I am looking for the known good replacements. Almost made the 200,000 mile mark before getting a groul out of the driver side. Ball joints seem good with very little movement.
View 7 RepliesCan't seem to find a number for just the bearing and snap ring. All I can find are the dang assemblies.
View 11 RepliesWhat is the size of the nut that needs to be removed so I can pull the carrier bearing off the drive shaft? I need to purchase a socket.
View 14 RepliesFrom what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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When replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
View 14 Replies2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...
View 11 RepliesI'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
View 7 RepliesIs the A/C condenser pretty simple to replace on the 2006 F350? Replaced the compressor but then noticed the condenser was leaking. Looks simple just wondering if there are any quirks to it.
View 14 RepliesLooking for a video or directions as to how I replace a windshield wiper motor on a 2006 SD?
View 2 RepliesI'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
View 10 RepliesIt's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
View 3 RepliesI have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.
Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?
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Wanted to replace my front headlights on the '06 with the PIAA Extreme White bulbs.
Before I ordered them I looked to see how easy the bulbs were to access...
Looks like its a bear to access. Is there a video??
As a side note I already have the Brite Box installed, which I really like
Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
I have a 06 f250 that has a coolant leak in the front of the engine. It's was leaking about a month ago replaced the water pump it stopped. Then about 2 weeks later it started back up again. It only happens when the engine is cold. But once it warms up it starts leaking again. I am confused as all get out on this.
View 1 RepliesI am trying to track down a creaking sound in the front end. Happens when turning mainly left but occasionally right or slow speed turning the steering wheel. I've rebuilt the front end (not because of the creak) ball joints, tie rod ends both inner and outer, sway bar bushings, power steering pump, shocks, steering shock etc. what's left? All parts have been greased good but still can't find it.
View 2 RepliesI need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
View 10 Replies2005 f350 188000 on the clock had a bearing get loose in the turbo . Installed a new power-max but if the bearings are oil fed should i also change it? There are no signs of metal in the oil or the old turbo . The oil has 600 miles on it with archoil.
View 1 RepliesReplacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?