We have 2 Hyundai a 2015 Sonta and a 2002 Elentra I am having problems with the 02 Elentra
I have a 2002 elentra that cranks but will not start it tries to but wouldn't start. It started fine before this and it did start once but ran really rough and only for a few seconds.
My 2002 Elantra GLS seems to have some sort of heat related problem.
I live in Arizona, where temperatures routinely reach well over 100. In the morning my car will start fine, after driving it for some time and parking somewhere, if I try and start the car within a couple hours of driving it, it will crank but not start. Lifting the hood to cool it seems to expedite this to get it started.
I had a mechanic friend of mine hook up his OBD computer at his shop, nothing out of the ordinary. He suspected either a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. No check engine light, nothing out of the ordinary on his computer check. I removed spark plug wires for cylinders 1 and 4 and I have spark while cranking when it fails to start. My mechanic friend said the spark would rule out a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold, and it has no effect. The battery has been replaced within the last two months, connectors are new as well.
I have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
I just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
My car has 203K Miles on it and today when I left for work, it started up after a few more cranks than normal, sputtered a bit and then stalled. I then went to start it again and it would only crank. The fuel was low, but not empty. Normally, the car will have a hard time starting like that when the fuel is low. It is getting colder and those issue are normally amplified. I will list my recent issues with the car below:
- Speedometer jumps all over the place most of the time. Only under throttle does it fixate on the correct speed.
- Check engine light came on a couple of months ago and it was gas cap related. Also related to the fuel tank charcoal filter. After a couple of full tank fill-ups, it went away.
Now, I checked all of the fuses and belts. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay and smelled it and shook it. The one for AC next to it was the same one, so I put it in place of the fuel pump and went to start the car. It had very little power to crank suddenly. So I went back out and placed the relays back in their respective spots. Then I tried to start the car and it cranked even slower until the battery died it seems and the car now has fast clicks when trying to crank.
This has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
View 7 RepliesMy GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
View 22 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with over 215,000 miles. About a month ago, I started my car and it revved up & down from 2 to 4 rpm. I took it to my mechanic and replaced the TPS, thinking it would fix it. What to do next. My mechanic fixes cars, but doesn't do it professionally. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Now, after doing a tune-up and changing out other sensors the RPMs came down to 3 and will stay at 3 rpm when I start the car. When I drive it, it pulls on it's own without touching the gas pedal and is hard to brake. What else I need to fix or replace?
So for about two months now, every time I get gas, the pump cuts off almost immediately after i start pumping. After that, I am able to pump about a second or two before the pump shuts off. It recently has started spitting gas back out of the tank (I'm assuming it's the gas I just pumped into it being spit out). I'm not sure what is wrong. I have not gotten into an accident, there is no smell of gas in the car, the gauge still works fine, and no check engine light on.
View 3 RepliesI am trying to fix the pesky hard start that I have. My car doesn't start right up anymore unless it is frozen cold. Other than that it takes 2-3 cranks sometimes 4 to turn over. That's annoying and embarrassing and I am trying to remedy it ASAP.
I have a check valve and Purge valve on hand right now. In my research it seems this is where I need to focus. I do have an engine code it was P0456 this time. I also have a gas cap.
I have a check valve because of the all too familiar cutting off early at fuel pump problem. I wanted to start there first since I am sure something needs repairing down by the fuel tank and since the problem is common. And hopefully the valve will work with the fill up and MAYBE with the start, if not that is where the purge valve comes in.
I got as far as get the 2 12mm bolts off and then couldn't make it any further.
The car died randomly and now it won't fire. I know it is getting fuel, none of the relays or fuses are bad. I am pretty sure it is not getting spark. The spark plugs that were in it were pretty much gone, put some brand new ones in and while testing I didn't see it spark. The wire resistance tested fine with my multimeter. I just checked the resistance on the coil pack. High side (set to 200k ohms) was ~15.6 on either bank, low side was 0.060-0.062 (set to 2k ohms, my meter doesn't go lower).
View 2 RepliesI have an 2012 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an intermittent issue with startup. When I go to start the car it cranks and just when you'd expect it to start it just drops out. I'm not letting up off the key too early, this happens as I'm still turning the key. All the dash lights stay on. When I try it again it starts right up. I did mention it to the dealer last time it was in and they said they looked it up and discovered the cable to my starter was loose so they tightened it. Clearly that hasn't fixed the problem.
View 6 RepliesSo I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
I have a '97 Hyundai Elantra (That has been turned in to a Dirt Race Car) anyway the car will idol for an hour fine. When we take it on the track it will run 4 or 5 laps fine then we take it in the pits shut it off for an hour and then go back on the track and on the 2nd lap it will quit and will not start it will crank but their in no spark also the dash lights no longer work. After the cars sits for a couple hours it will start back up and idol fine. We have replaced the ECU/ECM relay as we thought that was the problem but the symptoms remain the same. We have checked fuses and don't seem to find a problem our next step is to replace the ECM....
View 8 RepliesThe car cranks but doesn't start. I checked the fuel pump fuse & its OK. I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake & it started for about 2 seconds. What some of the possible causes?
View 5 RepliesCranks, but won't start. I spark tested 2 of the 6 cylinders and saw only 2 sparks and no more each time I attempted cranking. They were strong, good looking sparks. I spark tested with an Autocraft Ignition Tester, Part No. AC657, from Advance Auto.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 trailblazer that will start fine in the morning and after it sits for an hour or two, but once i start it and run it for over ten minutes and i shut it off when i try to re-start it, it will crank but won't start. the dealer cleaned the throttle body and injectors, check the fuel pump for presure and it was fine,and they got no error codes?????? I've read that in can be the ignition switch??
View 14 RepliesMy 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
View 3 RepliesHave a 2002 malibu base 3.1 v6 that will not start. Battery charged, motor cranks, pump pumps 52psi at the rail, pink wire to injectors has 12v, fuses good, injectors click when jumped manually but not when starting. CPM is not grounding the six individual injectors to open nozzles. Bad CPM or is there another sensor I should look at?
View 14 Replies