Live data readings dropping to zero while hooked up with AE. They drop to 0 and come back but it's pretty annoying. Not sure if it's my old laptop or the actual program itself.
View 2 RepliesI have an early 04, I'm not sure if there's a different in pressure over the years. But I'm curious what normal or average readings are. Btw I did replace the icp and pig tail last year. Here is what I have in psi from my sct
Cold start at idle 680 .23v
Warm idle 635 .24v
Cruising 1800rpms about 1500 .32v
WOT about 4200 .78v
I have a 04 CC F250 6.0. Lately my EOT and ECT have been all over the place the ECT has been fluctuating more than the EOT. For the past 100K miles my deltas have been within the 15 degree range. The ECT will vary up to 25 degrees from the EOT; EOT may be 180 and ECT 155. I purchased a new water temp sensor thinking that was the culprit, but haven't replaced it yet. I am using a scanguageII to monitor engine parameters. I have noticed when starting the truck in the morning the temps seem to be stored from the previous night, ex. ambient temp is 75 and SGII shows 90 then comes down to match the ambient temps. For the past few days I have been noticing the truck runs and starts smoothly until I get up to 50 mph, when cold, then starts to develop a miss until it reaches operating temps. Once reaching operating temp the truck runs smooth. Could the ECT sensor cause this or is there something else going on, missing at hwy speeds until warmed up?
View 14 RepliesI have replaced hpop, lpop gears and cover, stand pipes, dummy plugs, rebuilt high pressure rails, and i still have issues. The icp readings on torque pro are mostly below 100 hot. I am clueless... I ordered the icp air fitting but it wont be here until tuesday.
View 9 RepliesI have late 2004 with 130k with a bpd egr cooler and new oil cooler and new ficm from Ed. Cat delete with no muffler. Everything else is stock I have a dash boss and was noticing some weird numbers. My check engine light came on but I couldn't get any codes with the dashboss. I started monitoring the egr error and saw some erratic readings really high negative numbers after I let the throttle off. The truck runs okay but was kinda starting slow. Could my egr valve be stuck? Could my short modified exhaust be messing things up?
View 7 RepliesMy ficm has been dropping to 44v occasionally so I have ordered a 270a alternator from Ed at ficm repair along with the complete battery cable kit. I also took ends advice and bought two new odyssey 65 series batteries. I went with bpd 6phase ficm though because I like the idea of the extra phases to share the load and back up the 4 primaries. I am also doing the blue spring upgrade while under the hood as well.
So my question is this.... My truck is bone stock no mod 53k mi. The bpd ficm can be set to 48,53 or 58 v. I do not see the need to do 58v but have seen a lot of guys doing the 53v option. What is the advantage of 53v? I know if you run 220 thru a 120v light bulb it will burn bright as hell for a little bit till it blows, is this the case with running a higher voltage ficm? Will it eventually wipe out injectors? Or even the ficm processor board? Should I just stay at 48v setting?
I'm afraid my FICM is on its way out. I'm getting voltages dropping to 46.5V about once a minute. Never goes below that. Then it'll bounce up to around 48.5. It gets low when I have to rev up and always coincides with the main voltage dropping to around 12.9V.
Now for my battery condition. They are about a year old. I think I have one with a bad cell. They'll drop into the low 11V range while cranking after glow plug light goes off. While driving, the main voltage never gets below 13.1 except for very short periods ... which coincide with the 46.5V output on the FICM. Gonna have them tested separately at advanced auto and see on has a bad cell.
So, is my FICM starting to go? Second question. What do I tell the folks at Advanced Auto about replacing both an not just one? I suspect they'll want to argue about it with me.
Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
Been having a problem with fuel pressure dropping under acceleration intermittently. Normally runs around 65psi, sometimes at idle or normal driving is only 55-60psi lately. Most of the time it has done this it dropped to 50 and I let of the pedal and it will slowly go back to around 55. Then I just baby it and it will slowly creep back up to 60 or maybe 65. A couple times it has gone below 50 after letting of the pedal and wouldn't go back up, so I actually pulled over and shut the engine off and cycled the key to get it back up. Once this happened while towing up a hill, I could only get to around 35mph really had to baby it and at the top I pulled over and cycled the key and it came right back up. At the time I attributed it to the steep hill, 11k trailer, and the tank only being about 1/4 full.
Since I put the fuel gauge on way before any of this started happening, it has always fluctuated 2-3psi at idle. I always thought it was kind of odd, maybe pointing to combustion gasses entering the injector through a bad seal or something weird like that, but a couple of people have told me that fluctuation is normal.
I'm thinking there's either a restriction in the fuel pickup or the pump is going bad. This problem happens even when the tank is full, but seems worse on a low tank. I change my fuel filters every 10k mi, I'm at about 9k right now so I guess it could be dirty filters? Got lots of towing over the passes coming up as fishing season is just starting and I'm sure we'll be spending as many weekends we can at the beach camping.
I can't get the damn auto unlock to work. I've enabled it and disabled it and nothing still reset it all and all that just got the truck....
View 7 RepliesIs there a way to auto engage the Tow/Haul mode when you plug in a trailer that requires brakes? Be nice since I sometimes forget to push the button after we stopped for lunch...
View 14 RepliesWhen I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
View 3 RepliesI got new auto-locking hubs. The updated ones. As I proceeded to replace them, I pulled out old ones and when driver side came out, there was like 1/2 ounce of water that flowed out from where the auto-locking hub would sit. Strange. I had changed out lines, vacuum pump, vacuum solenoid and reservoir. All new and dry. I blasted both sides down with brake cleaner to clean off old grease, let dry and installed new auto hubs. So far so good. Will test the ESOF feature another time. I was wondering where this water would come from? Other side of wheel hubs are dry.
View 2 RepliesI tried the methods that I could find on youtube but with no luck.... I do not have the option to change the settings in the message center either...
View 14 RepliesNew to the 4x4 6.0 just bought an 06' King Ranch 130K miles. My other truck is a 95' 7.3 non 4x4 now for sale. So the new to me 06' will not lock the hubs in Auto mode but will in Manual. I have good vacuum down to each wheel hub which is where my question is.
The vac port at either wheel I get 20-30hg however I believe this is only because something is plugged. If I pump up my vac tester to ~25hg right at the wheel port the needle doesn't move, holds vacuum, but does not Auto lock the hub. So I pulled out the Manual/Auto hub by removing the 3 torque screws thinking my vacuum should then go to 0 but it doesn't it stays right at ~25hg.
Before I bought the truck there was some work done to the front end. New ball-joints, Rt tie-rod and perhaps a few other things I haven't ID yet. Could my problem above be an axle seal or something else perhaps installed incorrectly causing the small vac hole going down inside the hub to be covered up or maybe plugged somehow? I believe to replace the ball joints the axle, hub and other parts have to be removed, correct?
I have a 2012 Lariat fairly well loaded out. However, the so called "auto" window button on the drivers door works auto in down only. Just curious if something is wrong with mine because it is will not do auto for raising the window. One would think that on a truck the auto would work both ways. I know on my Expedition it works both ways. Just wondering if mine was faulty before I go to the dealer.
View 8 RepliesBefore taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
When taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
View 14 RepliesJust notice this in the manual page 302 The vehicle should not be driven in 4x4 high or low with the lock hubs set to auto as this condition may damage driveline system components.
Page 303 It then goes on to say !!
Automatic operation of the hub locks is recommended and will increase fuel economy.
when using 4x4 once in awhile LOCK or AUTO
What are the most favorable low-side/high-side pressure readings for the AC when fully charged?
View 7 RepliesMy Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.