Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Can't Replace PCV Valve
Jun 25, 2007
I've replaced clutches, brakes, timing belts, water pumps, radiators, etc, etc. My 2003 Elantra has 65,000 miles on it and a few years ago I tried to replace the PCV valve with no luck. The PCV valve is threaded into a copper/metal ring that is pressure fitted into the valve cover. When I tried to remove the PCV valve the copper/metal ring spun thus not allowing me to unscrew the PCV valve out of the copper/metal ring. Now when I try to unscrew the PCV valve the copper/metal ring spins in the plastic. I can't get the PCV valve out to replace it.
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Have 2001 suburban with the 5.3. Mechanic has replaced EGR valve 3Xs. Error code specifies "replace EGR valve". Each time car runs fine for 4-6 weeks (500-1000 miles) and then service engine light comes on. Shortly thereafter the car will not idle correctly (under 1,000 rpm) and will die at stop. I think the EGR valves are getting clogged up with carbon. Car has 130,000 miles on it.
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The lights on the knob which selects the where to push the blower air have gone out. I took the dash fucia out and took the that piece that controls the heat and fan speed out. But I don't understand how to open it up to replace the bulb. There are little tabs around the piece which I tried to open but the knobs are connected to something inside so I didn't want to pull too hard and risk breaking something.
How I can change the light bulb? I attached a picture to the post and circled in red the area I'm referring to where the light bulb has gone out.
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A couple of days ago, I was driving my car around when the oil pressure light came on. Having recently changed the oil myself, I figured I had neglected to tighten something down there and it had become loose and was leaking oil. I stopped at two different shops. Both shops told me the leak was coming from the valve cover gasket. Instead of paying $200 for them to replace it, I did it myself. I didn't use any sealant or silicone, or anything like that. The old gasket was hard as a rock and had some sort of red cement around it.
After I had everything back together, I had a partner start the car for me. The oil leak has become much worse--probably a quart a minute. The thing is... I can't see any oil leaking from the valve cover gasket. You would think that an oil leak of that volume would be visible if it were coming from the top of the engine, no? We're going to take the gasket off again to inspect and perhaps use some gasket sealant in select spots, per some YouTube videos we watched.
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Looking for some insight into the state of the motor in a 2002 XD. Short story is that it appears to be leaking oil from the valve cover gasket (common, I know) and sometimes winds up running extremely low on oil before it gets changed. When draining the minimal oil in these conditions, non insignificant amounts of water can be found along with the drained oil.
Car is at 155k miles, has exhibited this behavior for more than a year, and has no noticeable knocking issues, power loss, mpg loss, heating/cooling issues, or any other ill effects other than apparently making a mess in the engine bay, on the ground where it parks, and scaring people when draining the oil.
Logically this is going to not be the case forever.... Thoughts? Prognosis? Treatment?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
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I have a 06 Elantra having a problem with a p0441 code flow fault I changed purge valve and canister purge valve I don't know what else to do what else can I do to get it to go away permanent so I can get car inspected no codes for my car can be on but only 1 i/m
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How do you replace egr valve?
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Im replacing my PCV valve (CEL) but im not sure if I should replace it or just the breather hose.
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I am looking at replacing my A/C compressor but in order to keep the warranty on the new compressor it states that I have to replace the expansion valve (and desiccant). My current compressor hasn't eaten itself yet so I am fairly confident that the expansion valve is still good. However, being a $30 part, I have no problem replacing it if it is fairly easy to access. According to the maintenance manual it is not as it instructs to literally rip apart the whole dash. I just wanted to know if any way to access it without doing all of that work?
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The CEL on my Passat came on. When I scanned it with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached
The car also felt like it lost its power in some way, especially when the turbo kicked in. So after some research, I found out that the Diverter Valve was causing this issue. Rubber diaphragm on original valve was made from rubber and was torn. I replaced it with upgraded valve and wow what a difference!!! Very easy to do, great write up link below.
DIY Diverter Valve Replacement for 2006 VW Passat 2.0T
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Two mechanics have told me that I need the valve cover gasket in my car replaced. I have all of the classic signs of needing one--the smoke coming from under the hood, the drops of oil on the pavement after the car is parked for a few minutes, etc. The problem is that I won't have the money until around Memorial Day. I drive about 300 miles a week. How desperate a repair is this, and what are the signs that I need to have it fixed immediately?
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I have a 2002 toyota camry xle 6 cyl i believe i have a valve cover gasket leaking vehicle has 112,000 miles. is there a step by step removal proccess i can access. I have done one on a 1995 honda passport 6 cyl how difficult is it
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I started my Subbie and all the lights just start going crazy on my dash. So I pulled of the road and started freaking out, Never had a hint of a problem. So I pulled in AutoZone and they ran the codes and now I'm being told I have to replace the brain to my transmission WTH? I don't own a DODGE!!! Had 3 different dodges and the tranny went on all. So I wont own one because of transmission problems. Now my Subaru has been parked since it can only get worse. Is this normal? All the error codes are...
P0700 Transaxle Control System (MIL Request)
P2762 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Range/Performance
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Thats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
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My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
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I have a 2013 FX4 with the 3.5 twin turbo engine. How to remove the right side valve cover to replace the gasket? I have loosened the perimeter bolts and was able to get it to move slightly but nothing more. I also removed the spark plugs thinking that they might be holding the tubes which are connected to the valve cover by round seals. I have not removed the seals since I was concerned that I might damage them. Do they need to come off? If so how do I do it? It's amazing how complicated this job is! Short of calling the dealer service, I have just about exhausted all my usual tech resources.
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I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
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Elantra 2011 1.8 engine ... Where is the PCV valve located?
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I have a 2013 Elantra with 145,000 miles. The A/C isn't working--just blows out warm air. I checked and the compressor turns on when I hit the A/C button. I'd like to try refilling it. I can't find the low pressure valve location (only high). No luck on Google.
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Where is the PCV valve located on 1.8 GLS engine?
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