Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 Will Not Restart Again After Engine Gets Warm / Bad HPOP?
Feb 23, 2016
2003 with hot no start issues. It starts fine in the morning however will not start again after the engine gets warm, after an hour or so of cooling off it will eventually go. Not sure if I should start with.... Readings below ....
FICM L 13.5v
FICM M 48v koeo and 47 running
IPR 14.7% koeo
IPR 74.6% cranking (no start while hot)
IPR 40% (after cold start while running
ICP 737psi cold start
ICP 1600psi engine running 2k rpm
ICP 360 hot while cranking
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I have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
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Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
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My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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2003 f350 6.0. Ran last night and wont start today. Monitor says 85 psi pressure, should be atleast 500 to start. Could it be the IPR?
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Finally got the hpop in my 03 done, got it fired up and runs great. The longer crank times seem to be getting better, however I am a bit concerned when I really get into her I am seeing pressures of 3400 psi......seems high to me. I guess I don't know for sure what the IPR was reading, will have to check that. Truck runs great, nice and smooth, but I am afraid I am going to blow something.
What is normal and what is not? Is there a way this pump will dump excessive pressures if needed? Or is it just a matter of time before I blow an oring out somewhere? I'm not sure how much the pump is capable of putting out. At idle it's sitting right around 630 after warmed up, maybe a bit lower.
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My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
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I have a may 2003 6.0l f350 4x4 ,autoenginuity scanner, recently bought the truck starts fine and idles well then when engine get warm it starts to smoke unburnt fuel (white) volume of fuel desired on scanner goes from about 14 mm~3 to 27mm~3 and starts to run rough if you depress the acellerator the motor smooths out and the fuel desired goes down. No coolant smell. egr cooler removed ,oil cooler replaced, exhaust back pressure sensor and tube cleaned .ebp sensor koeo 14.2, eo 17 but jumped to 54.0 when map was at 17, bp 31.20 .... The AE is new to me Also found a superchip tuner under the back seat ...
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Now that I have been driving for a while I kept seeing this light come on/off and I did a video below - I don't generally flash my lights so don't think I am aggressive - but I wanted to make sure to capture the video and the light coming on.
I was thinking valve cover connection the 50 cent mod - and maybe it's all coincidental - but I did have to pressure wash the troph where the oil collects and maybe something else got knocked loose.
[URL] .....
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Quick question, does an early 04 have an SCT on the HPOP that can be upgraded?
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I have a 03 350 with a 6.0 . The truck starts fine in the morning and runs great all day as long as you don't shut it off. It's not going to start until the morning. It will crank over fine, the fuel pump seems to be working, its like there is no power to the injectors. I don't have a wiring diagram so not sure which relays are for injectors. Could the ficm be causing it? Is there a site where I can download a fuel sys schematic ?
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When I pulled my HPOP cover the other day, noticed some RTV on each side where you have the small step down from the block and the piece of metal on the backside of the pump housing. The new gasket I installed had he step down and looked like it would fill the gap, but is the RTV necessary?
There was a previous leak on the turbo drain tube that the dealer I bought it from tried to stuff some kind of fiberglass material in there to absorb the oil. I half wonder if the dealer didn't try to "fix" the back of the cover leaking by cramming some RTV in there. I have to pull the cover again in a couple days and wanted to see if I needed to do anything special when installing the cover?
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How does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
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I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home.
Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours then shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again.
I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds.
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I got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
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July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
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I've gone through every possible step in diagnosing myself but can't seem to figure it out. I do not have access to shop air to do an air test. Vehicle history that I know of: Has updated STC fitting, looks to be a reman hpop. I have tested the LPOP with the oil filter housing, fills quite fast, although no pressure registers while cranking on the gauge. When I opened the HPOP case to take a look, I found the reservoir dry. What can cause the LPOP to not feed the HPOP? I will be updating everything. The truck has relatively low KMs sitting at only 163,000.
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My best friend has a 2011 Ford F-250 6.7 ltd power stroke diesel XL. He was driving to Denver in -4 degree weather when all of a sudden his windows iced up and the temperature gage would not sit at normal operating range. ( stayed all the way down on the cool side) the heater seemed to be blowing warm air not hot like it usually does. The thermostat was changed 2 months ago any thoughts on this one?
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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I have a 2005 ford Excursion 6.0 with an EGR delete, bulletproofed beauty. I bought it about 8months ago and It ran great. I soon bought a 270amp DCpower alternator for it after the batteries died and then replaced the batteries. I eventually developed a no start when hot issue and decided to tear into it my self with everything I've learned on FTE! I love this site and most of you are like legends to me.... so I thought, how hard could this be?
So I bought that fancy icp pressure adapter for testing the pressure from the passenger side valve cover then found one that test pressure at the IPR port. So I went and bought that too 6 0L Powerstroke Specialist's Tool Kit Air Test Tool Ball Tube IPR Sockets | eBay and it lead me to multiple leaks on both sides of the oil rail.
I also bought the CTS2 insight and started monitoring things and realized I had more problems than I thought. I'm still learning how/what to look for and monitor. Anyhow, My EOT and ECT would sometimes be 30-40 Deg. apart. So knew I'd have to replace the oil cooler.
So here I am, I bought ALL ford OEM parts which were -- Oil cooler/standpipes/dummy plugs/ STC update/updated oil drain tubes/Coolant filter/bluespring kit/bango bolts/new degas bottle cap.
I put EVERYTHING in and was careful as can be. I located my leaks and it turned out to be the injector seals on #1 #2 and #5 injectors. The one on the top of the inside of the injectors. So then I bought all new ALIANT injector seal kits (all 8) might as well do them all while I'm in there. And put it back together. Still friggin leaked at injector 1 and 2. So I polished all the nipple cups and bought 8 new ALIANT seals for cups on the rail...STILL LEAKED (swear word).
After putting everything back together and taking it apart 6-7 times...I tried sticking the air directly into the injectors (#1,#2) using a rubber nipple and the injector spill ports were pissing out air. The rest of the injectors ports didn't leak at all except for #3 which was barely a leak.
So after some reading about this problem, I read that this "spill port" leak was normal and could be that the spools were probably closed so it was nothing to worry about. Or that's what I understood.
I put everything back together one more time and got ready for some "long cranking". I should mention I filled the oil valley from the filter housing (about a half a gallon) and cranked for 20sec...Waited 2 mins...cranked 20 sec...waited 2 mins.......continuously untill batteries went dead...then I recharged them and repeated...and recharged them and repeated...I knew It would take a long time but holy cow.
I used the CTS2 to watch my icp volts and it was 0.2 KOEO and while cranking. It didnt change. So I unplugged it. Now I have 1400psi. I tried using my other F350 ICP sensor and same thing. So Its not the sensor. Maybe the harness? So I unplugged the fcim and replugged it back in. Still wont start. I'm at my wits end with this and my wife is hating me for "trying to save money" and blocking the driveway for the last 9 days...
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