Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
On my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
I was sitting at a light and when it turned green I hit the gas pedal and had no response engine was idling perfect and a wrench light came on , I then shut off the truck restarted it and light was off hit the gas it came back on and it was intermittent with taking so I replaced the pedal and it is still doing it...
View 7 RepliesRecently I have encountered another issue. Truck started up fine, at first stop light and truck was bogging down, RPMs jumping up and down slightly and sounded like it was going to die. Light turned green, gave it gas, no response. Gas pedal was dead. After restarting the truck I was able to give it some gas until I came to the next stop light and this repeated. Eventually a few moments later I got a check engine light. Drove home this way, seemed to be working fine as long as I was actually driving and not stopped.
All the parameters looked ok except for the battery, that jumped up and down in volts as the engine sounded like it was bogging down then eventually died. New batteries put in approx 2 months ago. The check engine light is showing "P0299 turbo/supercharger underboost". I have attached an image of this check engine light according to my monitor.
i have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
View 8 RepliesTrying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
So a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
I have an 04 6.0 psd and if I am stopped in drive with the brake pedal down I can't turn my steering wheel at all. If the truck is in park and my foot off the brake pedal I can turn the steering wheel both ways just fine. When I am driving I don't have any problems with the steering. I have checked the power steering fluid and it is full. This makes it kind of hard when I am trying to pull in and out of parking spots. What could be causing this and what the solution would be to fix it?
View 10 RepliesI have an ABS issue. Coming off the free way ramp my abs will engage when I apply the brake peddle. This only happens turning right. doing the same to the left seems to feel something but not as apparent as to the right. I have no ABS light on and no code.
Last year I replaced the left front wheel hub. but didn't have any issues until this. One more thing I was getting a feeling on my brake pedal last week as if my front rotors needed to be replaced. So I did. Rotors and pads. still feel the same. could my rear rotors need replacing as well?
I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
View 14 RepliesI have an issue with my 2011 SD. When i press on the brake pedal I get a message saying I have a trailer connected and then when I step on the brake pedal again it says trailer disconnected. This happens every time I touch the brake pedal. I have replaced the trailer connector 7 way plug thinking that was the issue to no avail.
View 3 RepliesYour breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
View 13 RepliesSo while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
So I was driving to work and the truck lost throttle response. There was very little of it! Came to a stop then it didn't barely want to move, pulled over then it died on me! No clue what to look at! 2005 6.0 232k miles
View 14 RepliesI just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.
Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.
Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.
Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good
Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge
Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service
This is my first winter with my 6.7 and I've noticed that since the weather has been cold the motor rattles a lot more, doesn't seem to want to rev as freely and it seems like the turbo response is slower. I've noticed that my truck goes into exhaust cleaning more frequently, three times in the last week before Christmas. The transmission thumps on downshifts the colder it is. The first shift out of my driveway is between a thump and a bang. The dealer told me I'm not ready for a trans flush, it's not cold enough to need to use the engine heater and that some of the noise and lack of performance could be winter blend fuel.
View 8 RepliesI've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.