Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 - Left Tail Light Works But Brake Light Is Out
Jan 8, 2006
My daughter has a 2003 Elantra. The left tail light works but the brake light is out. I opened the trunk and removed the two screws for the cover and found the wire going through a rubber plug. Upon removing the plug, more wires and no bulb.
How do I get to the bulb? There appear to be three screws and bolts, one on each corner, holing the tail light in place. On the fourth corner is just a rubber-looking plug. Do I have to take the assembly out to change bulbs or am I missing something?
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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I just installed the lights and found that only the outside left light worked with the brake depressed, the outside left inside left and inside right worked with the light switch in the on position. Also both blinkers work.
I switched my byte 18 to 04 already and am not (as of now) using my euro light switch (I didn't think this would be it but I'm at a complete loss) ...
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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The stop lights and the tail light of my Elantra GT 2001 (automatic transmission)won't shut off, unless the fuse is removed from its place. Is this something easy to fix? I imagine it can only be some kind of switch on the break pedal/clutch.
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How do I fix a brake light that is out on a 2006 sc in the tail light on the passenger side?
Can these be repaired or do I have to change the entire light?
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Recently purchased a 2001.5 Passat, and of course got the mod itch... started with an Neuspeed ECU flash & DV, along with K&N... and now I'm in the process of suspension & exhaust... Unfortunately the past week, I was told that I had a tail light out.... Upper Rear Passenger Side Parking/Brake Light.... So I figure, hit up the parts store, grab a new bulb, and I'll be set...
Well, come to find out that it's not the bulb....
The light works when I brake, so 1/2 of the bulb is good... but the parking lights won't come on that side, but on the driver side everything is good..... even with the new bulbs..(replaced both on that side[passenger] just to be sure.)
So, just out of curiosity, I took one of the old bulbs that I thought was shot, and put it in the drivers side, and what do you know... it worked flawlessly on that side...
So, I'm led to believe I have a short... or a wiring problem somewhere... but I can't see how this could have just happened without really messing with anything... I mean, I disabled the DRL's.... but I even undid that(small piece of tape covering the B prong)... just to make sure..
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We found out that both our tail lights and our left turn signal light were out. The guy at the Honda place said that he thought that the person who put the hitch on our brand new car screwed something up. He said that 3 bulbs were burned out as well as 2 fuses. He replaced the bulbs and fuses and everything has been working. We pulled our light weight trailer about 4 times before the car was inspected. The car passed inspection. Then this problem showed up about a month later after we had pulled the trailer once or twice more. I'm afraid if I take it back to the guy who put the hitch on, he will just say that he did it right. Why didn't the fuses protect the bulbs from burning out? Could the problem be that water got into the hitch wiring. We wrapped the end of the wires in plastic but noticed water got into the area anyway. Why didn't the problem show up right away? Could the problem show up again even if we don't pull the trailer. What should I do next.
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Purchased used 2006 and the left tail light does not work at times until I rotate the socket as if removing it. This happens frequently and then after about 3 weeks the bulb blows. I've confirmed the there is no socket terminal issue and no intermittent opens in the wiring to the socket. The buld internal glass blackens as if it is running too hot but the voltage measures slightly over 12V when I've measured it. The bulbs are rated at 13V. At this point the only thing I can think of is there must be an occasional high voltage spike that hits the left tail light but not the right tail light.
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My wife's 2003 sportrac has developed a problem. The left rear turn signal brake light will not work. The tail light does. When you turn on the left turn signal the front bulb and the dash light flashes real fast. I have changed both, the front and rear bulbs with no luck. I've read on here about the tilt steering column deal. I have moved the steering column while operating the turn signal with no change.
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I found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
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The trunk light works intermittently. It will run fine for about 45 seconds, then shut off for 10-15s, and cycles... Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two. Or sometimes it only shuts off once, runs fine. Then only when i close and open the door again can i get it to then shut off again in ~45 seconds.
Finally got out the voltmeter and figured out where it's coming from. It's the diode that's attached to the trunk light.
Why is a diode there? Why a diode would behave that way? or is it possibly a solder joint? I still have my standard incandescent bulb in there.
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Was looking to change them out. But can't find anything on how hard/easy this is to do.
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I recently noticed that both of my break lights are out but the light in my rear window works but the other two do not. I was told it was a brake light switch but I am confused on why the window light is working and not the others i feel they should all be connected???
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I think I have a bad socket on my taillight/brakelight on my driver side. Passenger side works fine. Bulbs are not the issue. All other lights functioning. Found a bad 7.5amp fuse on driver side fuse panel. Replaced and still, no taillight.
Any other fuse or cause for the driver side tail light only to stop functioning?
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My tail lights have recently stopped working. When I use blinkers, they are slow, and don't blink if brakes are pressed. The brakes show as a very faint light that cannot be seen in day time. I turned on the hazards to look myself, and they started beeping. I called GMC support and it's too old for them to still know anything about it. I checked the fuses for the rear end and they are both working.
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The passenger side brake lights on my '99 VW do not work when the head lights are on, but do work when the head lights are off. Replacing the brake light does not fix the problem.
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Both brake lights on my KIA Sportage 2006 function normally when the car lights (headlights etc) are switched off.
When the car's lights are switched on, the right brake light completely stops working, whilst the left one behaves normally and becomes brighter.
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2009 Camry LE: my rear brake light doesn't work when braking (fully lit), but it works okay for night-time mode (dimly lit).
This problem is affecting just the right side. The left side is okay for both braking (fully lit) and night-time mode (dimly lit).
Troubleshooting: my deduction led me to believe that my bulb is not burnt out and the wiring harness and fuse are okay because the bulb can be lit during night-time mode, just not when braking. I also think that my brake pedal switch is okay because my left-side brake light is fully lit when braking. I can only speculate it's a circuitry/logic board problem of some sort; I'm just not sure where I can locate the problem.
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The brake light on the driver side doesn't work. The center window brake light works as does the passenger's side brake light. My first thought was the bulb, but when I just have my tail lights on it works just fine. From what I can tell it's obviously the same blub so I don't know where to go from here. The fuse that controls the brake light also controls all of the brake lights so I don't think that would be it since only one side is out. Trying to avoid going to the dealership if I can.
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My 2001 F150 has the ABS light on. I can startup and it runs thru the continuity test, light off, in park, no problem. Push on the brake pedal, no problem. Put it in gear and the light comes on, before you start to roll. Should mean its not the speed pickups, i checked them for ohms and 5 volt supply to each. I ran the scanner and got P0703 on the extended codes.
That normally means bad pressure switch on the brake booster. I knew that would effect cruise control and external leaks can be a problem, but could that be related to the 703 code ? Both "brake" related ? I am tempted to buy a switch and install. I do have the factory recall harness on the switch. And check for continuity thru the switch. Has continuity, but only a few ohms, not sure what it should be.
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