Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Code For EGR Flow Restriction Cause Limp Mode?
May 3, 2017
I'm going to do a weld-in-plug delete in my RV in the next couple weeks, and its a crapshoot apparently if it'll throw a code. My immediate concern is I want to go on a trip right after, and I won't have time to fiddle about getting an SCT tuner to turn the code off. What I definitely don't want is a code for EGR flow restriction to eventually cause my motor to go into some kind of limp mode while I'm in the middle of a long drive. Is this possible?
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I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
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I was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.
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While exiting the interstate just now my 2011 f250 just went in to limp mode going up the ramp and cut off. I am sitting at the top of a very busy exit truck won't restart .
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What's the best tune for this motor? I have an hs mini max with the spe hot tune and has nothing but problems towing with with it. They swore up and down for a year I was the only one with issues for a year and then finally admitted it's not good for towing and lots of people had issues with it so they gave me their towing tune for free but it isn't very good either.
The hot tune is a little too hot and keeps going into limp mode when towing up hills even on the lowest stock setting, or really getting on the throttle on any setting not to mention way too high of boost for a stock turbo at 30-32 on every level . It makes sports cars look slow before hitting limp mode though.
Their tow tune fixed that problem but it's boost is too low at only 18-19 (had 24 running stock Ford programming) and it smokes like crazy, more smoke on higher settings without getting any faster or any more boost. It doesn't smoke much on the stock setting but clearly the other settings aren't very well tuned.
I want a tune that will tow 25k without issues and smoke(not literally) sports cars off the line at factory boost level s so it doesn't blow the turbo.
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What the problem is with my F-350 6.0. I have an intermittent problem with my Speedo reading zero while I'm doing 70mph on the fwy. since the speedo won't work the truck goes into limp mode, the turbo will not function at optimum level. I have replaced the diff. sensor, the trani sensor, the a.b.s.sensors, the instrument cluster to a reman cluster. Then when I had a local mechanic plug a laptop dianostic program on it as he was running through the system inadvertently the radio cut out, so I found that who ever installed the after market stereo they cut a few wires to the harness, I went to the junk yard found the harness end and replaced the end. so with all that said and done no one knows what is causing this speedo not to work and limp mode. about 4 years ago the oil pump stopped working and ruined the turbo so the whole front end of that glorious 6.0 was rebuilt the problem started about a year after that.
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My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
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My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
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I am driving a early 2004 F250 CCSB with a 6.0l. I have a Code that is for an EGR Low Flow. I have a Scan Gauge II that I have been using to try and determine why this is. I have replace the EGR Cooler (unrelated), the EGR valve, and the MAF.
My EVD and EVM are tracking. My IA1 reads a letter (B usually) and 3 numbers that are in the 6 to 900 range. My IA2 appears to read normal with atmospheric temps at start up and goes up and down IAW the EVD and EVM readings. My FIA (already programmed) reads outside temperature along with the overhead console. The EBP reading doesn't exist, it is blank.
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The truck in question is a 2004 6.0L Excursion, stock original turbo, no tunes, and EGR cooler delete done 1 year ago. Scanned for codes and none were found except for EGR insufficient flow P0401 code which is due to the EGR cooler delete.
Upon startup (no issues there) the VGT reads 67-70, now once the truck goes to high idle to warm up (1150 or so RPM) the VGT slowing climbs to 85 and stays there. If I blimp the throttle or step on the brake it goes back to 67-70 at normal idle. This has been happening for a few months now on a regular basis. I have checked the MAP, BARO, and EBP readings at KOEO and they are all within 0.6 of each other (14.4-15.0). The EBP tube was checked and cleaned (no buildup present)..
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My truck threw a P2073 code. Its Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Idle. I do have aftermarket intake. It threw this code 2 weeks after install. Does this mean my mass air flow sensor is going to fail soon?
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It happened to me. I was 2 hours into my trip and towing the camper when I got the reduced power CEL. I have 28,000 miles on my truck and always tow in "tow/haul" mode with the exhaust brake on. I was lucky in that I has on a limited access highway and just happened to be approaching an exit to a fuel station with big rig access. I limped in there at about 20MPH checked the code with my Forscan lite and found the P259F code. I typed that into Google and found a thread on another Diesel forum! Some guys said it went away after 3 or 4 restarts. So, I tried a couple of restarts...no luck.
I was down to half a tank of fuel so I filled up and parked. As long as I was parked, I went into the camper and used the bathroom. When I got back in the truck, I thought about the WiFi scan adapter plugged into my OBDII connector and wondered if I should unplug it. I did and everything worked! So, I drove the next 4 hours in "tow/haul" mode, but I left the EB off. I also never plugged in the WiFi scan adapter because I didn't want to risk going into the reduced power mode again. Anyway, we made it home without incident. One of the reasons I traded my 2013 in on a 2015 was to get the engine improvements and the EB. I sure don't want to give up the EB. I'm going to take mine to the dealer, but after reading this post, I'm not expecting anything much.
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4L V8 with no heat. It wasn't missing, running funny or blowing white smoke out of the tailpipe and there were no coolant leaks nor did it overheat. Thermostat has been replaced twice, heater core flushed twice, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced and blend door works...Cabin airflow gets colder when turned from hot to cold. This thing is sitting in my driveway and I am about to push it over a cliff. Did I mention it only has 56,000 miles on it?
Coolant was drained to replace water pump and flush heater core (again, water ran through in both directions with no stoppage). 3 gallons of undilluted antifreeze was put into the overflow bottle to be topped off with water...the coolant went in and stopped. Engine was started to force coolant from bottle...coolant backed up into the bottle and out the top. Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet hose not very warm if at all. Upper radiator hose is soft. Didn't check lower radiator hose as I was a bit peeved and slammed the hood closed and called it a night. I have been throwing money at this thing that I do not have and am at my wits end with it.
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I've done some searching on this site and found some good information but I still have some questions about Fuel Pressure and fuel flow. A few months back when I had a bad injector and bubble tested to verify and it took around 15 seconds to fill the bowl(filter removed) from near empty is that normal or the sign of a healthy HFCM?
Tonight I was able to check the fuel pressure for the first time and when I turned the key on fuel pressure was slow to build for 2-3 seconds held at 20 psi then spiked up to 62psi and stayed at that psi during the starting cycle and held steady during idle. Is it acceptable to hesitate with a pressure build at the beginning of the cycle?
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Is the irp high flow oil cooler any good? Or is it better to stay with the oem
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Just as the title says the ac on my truck is not blowing cold like it used to, it has enough air flow but it's just not cold?
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I just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
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I changed out my fuel filters today on my 2016 F350 SD and right parts, no leakes, main filter full, and I did the 6 cycle fuel pump prime. Turns over but won't Start. Redid the 6 cycle prime several times now and still no start. Pulled the 2ndary filter lines while it was priming to see if flowing and got squirted on both lines.
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Coolant flow seems to be not at its max output seems like it's blocked somewhere. Lots of pressure in bypass line of radiator after clamping of hose and releasing pressure of degas bottle?
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My 2010 Malibu has been throwing a code 0f 2135 also goes into limp mode. Code comes up as throttle pos sen. So looking I can see it is all built in one with the throttle body. Can it be changed with out any special tools?
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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