it has been only the last two weeks that it bucks and kicks so bad at a startup, but you would think that an engine misfire would show up and the engine light come on. By the way the light does work. Now, I never get a engine light on, and he found no codes in the history. I have my own scanner, but his can do so much more. I never find any codes also. My mechanic ran some diagnostic's and found an up-stream 0,2 sensor bad so we replaced that.
Yesterday I dropped the tank, pulled the pump and cleaned the tank real good. The only filter is the sock on the pump and that was clean. I refilled with fresh gas and I still have the same problem. So I think that we can eliminate water in the fuel, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. My next thought is the cam sensor in the distributor.
I purchased a 2002 Dakota and have had a hard time ridding it. I thought that the heater core was leaking and getting the passenger side floor wet, but it's the overflow for the evaporator under the dash. The drain must be plugged. Will I have to remove the dash to pull the heater unit down far enough to clean it. I don't think I can do much from under the hood...too tight.
View 4 RepliesThis Dakota has the 3.9 with about 240.000 miles. New battery and Alternator within the last 18 months.
The other day after driving about 12 miles the chime "Check Gauges" come on and I noted that the voltage gauge on the dash was buried at Max.Pulled over shut off the truck and popped the hood. No visible problems. Got back in, started the engine and the gauge went back to it's normal position. I had expected to see smoke from the alternator or the battery blown to pieces from the overload. I also noted that there was no excess heat at the alternator or battery.
I picked up my DVM from the shop to carry along and have driven at least 5 trips over 15 miles since. Today the same problem occurred, but by the time I pulled into a close-by parking lot the meter went back to normal. I checked the voltage at the battery and had 13.25 volts with the engine off and 14.40 volts with the engine running. I drove another 40 miles with no problems.
Tomorrow I plan to run a lead from the battery into the cabin, so I can monitor the voltage quicker if the problem reappears.
After I drive my truck and park it for any period of time and then restart the truck it will sputter and backfire rpms do not go over 1500-2000. If I put it in neutral and rev the engine this will work but not always correct the issue. Eventually if I just push through it after 2 or 3 min it will go back to normal. I replaced the spark plugs, wiring and distributor cap. I have also changed the O2 sensors nothing seems to work though.
View 6 RepliesMy 2002 Dodge Dakota Extended Cab pickup is throwing several different 02 sensor codes. The first one was P0132. I reset the CEL and it ran good for about 1800 miles (100,140) on the odometer now. Now I'm getting a P0158 code and CEL went off after a few miles. Now it's back to a P0135 and P0138 code. Are the 02 sensors really bad or is there an underlying problem with the wiring or the computer. The truck runs like new when the CEL is off. The P0132 has never shown up again. The engine is the 3.9 V6 and is 2WD.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 V6 Dodge Dakota that just recently lost pretty much all power. It will not go above 20 mph and has a hard time going up any hills. I was driving on the interstate and initially was having a hard time reaching 65 mph. The truck would roar and then shift and then lose power and shift down a gear. Eventually it lost almost all power and is now barely drive-able. It makes a sound like an ATV at low speeds, kind of a deep humming sound. When I punch the gas in neutral in makes the same sound. I have had problems with it stalling before and am at a complete loss as to the cause.
View 2 RepliesThere is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
View 3 RepliesLast year, July, replaced Trans.modulator..All went well. Now..sloppy shifting, occasion heavy thump changing gears when slowing. Trans. people say All good according to their programs.....but they also feel the same problems. Its an internal problem, they say, too expensive to tear down.Drive it until it dies. ( 161 K on the odometer.....otherwise is perfect. I want to do a flush, then drop the pan, change the screens, tighten the bands and replace Trans. fluid.
View 1 RepliesQuestion regarding a 2002 Dodge Dakota, 2wheel drive ext cab 100,000 miles 6 cylinder engine. Cruise control stopped working, get the indicator light on dash, but no cruise.
Would I start with the Clock Spring? Will Durango parts interchange? ABS Light, was told the problem is the main unit that mounts on the driver side fender. Have tried replacing with other units from the local scrap yard, but still get warning lights/sounds.
i have a 2002 accent 4 door and it's stuck in park, its an automatic. I removed the park override little cover thingy next to the shifter and released it out of park but when I put it back in it got stuck again.
View 5 RepliesTook my car in to get the tire and headlight replaced. Not my usual mechanic. While they were in there, they took it upon themselves to open up the filter and root around the throttle body. They said it was heavily gunked up, and asked to clean it. The car has been having serious starting issues, so this made sense to me, so I overlooked them examining a part of the car that had nothing to do with what I'd asked them to repair, and told them to go ahead.
Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. Now he says there are scratches in it, he suspects from a mouse or rodent. Says it needs to be replaced, but he couldn't source a part today. Either way, I can't afford that. Says it's fine to drive, though.
Whatever they did, the car is now worse. Engine revs up high in park or when I start the car, and then drops dow and keeps revving rhythmically while idle. And I swear that while in drive, it's running faster even with my foot off the gas, and not dropping out of higher gears as fast. I go back and confront the mechanic. He says yes, that's all because of those scratches. But I don't understand how before, when it still had these scratches, WASN'T clean, when it was, in his words, all gunked up, it was working BETTER than it is now, when it's clean and just has those scratches?
I have a 2002 Camry with (440K Kms) and automatic transmission. I am the second owner and had this car since 130K Kms so I have been driving it for a while. The car was in great condition but recently, the transmission started to give some trouble where it's gear changes were not smooth. Also, when I would come to a complete stop, trany would go into neutral even though I have not touched the gear shifter and it is still in drive.
I had my mechanic drain and fill transmission fluid since it was a bit dirty. A few days later, the car would park with gear box in "P" but no matter which gear I would put the gear shifter into, it would remain in neutral and won't pick up into any gear at all. So, I parked the car on the driveway. Couple of days later I wanted to try to see what the issue was and now, no matter what gear I put the gear shifter into, it stays into park.
I've recently purchased an 02 Envoy from an auction. There are a couple of issues. The main one started last night. While at the store I put the truck in park and turn off the ignition. The ignition will not go into the lock position. I messed with the key and go it to turn off. Then started the truck to leave and couldn't put the truck in gear. I messed with the shifter and was able to put into gear.
At that point the gear shifter would move from park to reverse without me pushing the break pedal. I drove home and could not turn the key all of the way off again. Moved gear selector from 1st to Park a few times and then was able to remove the key. I restarted the truck and could not move the gear selector again; however I was able to remove the key easily.
I am leaning towards replacing the "Neutral Safety Switch" on the tranny but with my symptoms, I've seen brake light switch, ignition, and solenoid at gear shift selection.
Back up lights do not work either. Since I purchased the truck, I've replaced,
-Battery
-Ignition Coil
I have a 2002 Durango 2WD about 115000 miles. I have steering noise and some play. I can hear the noise when the truck is park and move the wheel from side to side about an inch. I had the upper ball joints replace, outer tie-rods and wheel bearings some time ago. Could this be the gear box. I now this trucks are notorious for ball joint problems if it says Durango in the back yeah your ball joins are bad. At the moment I am parking the truck and have it check over the weekend.
View 2 Replies97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
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