Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: High Trans Temp After 08 Pan And Filter Upgrade
Jun 4, 2015
Trans temp used to be about 185 max, now it's running side by side with coolant temps (200-203 with Mishy 200 thermostat) after I did the 08 pan and filter upgrades. I added 9.5qts after the change of Valv Max Life and checked and double checked the dip stick bout half way up hot. This is normal operating conditions, not towing anything. Checked with TorquePro App. Why it would run so high? Did I do something wrong?
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I notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
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I went to change the small filter that is mounted just behind the radiator and is inline with the 5r100 . with a socket on the bottom all i was able to do was flex the brackets going to the 3 mounting bolts as this thing is on there real good. Looking for examples on unthreading the bottom cup to access filter?
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Above 0 Cel.(32F.) 145 F-165 F. even in summer towing. Winter when it gets -20 my trans temp gets warmer (not towing 165.F or higher) When it gets to -30 my trans temp gets to 175 F. or higher I have never looked at trans temps before on any vehicle that I have owned. I like that these trans get warmer when it is cold out and colder when it is hot out.
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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I know they're supposed to be within 15 deg of each other. How bad is this? Pulling a small trailer with a polaris rzr on it. Running 75mph
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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I recently noticed on my truck that my oil temp was running high, I would go down the interstate at 75 mph and the oil temp would get up to 215-218 while my coolant temp would sit around 192-196. So, I took it into the shop and was told it was most likely a bad oil cooler and had it replaced 2 years ago when I had my injectors and gaskets replaced along with my egr deleted. So, got the truck yesterday, going 60mph down the highway, truck ran an oil temp of 192 and the coolant at 188. Was great, but later on once I got to the interstate going my 75 mph, The oil temp jumped to 209 and my coolant sat at 192. Not sure what the deal is, was told the oil cooler was replaced and wanted some input on what else I could be looking at. I currently have 5w40 synthetic oil running in it. I have an EDGE CTS tuner on it and tuned it back to stock mode, but oil temp still jumps up to 209 and coolant remains around 190-192.
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
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I'm excited to be a Powerstroke owner again! I had a 2000 with the 7.3L and since bought and now sold a Chevy 1500. Last week I bought a new 2015 6.7L. I am MORE than impressed and love the truck. Today I brought it to get the windows tinted. I have not had one issue with the truck since I have had it. When they finished with the windows, my check engine light was on. The shop I had it done it EXTREMELY reputable. They brought out their snap on scanner and pulled the code. p0073 for the ambient air temp sensor circuit high. Is this a coincidence that this came on after they got done, or could something they did while tinting the windows tripped this?
As I drove off down the road after determining I wasn't going to hurt the truck, the air temp sensor went from showing -40 to the actual temperature. What would cause this? I deleted the code when I got home with my actron, and the MIL has stayed off since, however, it shows P0073 Permanent ...
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I have own my 03 six liter since new.No issues and regular maintenance.So the time has come to upgrade,I'm thinking the 6.7 Is there anything I need to know about the 6.7? There all sorts of stories on the 6.0. I am looking at years 12/14. New is out because I only put on 5 to 7 thousand a year.
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Got the upgrade done this week to allow manual regen. Instruction sheet says 'press the 'Info' button until 'EXH FULL XXX%' illuminates. Not sure I have that button. I've scrolled through everything in the info center and am seeing nothing under any menu item that gets me even close.
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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I've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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When I pull the temp at times gets as high as 220. I do have a Trans. I do not allow the temp to get any higher (Royal Purple Trans Fluid).
I have 2 additional trans B&M coolers and the temp just goes up and up.
What I can do to get the temp down? I also have a ex large tran pan.
Side note: I have the BANKS 6gun kit installed with 4" exhaust. I normally have the 6Gun set at 3 or 4 while pulling.
My # is 360- Nine nine one-35 eight eight.
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IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
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