Escort :: 97 2.0 SOHC Lost Compression On Cylinder 4 / Car Started Throwing PO304


Feb 20, 2012

Car started throwing PO304 and checked coil, plugs, wires and injectors before finally checking compression. Checked #4 and it was 70. Checked #3 and it was 150 something. Got mad and quit

3 weeks ago the CEL started coming on only when i was low in a gear. Like rolling to a stop sign and taking off in 2nd instead of 1st. Dogging the car to avoid downshifting i guess i would say. Car would jerk like crazy and throw a code but would drive out of the jerking and run fine.

There are no loud noises coming from the valves. Engine runs a lil rough at idle but you would not notice it after you get going. Spark plug #4 had some oil on the threads, others did not. No antifreeze in oil, looks good. Throws PO304 constantly now..

Buddy came over and said he would first check the timing belt to see if it had slipped before digging into the head. To tell the truth, i probably will not be digging into the head anyway's. I probably could not find the problem anyways.

Just wondering what could be some realistic explanations for losing most compression on one cylinder. Could the valve seat be getting ready to go or is that a all or none type of deal?

This is a 97 wagon with 314,000 miles. I am getting 37 MPG and it drives straight as an arrow. Just replaced all tie rods and brakes and had her front end aligned and this is how she treats me. Would like to save this car as i really like it for my 700 miles a week commute to work. Judging the price of used cars nowdays, i have thought about replacing the engine with a used one if it comes to that but we will have to see.

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Ford - Escort :: 2002 - Getting PO304 / Misfire On Cylinder 4

For the past few days I've been trying to track down the problem with my '02 Ford Escort. First thing I did was change the spark plugs which smoothed out the engine some, but I still have the PO304 (misfire #4 cylinder). Next I swapped the plug wires between #3 and #4 and reset the ECU hoping the code would come back PO303 (misfire #3 cylinder), yet it still set a code for cylinder #4 meaning the plug wires were good. I then tested the coil and camshaft position sensor which both tested good.

After this I checked the compression on #4 and it was good at 175 PSI. When I removed the #4 plug to test the compression it was gas soaked so the injector is firing, but apparently not the plug. My Chilton's manual says the center pin (ignition/start/run) on the wiring harness for the coil should have 10 volts with the ignition switch in the off position. I checked this and only had 0.1 volts. Where this wire receives it's voltage from and able to tell me more about what to look for or test? I never expected to have so much problem finding a cylinder misfire.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Code PO304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire

I have a '98 F150 4X2 extended cab with a 4.2l with 233K on it. I have no problem with drivability when I drive 5 miles to work. However, a couple of weeks ago when I had to drive 15 miles to the liquor store to get what I needed (I live in a dry county) I got back into my truck, started it and drove of. It drove like crap like I lost a cylinder. Drove it back home those 15 miles, let it cool off, put my scanner on it and got a PO304 code and I think a PO174 (bank 2 lean) code. Went to the #4 cylinder and found the plug had loosened up.

Tightened it back up, cleared the codes, and went through my normal weekly routine of driving to work with no problem. Made a booze run the next weekend and the same thing happened. Limped back home and found another PO304 code. Found the plug to be tight and in good condition but changed all the plugs since they were cheap copper core and had 20K on them. The wires only have 20K on them, too. Installed platinum plugs, drove all week 5 miles to work and back just fine. Made another 15 mile run yesterday and the same crap happened all over again after I got out of the store and drove home.

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On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.

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Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.

He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.

I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.

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