Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 - Front Main Seal Leaking
Mar 7, 2016
I replaced the front mail seal on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra. It was running beautifully until I put it gear to take a test drive. It dumped half the oil in about a minute. After reading online that there may be a problem with the thrust bearings, I pulled the oil pan and found a thrust bearing in the pan. Is this something I could fix without pulling the engine. Every thing looks good and there are no metal shavings or signs of wear. The car has 170k.
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I have a 1995 Celica GT, 5sfe engine, 5 speed manual. Front main crank seal appears to be leaking. I've replaced transaxles before but no timing chains or oil seals. Is the access from the wheel well and fairly straightforward?
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My daughter has a 2000 intrepid with i believe a 2.7 engine. the rear main seal is leaking.
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Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
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Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
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Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
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2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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My girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
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I haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
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Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
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How hard is it to replace the front diff cover seal in an 03? Mine is leaking like a sieve... On a better note, it's the only leak I could find under my new-to-me Explorer.
Also found a broken coil spring in the rear, explains why it's leaning to one side. That is getting fixed later this week.
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We have a 97 f150 4x4, I have pulled the transmission for repair. The rear main seal is not leaking however I have always replaced them when I pulled a tranny. This is a 5.4l and after removing the flywheel I noticed there is another cover around the crankshaft held on by 8mm bolts around the side and 2 oil pan bolts on the bottom. Does this cover come off to fully access the seal? Is there a gasket available for this cover or is silicone the standard?
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Where I can find a good description of the 2.0 (engine code AVH) PCV system?
This may not be a source of many problems since I find so little on it. My son has a 2003 Golf 2.0. From the little, pretty non-definitive, info that I find it appears that there may not be a problem with its crankcase vent system but it would be nice to be able to find something to understand it better. It's leaking from the rear main seal. We're gonna fix that but don't want to have it reoccur because we didn't fix a potential cause of it.
I've found a couple of references that are observation based:
(1) Loosen the oil filler cap. If it bounces/pulses up and down then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(2) Remove the oil filler cap. If the engine starts idling like it has a vacuum leak the the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(3) Remove/loosen the oil dupstick. If the engine starts to idle rough then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
There seems to be nothing but a couple of hoses involved in the particular engine's PCV system. Not much to trace and nowhere is there any kind of valve, diaphram, etc. that I would expect to find. Can someone either explain this particular version of VW's PCV systems or point me toward a good source?
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Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
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Last night I was rotating my tires when I noticed my front right strut had burst, I think. There is oil all over the inside of the wheel well. I'm trying to attach a pic of it but not sure if it will work?
I'm 99% sure it is the strut, where could all this oil be coming from other then the strut? The metal rod on the shock is even wet with oil.
Can I replace just the one broken strut without changing the other side? Should I change the whole strut or just the shock in the middle of the spring? I'm thinking it is the easiest to replace the whole thing. Will I need a wheel alignment afterward?
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My wife noticed a puddle of oil on the garage floor when I left the other night and unfortunately, it is coming from my 2002 Prius. I jacked it up today and found the oil was NOT dripping down from the side of the engine, but appeared to be coming out of the hole in the casting between the engine and the transmission. This looks to me like a leak on the main seal on the rear of the engine.
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The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
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Right after i got this truck it developed an oil leak which i thought was the front main. Turns out after a lot if degreaser and watching its not and its actually leaking from a small tube running out of the passenger side of the engine. I think its an oil cooler line but not sure. Its where the cross member is located and i cant get in there very easily or figure out how to load up pics to the site on my phone. What this line may be?
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When I took my Saturn L300 to the dealer recently for its regular oil change I was told that my right front axel seal was leaking and it will cost me $580 to replace. This seems awfully high to me. Am I getting fleeced by the GM dealer?
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I've got to replace a leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Haynes shows using a steering wheel puller with the two bolts installed, but without the center screw. Insert a socket and extension through the center screw hole. Hold the body of the puller with an adjustable to keep the crank pulley from turning while you loosen the pulley bolt. I've got an air impact. Would that hammer the pulley bolt loose without having to hold the pulley? I've also got a chain vise-grip, but I'm not sure yet if it would clear the other pulleys. Assuming I get this far, should I pry out the seal with a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape? Would it work to cut the rubber out of the seal first?
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