Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Crank Mainly During Colder Temps - Code P0341
Oct 9, 2016
I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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A Little Background, my FICM wasn't bad per se but it would dip below 45 volts when the outside temp was around freezing. I pulled it and sent it for repair at the same time the Atlas 40 tune was loaded into the FICM.
First few days of driving mileage was better, truck ran great. All of a sudden one day pulling into the driveway it randomly shutoff. Two occasions since it has acted goofy at started, bucking a little a low throttle. Mileage has returned to how it was before I had the FICM fixed and ATLAS tune applied. To this point I had no codes at all.
Now today it randomly throws P0341 - Camshaft sensor out of range.
So heres the question - do I replace the sensor or try to get at the harness for inspection? Out of range would usually mean the sensor itself is failing while open circuit is usually wiring related. I know its uncommon for this particular sensor to fail but i'm not sure which direction to go.
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My 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
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So I was have a problem the other day with code p2285 did some more checking and found an hpo system leak. Bad injector o ring. I have fixed that. But now when I got it all put back together and went to start it up now have no crank at all, the wrench light is coming on, when I hook up my scangauge it will not connect (so I can't get any readings or codes) I have checked all the fuses that have to do the the ignition system.
They all seem fine. I can get it to crank if I jump the starter wire to the battery. I really need to get this figured out my mini Cooper is waiting for a new clutch to get here and with my truck down I can't get to my job sites next week. I don't know of its just a coincidence or not but while trying to get he truck to start my batteries got drained so got them charged and one was bad (it's less then a year old).
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So my 04 f350 was running fine good power and everything till I shut it off a couple days ago and now when it is cold it fires right up but when the truck warms up it just cranks and cranks .... only code I throwing is p2285
Key on engine off
Ipr-14.8
Icp-0
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine running
Ipr-33.5
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp-875
I thought I fixed it before but I was sadly mistaken replaced the ICP and IPR...
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So the truck wont start, no crank no nothing all lights work etc. I am getting the icp code. I replaced the icp and the pigtail about a year or so ago what should I be looking at?my icp voltage is .22 volts with the koeoff. While trying to crank it I get no change in voltage. My ipr is at 14.8 and the ficim is at 47. Also when I unplug the sensor it still does nothing...
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Long crank to start hot and cold. Acts like missing when its cold tho and when it warms up it runs ok but it will set code weafher warm or cold and u can turn it out with scan tool and drive and it wont come back till restarted again...
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So yet another crank no start. Truck is an 03 55k miles The guy I bought the truck off of told me the turbo had been reconditioned about 1000 miles ago. Drove the truck another 1000 miles or so and now having issues. I went to start truck up and noticed it took awhile longer than normal to start up and when it did finally kick over, truck and no power at all. Would idle a bit rough sounded like no turbo spool at all when given throttle. Shut the truck off right and hooked up scangauge to it went to start it and nothing.
Did throw p2285 code ICP low circuit
Values read on scangauge are as follows:
FICM Main Power 48.0V
FICM Logic Power 10-8V
FICM sync is good
ICP Pressure 1540psi on crank
IPR duty cycle 14.8% Key on engine off/48.8% while cranking
At a bit of a loss as to where to look next, would really like to troubleshoot down to the right fix instead of just throwing parts at it. Have read after sitting the turbos tend to stick and need cleaned or replaced. After being cleaned only a few thousand miles could it be stuck again? Seems like I have spark, fuel, oil just acts like its not getting any air.
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I have a new(and flushed) oil cooler and new thermostat and my coolant and oil temps never go above 190. They are always within 3 degrees at most but is this actually losing fuel mileage? I thought these were good numbers, could be wrong though.
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Last year while towing my fifth wheel to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon my oil temp went to 260 degrees several times. The outside temps were 95 degrees at the start and it is a long steep climb with a heavy load. Each time I pulled over for a bit, as I couldn't remember at what temp that plastic thing inside the oil filter melted. Each time it cooled off fairly quickly but it really stressed me out. So how hot can the oil get. I am using Rotella T-6 and my temp different is only 12-15 unloaded. Could I allow 280 for 15 minutes or so?
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I am looking for some insight on an issue before I lose sleep over head gaskets. Headed out today in the truck, and no heat whatsoever. Im thinking maybe a vacuum issue, but 4wd (esof) and all vents move just fine. About 10 miles in I over heated at 236 ect. After cracking the coolant cap there was no coolant. I havent actively monitored it but last i checked was fine.
The exhaust does not smell sweet and I see no puddles or any evidence of coolant splatter before today when i refilled it today. There was some tonight but im thinking that's from me spilling some today. Egr is also blocked off. I need the truck soon for plowing so need this resolved asap.
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New 6.0 owner having some issues. I have read just about everything I can find on the ECT/EOT problem.
208K on it, its been studded, running a full banks system. Factory size tires. Since buying it I have drained and flushed with distilled 4 times before new ELC coolant (system looks very clean, no debris found at all), T6 oil change and cleaned the air filter.
I am having a large delta on ECT and EOT. Here's some data from today's run. There is a lot of it. Readings from every minute.
Ambient Temp 118 today, took it for a run up the highway cruised north at 65 mph and back south at 75mph. I was driving on Saturday at 75mph and got the wrench light for excessive delta with 232 degree EOT.
45mph on the way to the Freeway- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
65mph after accelerating lightly- ECT 197.6, EOT 216.4
10 miles later, flat 65mph cruise set, it maintained a reasonable temp hold and reached max of ECT 199.4, EOT 218.7
After 2 minutes of coasting down off-ramp and sitting at a light- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
after reaching 75MPH moderately- ECT 201.2, EOT 216.5
1 mile later, holding 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 220.2
2 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 224.6
3 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 225.2
4 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 226.4
5 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 227.3
6 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 228.2
7 miles at 75mph- ECT 206.6, EOT 228.5
8 miles at 75mph - ECT 208.4, EOT 231.0
At this point I dropped cruised and coasted to the next exit, a mile down.
After coasting to exit and sitting for a minute- ECT 201.2, EOT 221.0
After a mile at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 221.6
2 miles at 45mph, lightly on throttle- ECT 204.8, EOT 221.0
After idling stopped for a few minutes- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.8
Driving again lightly at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 211.5
Am I just ignoring the obvious oil cooler issue or is this a water pump, etc? I changed out the thermostat again for another motorcraft unit after Saturdays hot run. I swear it did not run this hot when I got it... but I question if they were running nearly 100% water in the system. What EGR cooler there is, if there is a way to tell without disassembly?
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It's been pretty smooth sailing since I installed my BPD oil cooler a couple months ago, oil temps are great now. However, in the last month or so, since the outside temps have gotten hot, I'm noticing that my coolant temps seem to be a little higher than they should. I put a new Ford thermostat in it back in the fall when I flushed the coolant system and refilled with EC1 coolant. The temps I'm seeing range from 206 up to 222 and I have seen as high as 230 when I was going up a long grade on a hot day. This is not towing.
The fan does kick on like it should, or at least I think its working properly. When the temp gets to 210-212 I can hear the fan a little, when the temp gets to 219 I can really hear the fan. It usually cools it back down pretty quick unless I'm headed up a long grade. Am I wrong in thinking these temps are too high for a 192 degree stat? My worst fear of course is head gaskets even though I don't have any other HG symptoms. No coolant loss, no puking. What other things should I check first? A new thermostat would be easy enough but I don't know if that would be the issue or not.
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I have a 2007 F250 with the 6.0. Towing up a long hill my truck went into limp mode. I didn't have gauges at the time so I didn't know what my temps were. I now have gauges. I know that the coolant and Oil temps should not be more than 10-15* apart, but what is the max temp that oil should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill? Also, what is the max temp that coolant should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill?
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I was towing the 5er (about 15000#), across Southern Mn and SD today going right into a 20-25 mph wind in upper 90 temps, saw 228 on the oil temp and 199 on the tranny temp. When tow need to see for warmest temps and at what point you start to get concerned...
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Took a trip today that was 3 hours there and 3 hours back. Truck ran normal on the way there (eot about 202 and ect about 196-198), but on the way back truck ran a little hotter than normal (ect as high as 214 eot stayed within 2-3* plus or minus ect). Fan did kick on every time I hit ect of 212 and would drop it down to 196-198 and oil temp would drop at the same rate.
Truck is stock 190k miles with a bulletproof egr cooler and coolant filter. Oil cooler probably has about 20k on it. (4th one on this truck- since I like changing them out as much as the rest of us). I checked coolant level when I got home and I might've added a pint to get to bottom of sticker. I'm not sure it wasn't a pint low when I did last flush and cooler replacement.
No puking and I can't find any leaks. I pulled egr valve and no moisture in manifold just a worm out o ring that'll I'll replace. I can't find any leaks. Where to check that I haven't? I don't feel like I'm losing coolant because I wasn't really low. My fan never failed to kick on when I hit 212 or stopped at a red light. No moisture in manifold so I'm not thinking losing coolant due to head gasket. Maybe radiator looks ok but tomorrow I will blow out any bugs to make sure.
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I'm trying to chase down a couple of issues and I need to be able to monitor the coolant (and oil) temps. I've downloaded the manual and the specific 6.0 X Gauge commands but don't see the coolant temps listed.
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This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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On my 2005 F350 Super duty 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel I have extremely high oil temps when towing and also have a warm start problem. I need to tackle both these problems at the same time but I am struggling to find the correct (and still affordable) parts for this. My local parts store and Ford dealer are way over priced.
First, I need an oil cooler (truck has an EGR delete so no EGR cooler).
Second, I want to replace all the seals in the high pressure oil system and replace the HPOP elbow.(Already replaced IPR)
Third, I would like to do the Blue Spring update as well while I am in there.
Looking for part numbers or kits numbers. I usually do all my own research but right now I am way too swamped at work and home to find these parts.
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2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
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