Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
View 2 RepliesIm replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release.
View 2 Replies2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
View 13 RepliesI replaced my hydroboost unit about 10,000 miles ago. Today I noticed it was wet under the unit. Only this time, it's not red PS fluid, rather, it is brake fluid. So, I assume the master cylinder is leaking and winding up under the hydroboost unit via gravity. Or at least that's my theory.
Any way Rockauto lists 2 motorcraft master cylinders.
One is BRMC-26 for Hydroboost
The other is BRMC-27 for speed control.
I have obviously Hydroboost, but also have speed control.
Stopped after a hard pull and noticed I had coolant dripping off the front sensor on the Brake Master cylinder. Coolant level was down in the Degas bottle. Searched everywhere for the source of the leak, and couldn't see anything. Today the drip had stopped, but when I squeezed the rear heater return hose under the Degas bottle it appeared to have a wet spot form.
I'm thinking I have a very tiny pin hole, and plan on pressurizing the system to see if I can determine for sure this is where it is. Before I do though, where this high pressure leak might be coming from? Degas bottle and cap is less than a year old. Doesn't appear to be any signs of leaks around the clamps. That rear heater hose.
I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
So I take my new (for me but used) 2007 F350 to the local Ford Dealer to have the oil changed, along with fuel and water separator filters. I even added some Archoil 9100 since it treated my 03 so well. Since I had no history of the last change I wanted to do it right away.
While its on the lift he notices a leak near the hydroboost. I think there on crack...but that's my opinion.
Anyways I look at it and I see a leak at one of the connections under the Master Cyl. Its the connection closest to the firewall. My question is there a oring in there that can be replaced or will I need to replace the entire part?
I've been watching fluid build up on what I think is the hi-pressure line on the hydroboost. It appears to be originating at the coupling in the line because it is dry back at the unit.
Is there an o-ring or nylon washer in this fitting?
Can it be tightened?
Does the o-ring or washer need to be replaced?
Is it a sign of something else, like a build up of pressure in the line that is too high?
I currently have zero problems or noise coming from the steering or brake system.
I have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
I tried to replace my brake master cylinder today but wasn't able to because of a plug
It's the black plug on the drivers side, the connector is upside down so I can't see how to unplug it I tried for an hour then got too frustrated I had to come inside
My Haynes manual says "unplug" obviously
I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesThe new to me 2012 dually has lost its keyless entry code card. I know on the 08-10 models you could look up behind the radio to see the code. Looking for physical location on the 6.7 family?
View 8 RepliesI figured I would try my hand at making a video because I find them useful.. Anyway, if you plan on dropping the DEF tank and /or replacing the heater/sending unit.
2011 -2014 Ford DEF tank removal / sending unit replacement - YouTube
Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
View 2 RepliesSo I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
Had a lot to do yesterday and had stock trailer hooked up and loaded with debris.
Got 120 miles away, stopped and got the groan from hydroboost/p/s system.
The hose from the pump to the hydroboost was leaking but it was the actual seal on the fitting that gave up rather than the rubber.
Could not find the seal but luckily the Irish place had the line in stock for a reasonable place.
Transmission got hot too backing up and puked out the front seal. I was doing a lot of twisting to get the trailer in the hole.
My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
I have a 06 f250 with 135k that I keep getting a #2 contribution code. Power balance shows cylinder 2 low as well. No circuit codes and everything sounds good on a buzz test. Valvetrain is actuating as expected. I changed all 8 injectors w/ motorcraft with no luck. I get over 300 psi on a compression test ( 175 psi on 1st stroke then maxed my gauge on the 2nd). It smokes until I disable cylinder 2 then it pretty much clears up. I did notice I could move the top of the valve stems about 1/16", this seems really sloppy. Very little blow by and the oil cap stays on up side down until it rattles off. Any other 8 deal other than pulling the heads? I just bought this truck and have little history on it.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 with a powerstroke 6.0. I have done the egt delete and oil cooler upgrade. Last weekend I did head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, injector o rings, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, glow plugs, glow plug harnesses, water pump, and exhaust gaskets. After everything was done and truck was primed and started it ran really rough. I drove it a little to possibly purge any air and it still ran rough and I got a code p0275 for cylinder 5 contribution. I removed valve cover and oil rail and swapped injector 3 and 5. 5 was covered in fuel. After reinstalling oil rail I cranked engine over and saw cylinder 5 intake valves were not moving. Removed rail and rockers. Pulled push rod and it was bent. Installed new push rod a and reassembled. Crank engine over to verify all rockers were moving. Reinstalled valve cover and started truck. Truck ran great. Cleared codes and test drove. After test drive truck sounded like it was missing so I checked the codes again and p0275 was back! I know at this point I need to check the harness but any other possibilies you may know of? FICM voltage it good at 48v and oil pressure reads good as well.
View 7 RepliesI bought an 06 6.0 f 350 4x4 dump bed cheap. seller said it was sitting for 1-2 years and wouldn't start. ficm is at 48 volts fuel pressure is at 100 oil pressure builds fine, then checked compression and reading no compression in any cylinder. My mechanic says new motor or possibly both head gaskets are blown.
View 14 Replies