Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Both Of Headlight Are Constantly Fogging Up
Jul 26, 2014
I traded in my 2009 Sonata for a 2012 Elantra Ltd recently and I have had an issue with the headlights, Both of them are constantly fogging up on the inside, Anytime there is rain, even light rain the headlights fog up. Especially when I wash the car, I was thinking about taking my car into the dealer and having them repair or provide me with new headlights.
I have read that the headlights are vented on the back but this does not make sense for them to leak like this.
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Having issues with the windshield constantly fogging up?
I love my car, but this is a large annoyance for me. It seems as though the heat is escaping from the engine bay and being ducted directly into the lower half of the windshield. I know it is occurring on the outside of the glass because I can wipe it off with the wipers, but it just keeps coming back. Sometimes, it's so bad that I can't even see the road...
I do have the APR Carbonio intake installed, and I'm wondering if the intake tube that parallels the windshield has a leak somewhere.
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I just bought a new 2010 Prius IV and noticed after a good rain that the front left headlight assembly was showing some moisture fogging inside the lens. None of the other light assemblies showed any moisture.
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Headlight fogging up after car wash or rain.
Driver side window seal folds over badly, wind noise is evident.
Passenger side lumbar broken .
And finally. The front jerk when applying brakes. It's not there in the morning, gets worse as you start driving, feels like strut bar bushings, but all of the control arms were changed in February. Having a tech join me for a ride to show this problem to him. I'm staring to think it's either caliper, or brake actuator.
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So I was looking around...I'd like to upgrade my headlights to Silverstars, PLUS change my amber turn signals out to white. Is this as easy as the 11-14's, or because I have different headlights, do I have to pull the entire assembly out?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai elantra GLS. I have a HID kit with a relay kit installed. It's been working just fine for 2 years now (2 years as of may) with no problems.
About two weeks ago my lights (hid low beams) wouldn't turn on right away. It would take multiple tries to get the lights to turn on. So I friend the usual methods....replacing the bulbs,replacing the ballasts,still the same issue.
So as of last night the passenger side light went out completely. I put in a new bulb,new ballast and still nothing. I bought a new relay kit (harness) and replaced it all and it still won't cut on the passenger side bulb!!!
So I went to check the fuses and there's no where in the fuse panel where it says low beams or headlights!! After reading I'm hearing it's in the smart junction box. In there is there a specific fuse for the right headlight? Do I need to replace the whole smart junction box? Where is the smart junction box?
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No matter what I do the front windshield keeps fogging up? I have to run the wipers all the time,if I stop them I cant see at all.What to do to get clear windshield? granted it has been very humid in new York lately.
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My 2010 Tiguan's windows are always fogging on the inside. When backing from garage, when getting in after sitting in a parking lot, temperature and humidity seem to make it worse, but it happens under all kinds of conditions. My Jetta sits right next to the Tiguan, and it rarely fogs up.
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This isn't about the condensation build up due to faulty headlights, but the plastic on the headlights seems to be "fogging" white quicker than any other car I've owned. Have this issue on their 2010 Prius? I've only had the car since February of 2010 and already in less than 4 years, the plastic housing is starting to fade white.
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I currently have a 2010 Hyundai elantra gls. And for the past couple of weeks. I've been having to constantly deal with my dashboard lights going out..causing my tail lights and passenger park light to go out as well. My fiance has replaced fuses every time. But it pops again.
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My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
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I bought this car new in 2010 and it's a level IV not Four as it is a 2010. I am about to replace my headlights for the 5th time after only having had these for about 3-4 months. The dealership says that things happen but I've never owned a vehicle where the headlights are constantly going out. The first 3 times that the headlights went out, the dealership replaced them. I replaced them this last time .
I don't believe it's the headlights as much as I feel that it has something to do with the car. They went out last night as I got into the car at night and when I switched on the lights, they flashed and went out. The high beams still work but the lows do not.
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So I'm about 10 mins from home today when the coolant low/overheating dash light (the key light) came on and started flashing. I got off the next exit and pulled into a Wal-Mart and notice I had no coolant when I lifted the hood. There was a strong coolant smell so I looked under the car and it was pouring out.
I got some more put in to get me home. I was 5 mins away and by the time I got home it was completely empty again. I can't see the leak looking from the top of the engine. When I look up it's coming out on the passenger side at the back of the firewall.
I filled it back up and just pulled the car into the garage. 7 hours later and the coolant is still full so it only happens when I'm driving. There was no oil present in the coolant leak. I pulled the oil dipstick and it looks normal, no milky color.
I'm having it towed to the local VW dealership tomorrow morning but just wanted to see what everyone's opinion on the issue might be.
Only 33K miles on the Tiguan The engine never ran hot. The needle was right in the middle the entire time. No engine mods other than a Chip, Intake, and Catch Can. I've yet to hear about either of those three mods causing this issue.
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Recently read some suggestion gliding using N, will constantly switching between N and D affect any component wear and tear?
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I have 2011 Prius Pck II. Racked up about 22k miles now is socal. Replaced one tire due to flat. From week 3, Ive had blinking tire pressure warning.. then it stays lit then goes away.
Dealer said they will reset and say the sensors are just sensitive. Well.. 22k miles of annoying problems continues to blink then stays lit, then goes away.
I think it is defected.. they don't want to admit it and replace for me.
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I have a 2010 F150 4.6 3V... The power steering reservoir is constantly losing fluid. I've purchased the truck,used, a few months ago, bought a warranty. The dealership has had it multiple times now and can't find the leak. They just keep replacing hoses and the problem keeps occurring. Also worth noting, the truck has 6" lift with 35s. I've have also pulled the radiator cap and found a decent amount of what looks to be sludge/oil inside. Dealership says it's probably just bad coolant.
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I noticed my left headlight on my 2009 Elantra was burnt out. I also noticed the left fog light was burnt out, but the brights and directionals are still fine. Do the fog lights only work if the headlight is working, or are they both needing replaced?
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I have a 2006 elantra. I just got it back from having a new clutch put in. My passenger side headlight, low beam, no longer works. I tried two different new bulbs and it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car are working, including the high beam and running light on the passenger side. Is there something that would have been disconnected when they replaced the clutch? Is there something I should check?
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The headlight on the driver's side has burned out, should i move the battery in order to get to the bulb?
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Looking for a rundown on LED versus halogen headlight bulbs, especially output and life? Stock halogen bulbs using 55 watts have a 4000K output, and I notice the Chinese imports' output is 3200-3500K. Does that translate into less bright? Also, the windshield wipers shudder across the windshield a lot unless there's a huge amount of rain--changing to new blades didn't make any difference.
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Replacing my HID bulbs, and I thought the the driver lens was just more scratched or rock pitted than the passenger.
However, it appears that their is some fogging or dust inside the lens. It doesn't seem to be actual moisture - it appears almost like a layer of dust or residue - perhaps it had moisture at one time that has evaporated or vented out.
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