Our 02 Elantra GT died and would not restart. When we tried jumping the battery, the car would not even attempt to turn over. What we did get was a noise from this part, which I cannot find labeled in any diagram that I've found, both in my owner manual and online.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
Another "no start" issue... The details:
- 2002 F250 7.3L
- Rosewood stage two single shot injectors (rebuilt 1 week ago).
- DP Tuner
- Brand new OEM IPR
- ICP about two months old (OEM)
- New UVH's installed about a month ago
The issue: After installing the injectors and driving about 30 miles the truck died and will not restart. Had to have it towed home. Thus far, I've unplugged the ICP, switched out the CPS with a known good, replaced the IPR, checked the hpop simply by removing the fill plug on the top of the reservoir and gave it a quick crank - oil definitely came pouring out, removed valve covers and plugs to verify oil in the high pressure rails. Oil dummy gauge climbs after about 5 seconds of cranking and seems to hold.
Hoping it's not an injector failure as I just had these reworked. EDIT: Forgot to mention, not seeing any white smoke while cranking. Fuel bowl, full of fuel and fuel pump was replaced this past spring. What to check next? Tried taking a snapshot from a video to show the readings. The ICP seems low, and when unplugged shoots up the 2500, but still no start.
My 01 4x4 F350CCD was having this "issue" where, after leaving it plugged in all night, I would start it up with no problems but then after idling for maybe 15-30 seconds it would just fade out and shut off. The first few times I would hit the key again and it would crank for an extended period but then refire and it would idle normally. Eventually I learned that if I held the idle up at around 1000 I could see the rpm drop slightly after starting but it wouldn't shut off.
About a week ago I started the truck and wasn't paying attention and didn't hold the throttle open and the truck shut off. This time after cranking it (probably way to much) it wouldn't start at all. I changed the fuel filter but that did nothing. I also notice that the tach does move to around 500 or so when cranking. I have not changed the CPS but a new one had been installed in May 2015. The engine is cranking but there is no white smoke or even attempt to fire.
I have a 2003 Elantra 2.0 with no spark, no codes... anymore. The car was driven about 6 miles, shut off, went back out to start it, it ran for 10 seconds then shut down. Now it will not restart.
What I did: As per some of the advice of others I replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil, check compression, pulled codes from the ecu with one being a crank sensor. I have power at the fuel pump during crank, i can smell gas during crank, plugs are dry just no spark. Timing belt and timing are fine, engine sounds as it should during crank but no spark. There is power at the coils, crank and cam sensors. MIL is on when key is turned and goes off during crank.
I have a used 2002 hyundai Elantra gt that I've owned since the 4th. I bought this car and everything was fine but I had to put a new battery in it because the previous owner was taking hers. A week after replacing the battery the car died, I thought maybe it was a bad battery so I replaced that one also and the car ran for about 2 days and then died again. I replaced the alternator last Monday and again the car ran until this past Thursday. I took the alternator back and had it tested and it failed. So I went to a different shop and had an alternator tested before purchasing it and it passed. Put the alternator in but the car won't stay on longer than 30 min.
View 5 RepliesWe purchased a used 2002 Prius from our brother-in-law's family and we're the third owners. The car has around 80K and we've owned it for about a month and a half. Before we picked the car up they took it to a dealer and checked it out. They put a new aux battery in the trunk, changed the oil and gave it the green light. We picked it up in Philadelphia and drove it home to Chicago.
Today my wife was returning from a trip down to Missouri. After a stop for gas and refreshments and just getting back on the interstate the car started to die. The warning lights came on and the battery indicator as well as the red triangle. After sitting a little while she was able to start it again but only made it to the next exit where it officially died and needed to be towed to a dealer just outside of St. Louis. It was 104 degrees out this afternoon and she did have the AC, radio and other necessities running during the trip but she had gone less than 100 miles today before it died.
It sucks to be 300 miles away (I'm home) from the car/dealer not really knowing what they'll find or say they found.
My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
1987 olds delta 88, 106,000 miles Pulling out onto the road one day, my car died and would not restart. Was idling fine, happened when I hit the gas. Here are the things checked. Ignition control module and coils checked ok at autozone. I replaced the cam and crank sensors, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs and the tps. Most of the time it will not try to fire, it backfires sometimes. I has started twice, but then would not restart. I have spark and fuel pressure, but will not even fire with starter fluid.
View 12 Replies1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
View 4 RepliesWent out to start my 150 last Wednesday. It started up, then quit, and then wouldn't start again. Later that night, it started up and then kept running. Called up a couple of auto parts stores and was told it was probably the fuel pump. The next day, we got it running and took it into the shop. They couldn't figure out what the problem was, so we took it back on Friday. On Saturday, I drove it about 40 miles, then parked it for about an hour, then it wouldn't start up again.
The mechanic came and checked it, said it almost certainly was the fuel pump, then he got it started with some brake cleaner. I drove it home and then later drove it again. I made a stop and it wouldn't start again. Had to get it towed to the shop. They spent all day Monday changing the fuel pump and filter and thought it was fixed. I picked it up and had no problems that night. My wife drove it Tuesday about 50 miles and had no problems with stopping or starting it. I went to start it up Tuesday evening and it died again and wouldn't start up.
I bought my 2002 prius with 120000 miles. Last night it died with the main battery light and triangle of death on. I haven't taken it to a dealer to have the codes checked out you, but will do it soon. My daughter was driving it when it happened and said the car started shuttering and died. She was able to drive it a few feet at a time before it would die again. Does this sound like a HV battery problem? I will be digging into it tonight.
View 19 RepliesWife was driving her car and went around a corner when out of the blue it died. Unable to re-start. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil pack and still no response. I'm not a mechanic and don't know where any of the sensors are located. I tried doing the self-diagnostics test but now none of the dash lights come on. Car cranks just fine. I've heard that it may be sensors, it could be the safety switch. It's a 95 Plymouth Neon Sport, 2.0 SOHC Five Speed manual.
View 3 RepliesI was leaving work in my 05 Escape. Started up fine, made it to the other end of the parking lot and it died. Restarted it and made it about 10 feet and it died again. Now when I try to start it, it just make a single click. Tried getting a jump from a friend and nothing but the same click when trying to start it. Lights are bright (haven't checked batt voltage yet, but will tomorrow).
View 6 RepliesMy Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
So... Tonight I had just stopped at the bank to deposit a check, hopped in the truck and started her up (started great with no problem), drove the truck through the shopping center and was about to turn on the main road when she died. I coasted into a parking spot and tried to restart her... But all I get is cranking, no firing up or any signs of trying to fire up. Any thoughts?
View 14 RepliesI got home from work today and pressed the power button to shut the car off and the car completely died (door locks and open door dinger worked) and would not restart after multiple attempts. The dash was completely dead. I waited a couple minutes and it started just fine like normal. I went straight to the dealership that does the maintenance to have them look at it and the service manager pretty much told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have since started, driven and turned it off a few times since without any problem, differences from normal, or warning lights. This is the first time anything has ever acted up after 98500 miles.
View 2 RepliesMy Brothers truck died while driving and won't restart. I am going to be getting IDS on it tomorrow night and just wanted some feedback on things to watch. I am planning to watch FICM sync, ICP pressure, IPR %, FICM voltage, and fuel pressure(not in IDS). Anything else I should watch while testing?
Edit: this truck is a 2005
I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
i started my '04 prius (~110k miles) this morning, went back into the house to grab a few things, & then I started hearing a loud rattling sound from the engine for a few seconds before the engine died.
The dash and MFD lite up with these symbols in the attached images.
Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
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