Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Little Red Battery Icon Lit Up On The Dash
Oct 18, 2012
Our 2011 SD 6.7. 190,000 km Came home after a week off and started the truck up via the command start, when I got in it the little red battery icon was lit up on the dash. Well this is my 3rd SD and in the past I always ended up needing an alternator when that light came on. So off to the dealer and was about to replace it, the service rep. stated the alt. was ok and there was something else wrong and it was turning the light on.
So you think here goes my next weeks pay looking for the Needle in a hay stack. Guys the Tech who is a great guy found a 18 guage red wire that runs from the pass. side battery under and infront of the motor not in any real wire harness and it goes to the alt. had some corrosion forming in under the insulation causing some resistance, and it was telling the system to turn the dash light on.
The tech replaced the bad wire and all is good now. Also you can test the out put of the Alt. and it will show around 15 volts with the truck running even with the red icon on, so you will know it's the bad wire and not an Alt.
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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Whose bright idea was it to have the damn tray attached to the puke tank making it impossible to remove by itself? What am I doing wrong?
I'm replacing my batteries and one of the hold down bolts slipped down off the tray underneath it somewhere. I removed all the bolts holding in the tray and find that it is attached to the puke tank?! (Coolant reservoir). How the heck to I get to that bolt?
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On a 300 mile round trip yesterday the service engine icon came on and stayed on. This happened once before last December after I bought my used 012 250 6.7. I took it back to the ford place and a mechanic cleared it on the gauges. This truck has correct oil and fluid levels. How to clear? It has been 4000 miles since they changed the oil and filters an I want to go a couple more K miles before I change it myself...
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Couple of weeks ago, the display in the instrument panel displayed a large orange wrench. No accompanying text or chimes, just the damn wrench. Checked for codes, nothing out of the ordinary (I occasionally get communication codes, but they usually show up when I do not wait to start). Long story short, the damn thing showed up one more time the same day, then never again.
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in my 2011 jetta i got a low tire pressure icon on my dash, turns out there was a nail in my tire, i repaired it and filled all of my tires to the ideal tire pressure and now 3 days later the icon still shows on my dash....?
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I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
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Stopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
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I am looking for a source for switched power under the dash. I am going to wire up power to my TST507 TPMS but I would like to have switched power. I have a bundle of wires all capped off under there but no idea if any are switched power. I thought I would ask before trying to probe each and every one.
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Got a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
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2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
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Simple question for the group as I learn about my new B.O.A.T 6.0 diesel.
What is that blue light left of the steering column yet on the dash?
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I finally have the OBD II reader and running the Dash command on an iPhone 5s. I have downloaded the Ford Super duty 6.7 Skin for the dashboard. It seams to be reading most information but It will not give me the exhaust gas temperature. Not only that, I am still trying to set up some gauges with difficulty. Is there something else I should be doing or setting for this reading. Or is there a different Apple app that I should be using?
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I found out by accident that my vacuum pump is now running all the time. It's not the gray line to the heater valve and it's not the vacuum canister as I already checked the easy stuff. I need some direction where to start looking under the dash as I have never been under that part of my truck. Any common issues or where to look?
More information: The pump only runs all the time when the HVAC control is set to OFF or MAX AC.
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
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Had the truck detailed. They do underhood cleanup as part of the service. Ended up with a CEL due to P0113 ITA Hi code. Truck goes back and forth between normal and reduced power. The A/C goes on and off as well. Truck is going in for service on Monday anyway. What they could have touched or how the A/C is affected?
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