Explorer :: 1999 - Intermittent False Activation Of ABS
Oct 14, 2015
I have been experiencing intermittent false activation of the ABS when I come to an almost complete stop. This allows the car to drift just a little further than desired. This started happening following a front brake job with a right caliper replacement as well. None of this caused the ABS light to come on. I did some net searches and followed recommendations to pull and clean the front sensors and reinstalled them. This resulted in the ABS light coming on. Oh goodie! So, I went to Advance Auto Parts and used their code reader and it showed the right sensor failure, so I bought a hub assembly to replace the sensor and cable.
It was only $20 more for the hub over the cable alone, so it was a no-brainer to me. I replaced the hub and no more light! Great! Upon the test drive, I was back to the slow speed false ABS activation. There goes $120 for nothin'! All of this is on dry pavement. Recently, after three months of the ABS thing, my 4WD HI & LO lights began to flash - 6 times each time and repeats regularly (every 3 minutes or so). My HI lock works, but I have yet to get the LO lock to engage (the auto lock has never worked on this vehicle since I had gotten it).
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I am working on my friend's '02 Explorer 4x4 with 4.6L engine with 122k on it, the dash is telling him that he has low oil pressure. When it first came on he was an hour away from home, what he told me he did was pull over and checked his oil level right away. He found that it was still full and since the engine wasn't making noises he resumed his trip home. During the drive home he said the dummy oil pressure gauge would read normal then drop all of a sudden then come back up again after so long.
When he got back home he changed the sending unit plus the oil and filter and his Explorer still reads as if it has no oil pressure. The needle does not read anymore, he noted to me when he pulled the filter off it looked like it did not have the normal amount of oil inside it. I did not get to see it so I can not verify that. When he starts it it kind of sounds like it has to fill the filter every time like a fresh oil change, rattles around for a second then smooths out and sounds good..
So is his oil pump to blame for the light being on or is there something wrong with the gauge in the cluster? I have not hooked a mechanical gauge up to where the sending unit threads into so I don't know how much pressure it actually has. If not the oil pump what could be the cause? My other friend and I looked at the oil that came out of the new filter and we thought we saw metal specs in the oil. Is it new engine city time? It has such low miles to need an engine.
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I have a 2000 7.3L PSD and the light switch pulls out like the newer Fords do to activate their fog lights, I am just trying to find out if who has hooked up fog lights to this switch on a 2000? If so, how?
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I'm putting a new double din stereo w/ backup camera in my truck, I have everything wired except the violet/white wire (from the stereo) that needs to be hooked to a wire (on the truck) that will activate the camera when you put it in reverse. I cannot figure where this wire is on the 2012 for the life of me.
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Have been having problems with my a/c on my '02 Sport Trac (4x4 w/ 235K miles) running cold, then hot, then cold again but inconsistently. Aside from the fact that it always seems to happen when I'm really in need of some cold air, there doesn't seem to be a pattern...in traffic, idling, highway driving, city driving, but it does seem to be a bigger problem at lower speeds or in traffic. No issues with air flow or controls, just maintaining cold temps. I've already had the system recharged and in the past replaced the a/c manifold hose assembly, and a dye test was inconclusive.
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1997 Explorer belonging to a friend who will show up complaining that his battery is dying. Of course, the problem is intermittent.
So far, tried 2 new alternators, (rebuilds), 3 batteries and several diagnostic sessions which have been inconclusive. What I do know is that when the charging system is not working, I still have full battery voltage on the Y/W and LG/R wires on the small wire plug at the alternator. The path from the alternator output through the megafuse to battery + does seem to be intact. Measures full battery voltage and even tried a test by using a battery booster cable to connect the alternator output directly to battery + when the system was not charging.
No change with this test. Visual inspection of the engine to firewall ground strap and the battery - to rad cradle ground wire seem to be OK. Have not had the opportunity to try the jumper cable trick to verify the alternator case to battery - circuit, (darn intermittent!). There did seem to be something intermittent related to a wiggle test in and around the power distribution fuseblock, but once again, this was inconclusive. I also was able to make the charging system fail, (once) by turning on the headlights and blower motor.Any specific failures that may cause this? Not much left to change or check!
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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We have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
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Check Charging System message, battery-shaped idiot light, and audible beep has happened a few times over the past month or so. Yesterday it happened while my wife was driving so I had to bring it to the dealer, not to mention I drove it last night and there was constant beeping for about a minute which was pretty annoying.
But first I had the battery checked, which turned out to be OK. Also we got a new alternator 5 months ago, installed by the dealer.
Today they said they "updated the computer" whatever that means, and otherwise couldn't find anything wrong. $99.85 plus tax.
Needless to say I'm not confident that "updating the computer" has fixed it. What are the odds we get the warning again in a couple of weeks? Short of disconnecting the sensor, is there anything that can be done?
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Have an 02 Explorer XLT that recently had its' ABS light intermittently come on. As well when the ABS light is off the brakes will pulsate when slowing.
Took to dealer they noted the following:
Rear sensor out .... ABS Control unit is out. Was shorted out due to Hydraulic Control Unit going out. Hydraulic control unit is obsolete at Ford.
Questions:
With all of this going on, how was I able to brake although not adequately?
Does the HCU control normal breaking too (without ABS)?
Immediately he says he would not put the money into it and wants to get me to someone to trade it in on another vehicle? While I understand the logic somewhat I do not being approached like this.
Can I get a better quote going to a mom and pop mechanic and getting second hand parts?
Is there a possibility to bypass/disconnect the ABS system and would it be recommended?
How to deal with? Vehicle is in great shape aside from mechanical issues creeping up and don't want to lay out the dough for a new vehicle.
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My 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
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Engine revs excessively when I press accelerator to shift between 2 and 3 gear. It acts like the transmission is having problem "up shifting". However I had the transmission checked thoroughly and all checks out OK. New fluid, no leaks, compression good, bands good, no debris in housing etc. This engine rev also occurs while stopped at stop lights for no reason. (no acceleration, etc) I also notice the fan behind the radiator running at high speeds when engine is in idle mode. Fan revs and then slows and then revs again. Don't know if this is related.
Engine rev is not related to running the AC. It happens if AC is on or off. The fan rev and the engine rev are not the same sound or symptom.The vehicle runs fine when I first drive it on 40 mile trip to work in the AM. As the day goes on and the vehicle is driven more then the engine rev problem shows up. (again on an intermittent frequency). Question. Could a dirty fuel filter cause this engine rev. Question. What might be some things to check out to find and resolve this problem?
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2003 Ford Explorer 4.6 liter AWD. Having some kind of VERY STUBBORN idle / emission problem. When it started it was an intermittent rough idle, mostly going too low or making a periodic "drumming" sound that could be felt and heard at the air cleaner box. CHeck engine codes were PO 442 evap system leak. I first cleaned and inspected throttle body, mass air flow sensor and idle air control valve. I inspected hoses for leaks, including spraying cleaner to see if I could detect idle changes / leaks. I then replaced Idle Air Control Valve. Did not seem to cure problem . SO took it into Ford Dealership and they smoke tested and said needed Vapor Management Valve and Vent Solenoid. I replaced VMV myself. Idle no longer "rattled" but when driving and braking the idle would drop down very low and sometimes not "kick up" and would die. I then took it back to dealership to have them replace the vent solenoid and reprogram the PCM. Still doing it. They said I might have a defective (new) Idle air control and to replace it- otherwise they dont have a clue.
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2003 Explorer Sport, 4.0 L, 84K miles. Car just fell out of extended warranty and has been serviced exclusively by the dealer.
While driving, I experienced a sudden bog down and inability to travel faster than 20 - 25 MPH. The more pedal you give, the less power. In neutral, free revs will not go above 3000 RPM at full pedal and will rise and fall between 2000 - 3000 RPM. The next day all is normal again. This happened twice now and I am not sure why. No CEL, no stored codes.
Plenty of pressure (felt by hand only) out the tail pipe except when fluctuating during free revs. There doesn't appear to be any vacuum leaks. What I can check to correct this? Could it be bad fuel or water in fuel?
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I took a curve pretty aggressively with my worn out tires. I was neither braking nor accelerating. The skid control icon flashed a few times, but there was no beeping. I am pretty sure the flashing was from VSC activation. I thought this is accompanied with beeping from the buzzer. Has this been changed for the newer models?
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I have recently import a Prius C from Japan and it is equipped with YUPITERU remote engine start key. Don't know about activating this remote to start engine from outside of my prius c. Its manual is in Japanese and i am not familiar with Japanese language.
Model is ES-A105T
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How do we activate the rear fog on the Tiguan? I have been playing with the coding but have as of yet found a way to activate it. I am assuming that it will be one of the lights on the hatch that is supposed to be the rear fog...but can not find or get any info.
I have the parking lights active already...now I want my rear fog active as well. I don't care about the dash icon...but I do want the light to actually work. I have done this on all of my previous cars (run the wiring etc) but this Tiguan seems to be eluding me! [IMG] [URL] ....
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Is it possible to activate the alarm lock beep on a 2011- New Spec Touareg?
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I owned my Advanced model PIP for about 4 months now. I recently found out that the AC climate control in my entune app in my iphone doesn't work. Whenever I tried to turn it on, it takes more than 1 min, then finally shows "Climate activation was not successful Please try again". All other apps such as vehicle finder, charger management work well.
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Having problem with trunk lid ....... it is occasionally opening without activation ....... sometimes I'm less than a 1/2 mi from home, sometimes one to two miles from home ...... trunk just opens and button (trunk release) on key fob has not been pushed ???
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How I could activate the map lights to turn on when the door opens? Right now it's set for the dome lights to turn on but i dont want that.
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