Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Hard Downshifting / Jolt Forward A Little Bit
Apr 11, 2012
I purchased a 2012 Elantra Limited w/Tech last Wednesday and it has about 250 miles on it now. Downshifting is kind of hard. I've been driving with Eco mode on but have noticed the same thing w/o it on.
I'll get up to 45 mph and then let the car coast, every time the car downshifts a gear I feel it in the car. It causes me to jolt forward a little bit and is not very smooth. It shifts the same way while accelerating but then I don't really notice it b/c I'm speeding up.
It is annoying while just coasting b/c it feels like the car is braking a little every time it drops down a gear. Also, if it pushes me forward a little bit then the car probably is braking a little which seems kind of against the point of coasting...
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS... Few months back I refueled my tank with degraded fuel (of course i did not know about it and some refueling stations in our country mix oils) and the problems started to arise with my car.. initially it all started with jerks and cracking sounds from the engine.. I then took it to the dealership and cleaned everything except the injectors but the jerking and cracking problem was solved.. but it still had a pickup problem.. whenever i tried to accelerate from 40km/h to above, the transmission seems to give a jolt make a clicking sound when downshifting.. and the acceleration compared to before has degraded.. I took it to the dealership again and their answer was drive it for 300 km more everything will b fine.. but i have driven the car for 1000 km more but the problem is not solving.. I don't know.. my warranty period is over.. in our country they only provide for 12000 km or 1 yr warranty.. now i have checked online and it seems Elantra transmission has bugged a lot of ppl..
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I have a Gen III Prius 2010 with about 50k on it. I've noticed over the past month that when the ICE shuts down at a stoplight, the car will surge forward a bit. If my foot isn't on the brake really hard, it will translate to the car actually moving forward until the ICE is totally off. If my foot is on the brake hard, you can feel it push against the brakes, and then the car settles back in place. It doesn't happen every time, so it still takes me by surprise.
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Had problem with downshifting and up shifting quickly on its own and then engine light came on. 24,400 mi. Code P0713 Trans Temp Sensor "A" Circuit Input. They replaced it in a few hours and we will see how it goes. Had also had a problem of acceleration by its self when we first bought it and the gas mileage not being to par. Of course they said they haven't heard of that and they did an update/flash and haven't had that problem again, also had a broke front axle.
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I don't know if this is related, but my car has not shifted as well as it did before I gave it my oil change. The car only has 3K miles, new Hyundai oil filter, and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-20.
It's not a major dip in performance, but enough for me to know its different. One example is when I come to a stop, the car seems to surge forward a little bit. Another is that is shifts hard from time to time when I give it gas.
Going uphill, it just doesn't have the power like it did. Also, it feels that it's not in the right gear..like 5th or 6th gear. It's hard to describe the symptoms. The weird part is that the MPG is the higher than normal.
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My 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
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I have purchased a 2012 Elantra for my wife and I have noticed a fairly significant vibration/shaking when making hard right turns. It is most noticeable during medium to hard sweeping right turns at speeds between 30-45 mph. Strangely enough I have no left turn issues at all and do not notice any vibrations at or above highway speeds. We did hit a pothole on the right side with both front and rear tires making impact a few months ago around 55mph but there is no noticeable wheel or tire damage. I did take the car to a Hyundai dealership after noticing this issue and they did not have any issues or find anything wrong (just my luck). I am thinking of rotating the tires to the other side to see if anything changes. Also I should add I am sure this is not an ABS or stability control issue because I can hit the same corner in the opposite direction at greater speeds without any issues.
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I just purchased this car & thought there may be a learning curve to dealing with the brakes, but I think it may be abnormal.
When braking, I apply more & more pressure smoothly down on the brakes, but no matter how evenly, slowly, and smoothly I try to remain when braking, there is a point when it abruptly brakes to jolt the passengers forward and make me look like a terrible driver, lol. It provides for a smooth decline in speed until I'm almost stopped, then it does it. Jerks us to a stop. So I've learned to apply even pressure and right before that is about to occur, lift up on the brakes and restart that slow pressure to avoid it happening.
I can deal with this because it's not that big of an inconvenience once I've gotten used to it, but I am just worried it may turn into something more or who knows, could be an easy fix. I had the car inspected by a Toyota dealership before I purchased it, and they said that everything was in great condition aside from windshield wipers. It has 81,000 miles, one owner, clean carfax.
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I purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
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The downshifting while braking is very obvious during braking, I can literally feel the gearshifts going down from 5th Gear to 1st as I brake. I have driven a wide range of cars but haven't experienced this earlier. Is there any modification that can be done or added to change this and make it smoother like usual cars?
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So I just purchased my new-to-me, CPO 2010 RX 350 two weeks ago. It had 81,750 miles when I purchased it, and it now has about 83,000 miles. I just came back from a weekend vacation, having driving about 500 miles total. This morning when I turned on the car, I noticed a message saying "Check AWD System," the check engine light was on, the general warning light was on, and the traction control light was on. As I was driving, I realized that the car wasn't downshifting properly. I didn't drive faster than 40 mph on my morning commute. When the car did downshift, it was a hard, jerky shift.
I did some reading on the forum, and many people suggested all the warning lights could be fixed by taking off and retightening the gas cap (due to the vehicle not reading the emissions properly or something?). I also read that topping off and overfilling the gas tank can be cause for the warning lights to go on. I did fill up once on my way home from my vacation, and haven't filled up since.
Anyways, I just now tried to adjust the gas cap and then restart the car, but the warning lights are still on. What I should do or if I should drive it a bit to let the emissions build up again? My problem is is that I live about 6 hours from a Lexus dealership, so I'm trying to figure out if I can resolve this on my own or what I should tell a mechanic specifically if I need to take it in.
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I have a '05 V8 T-Reg (loaded with Air, NAV, and the like) and have the local VW dealership perplexed. The problem is when I am going up a hill and slowing down. While downshifting the T-Reg lunges forward while moving from 4th to 3rd gear or 3rd to 2nd. The car jumps forward and the engine revs. If I don't have my foot on the brake I would smack into the person in front of me.
Initially, the dealership (Day Imports, Monroeville, PA) determined it was the valve stems and replaced them (after keeping the car for 4 days). The problem came back and now (going on 6 days in the shop) they cannot find a solution. They tried a new shifter plate but the problem still exists. I'm waiting to hear back from the service manager about what VWoA should try next.
The T-Reg has 72k miles on it...
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I have the not-so-uncommon grinding brakes problem too. In my case, however, there is a scarier difference: if I have to stop suddenly and hit the brakes hard, I hear the grinding and the car kind of shakes, but then as the car is decelerating, I will actually get the feeling that the brakes have totally disengaged, and the car will lurch forward! If I then depress the brakes quickly, they will engage again and stop the car. I've had a couple of close calls in heavy traffic when cars in front of me have stopped suddenly.
I guess that the grinding might be the ABS, but I've never heard of ABS causing your brakes to konk out completely! It's to the point where I'm scared to drive the car if I know there's going to be much traffic. I bought this Elantra last October to have a nice new car to drive my 6 and 4 year old around, so I'm very unimpressed, and scared, with the whole situation.
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I'm experiencing a weird problem with my 09 Santa Fe (just under 15k miles). A few times, while in slow and heavy traffic (and ONLY then) I experience a hard jolt or jerk. The 1st time it happened I thought someone had hit me in the rear but that was quickly ruled out.
I suspect this has something to do to do with the tranny. Though it occurs maybe once or twice monthly, I am beginning to have concerns and suspect that the problem will get worse with time.
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This has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD 155k miles. Car has been incredibly trouble free until now. When the transmission up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd there is a hard jolt. All other up-shift and down-shift points work smooth. Occasionally will shift smooth just after I start the car or if I am accelerating hard. The rough shift happens whether I am in D or use the "manual" shift control. This coincidentally(?) started just about the time I had a battery die hard and an O2 sensor fail. Both have been replaced. Changed the AT fluid and no difference. No engine codes, but I think the AT codes don't show there? What might be going on? Any chance the battery failure had anything to do with this? Seems odd that battery, O2 sensor and transmission all start acting up at the same time.
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I've got a 2006 Elantra with 102,xxx miles. When starting the car, especially a cold start, it ignition is rough, sometimes a jolt. It runs fine after that. What might be the issue? FYI, i replaced the spark plugs in August or so.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. I recently have been having issues with the transmission. When I'm in fourth gear, I will sometimes feel a sudden jolt, and then the rpms will go up, and the engine will seem to be working harder and be noisier. When I then come to a stop and then try to accelerate again, the acceleration is very slow, as if the car is still in a high gear. When I turn the car off and then on, the car accelerates fine again. Since then, I have put the car into overdrive off, and haven't had any problems. If the problem is in the fourth gear, could I just use overdrive off consistently and not fix the problem? Could that somehow cause more damage or be bad for the engine? I put about 50 highway miles on the car each day. But I only plan on doing so for the next ten months or so, then I will generally only be using it for short trips around the neighborhood.
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My car is downshfting kinda hard from 2nd to 1st I guess, it's just before I stop. What's causing this? It's a 2002 V6 4Motion.
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My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
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After posting about the smoke upon hard acceleration, some of you stated you had the motor checked for "low compression". So, my question is what symptoms was the car having for you to take it in for this diagnostic test?
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