Dodge - Neon :: 2000 - Knocking Sound When Get On Gas A Bit Harder Than Normal From A Dead Stop
Aug 16, 2010
I have a 2000 neon, a knocking sound has started only when I get on the gas a bit harder than normal from a dead stop. It seems to last only a few seconds knock knock really fast and then its gone, does not sound like engine knock (rocker knock or persistent knock) more like a mechanical noise. Where to start ? Front breaks were done 4months ago, new rotors / pads / and 1 caliper ...
Seems it to be worse now....now starting to lean towards broken motor mount ... how to check or where to find them. Also now starting to hear while braking.
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I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
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My 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
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I noticed a knocking sound from my 1996 Plymouth Neon when I hit some bumps. Poked my head underneath and see what appears to be the strut loose inside the spring. I am afraid that the "Damper Shaft Nut" came undone somehow? If so, how do I remove the quick-strut? Is the spring in danger of being sprung?
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1995 dodge neon... When I turn the car off, it burps, or bubbles air into the overfill tank. Car now also overheats when idling or in stop and go traffic. Temperature goes down when running heater.Not sure if it is the water pump or an issue with the radiator.
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2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
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2000 Dodge Neon clacking noise at low rpm after releasing gas pedal. Around the 2000 rpm range letting off the gas produces a clacking noise. I have listened to the engine with a long screwdriver at idle and revving. The noise is not always present in this condition. Although when it has come up it seams to coming from behind the engine. Does not seem to be valves, connecting rod or main bearings etc.... Only at low rpm 1200 thru 2000 rpm WHEN releasing the throttle. Clacking seams to be timed with the crankshaft as it reduces the sound as the engine reduces rpm, not at the speed of the cams. Sounds fine at idle, going through gears and at freeway rpm's.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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I have had my car sitting for about 2 weeks and I had ah problem with my car were my nuts came off while I was driving some how when I pulled over the car was wobbling I had 2 bolts left holding the tire on. I had gotten my car towed to my house and had new prongs and bolts put on my car since then but now when I try to drive or move the car it only moves maybe 1 foot forward and maybe the same amount of feet backwards... What this problem may be I tired to turning the steering wheel while pushing it backwards but nothing works... It's like when I'm trying to move it I'm bumpin into something or I have ah block behind the tire that's keeping it from moving.
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I have a 2000 Neon with about 170K miles on it. with in the last 2 weeks it has been having a problem with acceleration. When i start to drive the RPMs will get up to 4 before it will start to move. Also when i am drive and need to pick up speed the RPMs will also go up to about 4 before it starts to pick up speed, but will drop back down when the speed goes up. I have found a little oil in the spark plug tubes and will be changing the seals out, and I have cleaned to MAP sensor as will. What is going on with my acceleration.
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I'm having Dodge Neon 2000 manual transmission. Suddenly the reverse gear stopped working (others working). I got it towed to my regular mechanic (used to charge comparatively lower than other local shops) and he said one of the shifter cable is broken and other one is stretched. Need too replace them. Is it worth it? (It's an old car and recently I've been spending a lot on this).
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Ever since installing my Joe Z axle back exhaust.I get a popping sound when coming to a stop, especially if decelerating harder. I know this type of thing happens to bikes when you don't get them tuned after but I haven't read anything about Tuning the Lex. Is this normal? Are other guys with the aftermarket exhaust and intake having this same sound at times?
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As I accelerate, there is a humming noise that comes from the transmission area of the car. It does not make the noise when I am in idle, nor if i put the transmission in neutral and rev the engine.
When driving slow the noise is very subtle. As I accelerate faster the noise gets louder. The noise becomes the loudest at 60 mph. Above 60 it seems to calm down some. The noise is like a constant, deep humming sound. The noise gets softer as I slow down and then is gone when at idle again. To me it seems related to the speed of the tire or the CV half shafts turning or something rubbing in the transmission as the car goes faster. However the sound doesn't change when the transmission shifts. It stays constant and only gets louder as I go faster and then softer as I slow down.
While driving and turning hard to the left the sounds almost disappears until the car straightens out again. I have replaced the struts on all four wheels and this seems to only have caused the sound to get louder. I have also inspected the CV joints. There doesn't seem to be any cracks or signs of wear to all 4 joints. And I repacked the bearings.
The only other things I can think of is the cv half shafts are actually bad and need to be replaced. Or the motor mounts are not aligned/worn out and need to be replaced. Or the kickdown band and low reverse band on the transmission need to be readjusted. Or the transmission is has a problem (however it doesn't slip when driving).
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My Neon has this strange problem and I can't figure it out neither can my mechanic. Mainly when I'm making a left hand turn there is a knock sound underneath the car, like I can almost feel something jerking up underneath my pedals. And then after making the left hand turn and then accelerating... my car would almost feel like it was stuck to the left and jerk itself straight again.
NOTE: I have replaced/checked the Lateral and Radius Bushings, Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar and I also recently got new rims and tires which at that point I got an alignment. But nothing has worked so far and I'm at a loss.
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I'm just starting to break in a new 2010 Passat and I hear some slight "knocking" noises at low RPMs during acceleration. It's only got 500 miles on it, so I am assuming it's just a characteristic of these engines; however, I've never owned a VW before so I don't know what is normal. this sound is typical for VW 2.0s? I think I have the PZEV version if that makes a difference.
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Today I noticed a knocking sound coming from what sounds like the front left (drivers side). When I accelerate and when I brake the sound stops. The sound also stops when I am going around a bend in the road as well as when I change lanes. When I am turning a corner I do not hear the sound.
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The car is manual, 95.000 KM. The problem is everytime i put the car in gear and start rolling, I hear a loud thump/clunk coming from the underside of the engine.
The only mods on the car are intake, a tune and a dog bone insert. The clanking is way more apparent when i'm in reverse. Whether i'm backing out of my uphill driveway or on a flat surface, EVERYTIME the car is at a dead stop and I give it throttle, something clanks...
My mechanic had lifted the car. He thought it might have been suspension, but he ruled that out. He believes that it is in fact the dog bone insert that is faulty. Upon further inspection, the red insert (from USP I believe) had cracked. although the insert was visibly broken (I've had it for barely 5000 km's, WTF) I'm not entirely sure that that is what's making the clunking sound because that sound was there from before I had put the dog bone insert in place.
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I have just bought a 2000 Passat 30valve V6, from a dead stop when I accelerate it makes a weird "thud" sound and feeling under my feet, almost like when you have a broken tranny mount on a chevy. I have been told that it is the "TPS" or throttle body?? It does not do this shifting into any other gear.
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I had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
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I have a 2001 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 2.2 liter, automatic transmission, 163Kmiles on it.
I'm hearing what sounds to me rather like a grindy sound at around 1400-1600 RPM. Initially the Camry seemed to do it only after getting into 2nd gear at about 10MPH, but now i see that it is associated with RPM and not the gear so much (the noise is less frequent and less loud in 2nd and 3rd gear- not noticing it ever at above that). I should say that the Camry has been making lots of noises since a new exhaust was put in by a cheap Bosnian shop.
It seems to only make that particular grindy noise when starting from a dead stop, but not if i was already coasting at all. So far as i can tell it seems to only happen about half the time- if I'm accelerating very slowly it doesn't seem to happen much. If i start climbing a hill after a dead stop it seems to come on fairly reliably.
It does not seem to make the noise when passing down through 1600 RPM while slowing down or revving down.
When i started the Camry up today, the noise cropped up well before i got to 8MPH (where it typically shifts into 2nd gear). Which is to say the noise appeared before it even started to shift out of 1st gear.
If i stay in Drive or Reverse and apply the brake so as to not go anywhere, the noise generally starts around 1600RPM. Since the car isn't moving, i think this might rule out the transmission. I hope.
However when in Neutral or Park and i bring the engine up to 1600RPM and beyond, the noise does not appear. So that's perhaps not so good. Of course my car idles a lot better/smoother in N and P than it does in D or R. It's rather rough idling in D and R.
I'm hoping maybe it's a vibration issue- something like harmonic amplification- where something only rattles in a certain frequency range. I pulled up next to a brick wall, kept on the brake, went into D and got up near 1600RPM and the reflected noise does strike me more now as maybe being less a grindy noise and more of a rattly vibration.
The Bosnian shop who fixed up my exhaust were too quick to dismiss the noises i heard after they worked on it. I think maybe something is loose. I hope. (I could feel air leaving the flexpipe's woven area itself but don't know if this is normal.)
Going up hills increases the likelihood of the noise appearing (so i take this to be suggestive that it IS the transmission).
However on a flat road if i hit the gas to quickly get up to 1600RPM before I'm any where near auto shifting out of 1st gear, the noise also usually appears (so i take this to be suggestive that this is not the transmission). I've also gotten the noise to not appear until well into 2nd gear.
The fairly-repeatable noise appearing in the 1600RPM zone regardless of my gear position gives me some hope that the xmission is not the source of the noise. So on balance, i think there's some indication it's the transmission, but there's also evidence that the source is other than the transmission.
The noise does not occur in Neutral or Park while revving up to 1600RPM. But then too, the engine, exhaust and vibrations always seem considerably less in N or P, as opposed to being in Drive (or Reverse). Why my Camry is quieter and more smooth in N and P as opposed to D or R? In the latter two modes, i imagine the transmission is engaged? And that the transmission is unengaged in P and N? And would that make the car louder or vibrate more, at least under certain conditions? Is the engine under less load in P and N?
And are noises at certain RPMs in D or R, but not in P or N indicative of Transmission problems? I notice the shop overfilled the transmission fluid every time i've had it changed.
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Jeep 2000 Cherokee
So I have this thumping noise, almost sounds like something is loose.The noise occurs for a few seconds when I accelerate from a dead stop and then goes away, it returns when I slow down and almost come to a complete stop.The noise also goes away when I put her into 4wd.The thump/rattle sounds like it is coming from the center counsel area and directly under the floor board in the driver seat.My car changes gears smoothly up and down while driving.
I was told it might be a transfer case problem and that it might need to be rebuilt, which makes me worry.
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