Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Sluggish In Throttle Response And Low On Power
Dec 8, 2012
I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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I'm getting pretty significant throttle response delay in my 2013 Elantra w/ Tech. It's pretty egregious in stop-and-go traffic when I attempt to accelerate, wait a second before my car responds, and then get jerked forward, only to stop a second later.
I emailed Hyundai and was told to speak to the dealership. I called up the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I emailed another local dealership, and they didn't get back to me. Pretty annoyed at this point.
I did a search on this forum and found some threads discussing resetting the throttle system by resetting the ECM. Wasn't too confident in doing that myself and I didn't want to mess up my car's computer system at all. I'd like the dealership to take care of this under warranty, but if they haven't heard anything about this, then I'm not sure how to proceed. What my next move should be?
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I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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I have just taken a red mk4 r32 home. It feels really down on power and throttle is really snappy when try to take off.
If im going along at any speed say 20-50mph and lift the throttle off it gets a quick burst of acceleration. I think its had a Celtic remap if that means anything. also gets some crackling and popping even with the cats still on it.
Also cleaned the throttle body made no difference. I am also sure i can hear a vacuum leak when going through streets. Just replaced MAF and Lambda sensor. no other codes coming up on diagnostics.
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i got a 99 F250 powerstroke with 148K on its clock, i have a couple issues that i cant find a definitive answer for, 1 just started recently, Its an automatic and when it shifts into third around 40 mph the rpms drop to 1200-1300 or so, its done it since i got it, but recently it wont accelerate like it should or used to do, i have to put it down and make it downshift to recover.
Now I have no CEL. and it is still running perfect just has very little power, I do have a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and have a TS 6 position chip with i usually run in +50hp mode, but it does this in all positions. Now issue 2 is when its 30 degrees sometimes it will not start. It'll turn over with now fire. but if i cycle the key again it'll fire right up like a champ? It has a 4 month old starter and batteries and a month old alternator and i have tried several CPS' and Contently check the connections.
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Had brought this up before but it seems like the thread got black holed. After my car warms up, it feels quite a bit down on power and throttle response is a bit jerky. I just replaced the MAF and the coils hopping it would work, no codes on VAG Com. I was thinking maybe the green coolant temp sensor went out ? Car does backfire a bit when decelerating. Also the RPMs drop down a bit slower than normal lately.
Cam sensors are not loose.
GIAC chip, EVO intake + stage 2, exhaust. 134k miles.
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In the mornings no power/ no throttle response when cold, another starts at same day fine til next morning. Car is golf iv vr6 4 motion...
5 Faults Found:
17535 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Rich
P1127 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17537 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Rich
P1129 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Rich
P1137 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17547 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add): System too Rich
P1139 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17551 - Load Calculation Cross Check: Upper Limit Exceeded
P1143 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Also O2 sensor show on idle -20% to -15% (engine temp 60 C) but vagcom normal was (-10% to 10%) (after reading from ross-tech, maybe O2 readings are off because running rich) and intake air temp was 29`C but outside were 17`C, it has new maf...
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My 7.3 has no throttle response, the code reader says pass, and there are no codes, would it do this even thow it has a bad TPS?
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I have a 99 F450 with the 7.3L in it. I brought it home the other day and parked it. Later I went to do something with it and I had no throttle response at all. I checked the wiring going in and coming out of the throttle position sensor. I have approx. 5 volts going in and the voltage sits at about .5 volts and rises as the accelerator is depressed on the outgoing wire. The other switch on the pedal is open and does close when the pedal is depressed, so it seems those are fine. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to have on the 3rd wire that goes to the TPS.
I have a Bully Dog tuner and it shows an exhaust back pressure sensor error and a couple of voltage errors to the accelerator pedal. I read somewhere that someone had an exhaust sensor short out and it starved the accelerator pedal from voltage or something like that but I do have good voltage at the pedal going in and out. I ordered a new sensor and tube.
If the exhaust pressure sensor was shorting out and I unhooked the wires could that make the pedal work if the sensor was the problem or would the accelerator pedal not work at all without that sensor being connected? (The old tube was somewhat plugged up and I saw it had a small rust hole in it)
If it's not the sensor, what else can I check? Where can I check under the hood to see if the wires from the TPS are getting power to where they need to? I assume they go to the computer and that tells the pump or whatever to give more fuel.
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So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
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2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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So I was driving to work and the truck lost throttle response. There was very little of it! Came to a stop then it didn't barely want to move, pulled over then it died on me! No clue what to look at! 2005 6.0 232k miles
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I just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.
Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.
Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.
Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good
Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge
Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service
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I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
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I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
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2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.
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I have a 2003 Elantra, which I've had for several years, and love greatly. Recently though, she's been giving me problems.
When it first started happening, about 6 months ago, it seemed that she was simply sluggish, and wouldn't accelerate as well as normal when I pushed the gas.
It has gotten worse from there, within the past 4 months, sometimes when I turn her on, she idles very rough, and the entire car shakes. Originally when this started happening, if I turned her off and back on, she would run smoothly again. Unfortunately that's no longer the case.
If I attempt to drive anywhere when she's acting up, pushing the gas makes the RPM drop down, and she doesn't move. This has caused a lot of problems at stop where I'm turning onto a busy road. Occasionally when I'm driving around, her RPM drops far below what it should. For example, she frequently drops down to 700 RPM when I'm driving 35 mph... normally when going that speed, the RPM is about 2000.
Most troubling to me is the fact that the engine turns off on me without warning sometimes. I've had her do it when I'm at a stop waiting to turn, at stop lights, and dangerously, even when I'm slowing down through traffic or getting ready to pull into a parking spot.
I've tried multiple things, fuel injector cleaners, replacing temperature sensors, and I've checked all the valves, wires, and hoses. I've had it attached to a code reader and of course she never acts up while it's attached.
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