2003 F-350 dually. The brake lights will come on briefly then go off while the truck is sitting parked. Replaced the brake light switch on the pedal and it still does it.
View 10 RepliesMy 03 F350 lost the Brake Lights, and Code B1483 came up, which is the Brake Light Switch. Switch was replaced with new switch, with no change. The new switch was tested, and is working. The mechanic even replaced all the bulbs, which did nothing. The tail lights and turn signals work fine, just no brake lights. The mechanic even called the Ford Dealer in Boise, ID, and their service dept had no clue. What is everyone missing on this issue?
View 14 RepliesMy 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
My ABS light keeps coming on randomly. Sometimes it's on for a full day sometimes a few seconds. It's pretty weird because it doesn't throw a code or anything. Where to go from here.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 w/6.7 Powerstroke. Love it. In September I came out of work, turn the key to on position...no glow plug indicator light, no high pitch whine of the fuel pump and most importantly, it won't crank. Gauges all light up, but no glow indicator, no fuel pump sound and no crank. Get towed to dealer. Next morning they try it, and it starts right up. They can't get it to fail. Sent me home with no trouble found.
A few weeks later, same condition in my garage. I had thought that maybe there was some sort of safety switch that perhaps thought it wasn't in park. I put in neutral, roll back about 6 inches, glow plugs light, fires right up. Now I think I'm on to something. In the last 2 weeks, it happened 2 more times, and both times I'm able to get it to light up by rolling a couple inches. Then, last night, same problem, but parked against a curb. Try to push up hill, but no luck.
Have to get towed to dealer again. Tow truck drops at dealer, and because I knew it would, I tried to start, and it worked. Dealer called me, says they can't get it to fail (again), but found one battery was "bad". I'm not really buying the battery story, but also understand the dealer having trouble figuring out what is wrong when nothing goes wrong for them.
My truck will intermittently sound like an old 7.3 clattering away. It's done this for some time now. If I accelerate briskly it'll quiet down. When I first got it (used) it was quiet as a church mouse. It seems to normally be during the 1st 20min or so of a run. Weather and fuel doesn't seem to be a factor nor does it matter whether I have additive in the tank or not. My truck is a May '10 build 2011 with about 60k miles on it now.
Is this normal? Same 7.3 noise from the 6.7?
So you can see from the photo my AC condensor is pretty well f'd. My AC guy at work says I prolly wont be able to straighten the fins back out. My ac in the truck works when it wants to. At idle pretty well but driving it warms up. Sometimes works great, usually when its cold out. I'm sure this mangled mess isn't working. My question is, replace just yhe condenser or so compressor and accumulator at the same time? I don't know what is actually wrong with the system and don't "want" to spend the extra $ on the other items if I dont need them. But I kinda feel like I might as well.
View 14 RepliesRunning down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
View 14 RepliesDies while driving down the road and usually will restart with no problems.Seems to happen more often when it gets hot out. IPR/ICP are good.It took a long time to start once also. I'm leaning toward fuel pump but ?
View 14 RepliesHave been working on military diesels for years. I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0. I am currently waiting for a new oil cooler as I have oil coming from my coolant reservoir and no coolant in my crank. My question is I have been having my engine light coming on and off intermittently since deleting my EGR cooler.
View 6 RepliesHaving an issue with my 05 f350. Seems when I chomp on the the throttle I get tons of boost 30 lbs plus with no power. Seems most prevalent when starting on a hill , or hard on the throttle off the line . Also getting turbo "bark " when backing off throttle. It's less prevalent when feathering the throttle and usually more noticeable 1/2 throttle or more. I'm thinking could be the Vgt actuator or clogged/ dirty ebp sensor?
View 10 RepliesThis is a 2007, 143K F350 Sometimes will sit for a week before I use it. It has a mind of its own. Some days it will start right up and if I put it in gear it stalls. I have to wait for the EOT to come up to normal temps. Yesterday I drove it to the store that's a mile away and when I pulled into a parking spot it just stalled as if I turned it off. Doesn't happen all the time.
I do use a scan gauge on it all the time.
Cold Start
Key on Engine off
IPR-14.81
ICP- 0
FICM 48
Start up
IPR-31.21
ICP-917
FICM 48
MAP- 14.6
ECT 90
EOT 82
As its getting warm
ECT 126
EOT 111
IPR 27.3
ICP 712
put into R and Drive
ICP- 711
IPR 25.3
In Neutral
Brought RPMS up to 2000
IPR 32
ICP 1000
FCIM 48
RPMS at 3000
IPR 49
ICP 1800
FCIM 48
Back to Park and ideling
ECT 164
EOT 155
IPR 23.8
FCIM 48
MAP 15
ICP 585
I'm trying to elimate ICP and IPR, Do these numbers look correct?
I have a 2012 f350 srw that I'm trying to rectify an intermittent p1249 dtc. What I found initially was a broken vacuum line from the egr solenoid valve to the activator. This made the truck run good and the dtc code cleared. It came back two weeks later, the truck did not go into the reduced power mode. I pulled the MAP sensor to test it and it was completely plugged with soot.
I replaced the MAP sensor and removed the upper intake, cleaned out the soot, which was considerable, vacuumed out the lower manifold cleared the code. It went without a cel for about 1000 miles and came back. My questions are: where to go next and if the soot is normal for a 116K engine would I be better served by deleting the egr/dpf/def?
I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
Ok, so I have a 2004 F250, with 6.0L. when driving at a steady speed (doesn't matter what speed), the engine will run rough when coming to an idle, and stay running rough until I shut it off and let it sit for a bit.
After I cycle the key a few times it will fire up and run fine, so I came to the conclusion that air is getting in the fuel system. I then took the filter cap off that is located in the engine bay and cycled the key, which produced a lot of bubbles, which I am assuming shouldn't happen.
I guess my question is, should I have air bubbles in the filter bowl, when cycling the ignition?
Been having a problem with fuel pressure dropping under acceleration intermittently. Normally runs around 65psi, sometimes at idle or normal driving is only 55-60psi lately. Most of the time it has done this it dropped to 50 and I let of the pedal and it will slowly go back to around 55. Then I just baby it and it will slowly creep back up to 60 or maybe 65. A couple times it has gone below 50 after letting of the pedal and wouldn't go back up, so I actually pulled over and shut the engine off and cycled the key to get it back up. Once this happened while towing up a hill, I could only get to around 35mph really had to baby it and at the top I pulled over and cycled the key and it came right back up. At the time I attributed it to the steep hill, 11k trailer, and the tank only being about 1/4 full.
Since I put the fuel gauge on way before any of this started happening, it has always fluctuated 2-3psi at idle. I always thought it was kind of odd, maybe pointing to combustion gasses entering the injector through a bad seal or something weird like that, but a couple of people have told me that fluctuation is normal.
I'm thinking there's either a restriction in the fuel pickup or the pump is going bad. This problem happens even when the tank is full, but seems worse on a low tank. I change my fuel filters every 10k mi, I'm at about 9k right now so I guess it could be dirty filters? Got lots of towing over the passes coming up as fishing season is just starting and I'm sure we'll be spending as many weekends we can at the beach camping.
I have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
View 2 Replies Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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