Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Power To Wheels / Car Will Rev Into 4Ks And Will Not Accelerate
Apr 20, 2012
I might bring up a couple issues I've been having with my 2001 elantra gls manual recently.
The big one: Recently, if I accelerate aggressively or even moderately (passing someone or merging onto the freeway), there will be no power to the wheels and the car will rev into the 4K's and will not accelerate until I let off the pedal and am in the 2500 range. Then I can accelerate ever so slowly through the gears or risk being "disconnected". If that even makes sense. Basically, I shift into gear, accelerate, if I accelerate too fast (which is not fast at all) it "goes into neutral" and revs up to 4K and above until it falls back to 2500 or so.
The other problem is that my dash lights keep going on and off. Only some of them, and if I bash my dash they'll sometimes come back on. I checked for loose wiring. Non to be found.
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This car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
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My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
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Just got my timing belt replaced along with the accessory belts and the water pump. I noticed that now my wheels screech when i turn the wheel all the way to the left. This happens mostly when i am pulling in or out of parking spots as that is the only time i need to turn my wheel all the way. I also noticed that when i first turn on my car for the first time in the day, i have high rpms. The rpm returns to normal after i put it in reverse or drive. I didn't have this problem before.
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My 2005 Elantra is jerking soon after I accelerate. It does not jerk at any other time. It's not a hard jerk. Sometimes it doesn't jerk at all after acceleration. When it does jerk, the rpm jumps up too, and goes back down after the jerk.
I took it to a transmission shop and they checked the fluid and used a diagnostic thing to check the electrical components, all of which were fine. Is there another possible reason for this jerking?
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My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
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I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
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I've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
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So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
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I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
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I have a 2005 hyandai elantra with 176k miles. ck eng light came on with P0340 cam shaft positioning sensor. I replaced it and cleared code and ck eng light came back with same code. So as last resort took it to dealership who replaced the wire from sensor to ecu and told me i had a bad ecu. I replaced it with a used one from a semi-reputable salvage yard (i mean i have used them several times with no issues). The code came back almost instantly. Symptoms of the car starts good cold within a few minutes it is very slow to accelerate and i have noticed a severe loss of MPG. I have also checked timing because i changed the belt in this process.
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F350 2001.
Constantly throwing codes for both front wheel's ABS. Ohm'd out both sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out wires leading to sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out rear diff speed sensor against a new one - same reading.
Pulled front sensor's cleaned and put my fingers in the sensor hole. What should I be able to feel? I'm wondering if the previous owner put non ABS hubs on?
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I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
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Since it was about 16 months old, my 2012 Elantra Limited has been producing a creaking noise in all four wheels. It appears to be related to the brakes somehow, as I am most able to reproduce it by...
(a) braking while going over a bumpy road. (The creaks are heard when the car gets jostled even slightly and are short in duration.)
(b) braking and then turning sharply into a driveway that begins with a steep incline. (The creaks are heard while accelerating or coasting, but shortly after braking, in all four wheels as each wheel hits the incline. The creaks are long in duration.)
(c) sometimes just driving slowly over bumps.
The issue seems to improve the longer the car is driven - but it doesn't go away.
I've had the car looked at numerous times by three different dealerships. The first couldn't reproduce the issue. The second only did a visual inspection. The third worked with me as I reproduced the issue for them, found some wear and tear in the front ball joints, boots, bushings, and sway bar (and replaced them), and lubed the braking system components in all four corners of the car. Alas, the issue persists, same as before.
I've driven loaner Elantras and Sonatas and haven't had this problem with any of them. The service department at the dealership is happy to continue working with me, but cannot replace anything that isn't clearly defective or malfunctioning. (Another dealership did that and the fallout from Hyundai hit me as well as them - so I agree that this is reasonable.) For now, they're considering this problem normal body flex noise. The next step would be to get an engineer from Hyundai involved.
Is it normal? On my car, it can be VERY loud as the corners of the car move up and down - again, either while braking or shortly after braking. It now has a little over 40,000 miles and is over 4 years old.
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Since Sunday I lowered my car on SCALE coilovers and today my car started to make a "clac" sound when I turn the wheels. It can be heard either I'm on idle or driving but only while I'm turning the wheels.
What's it can be? Axle maybe? Have I missed something when I dropped the car? Is there any specification that should have been respected and that I didn't?
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I recently bought a 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring. It only has 53,000 miles but I notice a rumbling sound that corresponds to the wheels moving at least about 15 - 20 mph. It's FWD and the front two tires were replaced recently by the previous owner. The mechanic who checked it out before I bought it thought that it was the rear bearings, but when he looked at the tires, he was pretty sure the sound was coming from the tires. I don't mind the noise, but if it's not the tires, it's something I should fix.
I took it to a shop today and the mechanic today and he drove around with me and though the sound was coming from the front of the car and thought it was either something with the rotors or the bearings. I've gotten the speed upwards of 70mph on the highway and I wouldn't say the sound gets any worse when you do that. (I mean you can still hear it, but for instance I didn't even notice it on my first test drive, and the radio mostly drowns it out.) Also given that these two mechanics can't seem to tell whether the sound is from the front or the back, I'm not sure that rotating the tires and listening is going to be useful as a lay person.
It's not a "clunk da clunk" sound, rather it's like a vacuum cleaner hum. Also maybe relevant, the rotors and pads on the rear wheels need to be replaced pretty soon.
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I have 2007 hyundai elantra se with hankook optimo h426 tires. I like the car, everything is very nice except, the tires. I'm driving a lot in the streets and when i hit a bump or pothole, the car making a lot of noises(rattling noise) coming from the suspension (all 4 wheels). The dealer check suspension and said that evrery thing is good.I also think that suspension working properly, because a can not believe that all four shocks not gonna work properly at the same time. Can be this from the low quality of the tires and if i change the tires ,this gonna solve the problem?
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I have been hearing a loud squeek coming from the wheels in the front. It sounds like a brake wear bar but isn't it a little early to replace the pads already? I searched the forum last night briefly and found some threads where people commented the brakes should last much much longer than 50000.
I do not ride my brakes and I don't think I am hard on them. They still work great and do not feel worn. The noise is constant (not only when i turn the wheel) and it goes away after a certain speed.
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My son's Elantra is making a strange sound, which seems to be coming from somewhere in the rear, underneath the vehicle (in between the wheels). I can hear it with the car parked, idling. In gear or out of gear doesn't seem to matter. It's not very loud, but it's rhythmic. I checked the engine compartment, but I can't hear it at all up there. I *think* I can hear it while driving, but it's very hard to hear over the engine and road noise while driving.
The sound reminds me of a squeaky pulley, with a period of 1-2 seconds. The car has been serviced recently, and the mechanic said it was in great shape. Mileage is ~50K.
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I have an 02 Elantra that the power locks don't work. I found the fuse panel behind the change drawer but can't figure out which fuse(if that is the problem) that caused this failure.
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2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
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