Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Electrical Systems Not Working When Left The Keys In Ignition Overnight


Apr 1, 2008

My 2004 Elantra is having electrical problems. I left the keys in the ignition one night, and now systems within the car do not work. The car no longer responds to remote controls (lock/unlock). The lights in the cabin do not work. The digital clock and radio displays are blank. The gauges are also reading incorrectly when I start the car (all of them move up and freeze for a few seconds at 4000 RPMs, 70 mph, Hot Engine, then come back down to correct readings).

The car starts fine, and I have checked all fuses. I tried letting the car run to charge the battery, and also tried a jump start from another car to recharge the battery.

Remember, this all started when I left the keys in the ignition over night

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I Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.

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So i JUST got my timing belt replaced on my 2001 B5 Passat 4motion, took it in and got it done. Now when the tech was working on it he said that the car was slow cranking one day, and I have intermittantly seen the same thing before, but i have known for a while that I need a new battery, its old, and randomly have little power, but it has always worked once the car is started.

As soon as i picked the car up yesterday I got the "alternator workshop warning" and quickly the car started to act funny as systems lost enough power to not function correctly (abs light, brake light, etc). Now is there ANYTHING else this could be beside the alternator? fuses, wires, other faults, etc, etc.

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Prius (2001-03) :: Stumbles When Turned Left - CEL Came On - Ignition System Won't Working?

I noticed yesterday that my 2001 was stumbling when turning left. Later in the day, the CEL came on, and I retrieved a P0301 code. In both cases, I was driving around town, not cold but not fully warmed up, engine temp around 40-70 C.

I haven't done any further investigation, other than trying some different driving experiments. I've been able to recreate the problem several times starting out with a left turn when the car briefly runs on three cylinders. Going straight or turning right is fine.

Question: which cylinder is #1? My intent is to check the plugs and leads first, but since it's cold outside I'd like to focus my attention as much as possible on the problem area. I thought at first it might be fuel related because of the turning behavior, but on reflection, it feels more like an ignition issue.

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I just bought a 2006 elantra limited and neither of my keys will turn the lock on the trunk. I have looked all over for secret switches. My key fob doesn't have a trunk button but the lever beside the drivers seat will open the trunk. I don't think it is a valet feature because there is no lock on the glove box.

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Honda - Civichybrid :: Won't Restart And All Electrical Systems Shut Down?

Two weeks ago, my husband and I drove about 90 minutes to a nearby mountain for some snowshoeing. Everything with the car was fine, until we stopped (for about 5 minutes), after which the car BARELY started. When it was time to go home, the same thing happen, and the battery light was on (not the hybrid battery, but just the regular battery). Since the car was running, mostly, and it was Saturday afternoon, we decided to try to make it home. Since the battery wasn't charging, one by one, all the electrical systems shut down, starting with the wipers and ending with the fuel pump. We drifted to a stop on the side of the road.

AAA came and jumped us, which not only got us going but seemed to have solved the problem. The battery tested fine, and Honda ran tests on the car for 3 hours and couldn't find anything wrong. However, we're clearly nervous about taking the car out of town. There was a similar incident a couple months ago, but not nearly as severe - the batter started charging again on it's own after just a couple minutes.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001- Keys Not Working?

Good morning all; Just bought an 2001 Ranger XLT two days ago. Up until yesterday I had used the key fob to open the doors. Tried using the keys and found neither key works in either door. Both keys work fine in the ignition but not the doors. I noticed in the hand book some info about coding the keys but that seemed to pertain to the ignition only.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Lost Full Electrical Systems?

I have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 signal rear wheels Ford tow package. After market options Bully dog power put and outlook controller.

Next the problems When they started and order pleas stay with me.

I purchased a goose neck horse trailer and after hooking it up, plugin in the tight and break round plug I found that the trailer lights did not work. I inspected the plug on my truck I found that the wires were cut next to the plug so I purchased a after market plug and swapped the two out and the lights worked. Excepted the right turn signal did not work.

I thought I was good and then the problems started during the six hour trip home at night my turn lights and break lights ceased to work on my truck and trailer the running lights and head lights work on both. After I returned home I looked for shorts and bad fuses I never found any.

After that I started to accumulate problems.

The Outlook controller would occasionally loose signal and turn off and on and the door ajar is on all the time. After that the I had the oil filter fail and pieces of it went through the IPR screen causing the IPR to fail I know its unrelated but it is. After having a no start condition and replacing the IPR all my gauges would go peg to peg when trying to start. I put a long hard charge on the batteries and got them to a full charge of 12.6CV and had no problem starting any more. I did find at the time I hooked up the charger is that one of the batteries blew off one of the cell covers.

But what happened next.

The truck lost full electrical systems as in the 4x4 switch quit working, the power locks quit working, door chimes quit, the transmission would not shift into overdrive and the tow light flash and now the Outlook Controller flashes on and off so bad I can hardly get the codes off it. The auto headlight quit.

Most of the things I could reset by un plugging fuses and relays to get them to work.

OK the now, I changed the batteries today with new ones and found out the old ones were only at 75% and that fixed some of the problems. The problems I still have is the transmission, turn signals, break lights and Outlook flashing on and off. By the way the Outlook is plugged in the systems plug under the dash.
These are my codes
P0360 ignition coil j primary (I do not know what this is or where I can find it.)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient (Is this the EGR cooler I did a EGR Delete by puting freeze plugs in both ends)
P0603 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error ( I have no clue about this, this started when I lost the IPR durring all that cranking.)

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2004 - Radio And Clock Light Illuminated Overnight Running The Battery Down

I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.

This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.

So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.

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I went to get into my car this morning & my key fob didn't work. I Manually entered the car by using my key in the door (expecting the alarm to go off). I put the keys into the ignition & twist to start my car &.... NOTHING. I'm getting no display on my monitors (almost like there is no power to the car) & to make matters worse. I can't get the key out of the ignition. A couple things of note.

1. I had both batteries replaced in December (as a precaution since both were originals)

2. I've noticed that there may be a water seepage issue (noticed some water collected in the driver side floor of my car which may have gone unnoticed because I'd attributed it to water from my feet when it was raining) I've never seen any water accumulation on the floor during a dry day until this morning.

How I can get the key out of the ignition w/o power (i.e is there a manual release switch?) Is there a way to get the car into neutral w/o power etc.? The last time w/ the steering wheel issue. I had a devil of a time w/ the tow company because the wheels were locked etc.

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What I want to know... is there:

➣ A way to disable/bypass the theft prevention system so I can use the non-chipped key in my ignition?
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We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.

Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..

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Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.

We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.

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