I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
View 14 RepliesChanged my filters and this was in the bottom of the filter housing. I looked on the pleats and down in the center didn't find anything. Went to two Ford diesel techs one said is was the hpfp and should do the the whole fuel system. The other said if the hpfp was coming apart the shaving would not be in the bottom of bowl and to check the filter again in 5k miles. No check engine light, drives great, no other problems.
View 14 RepliesHere is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
I think my starter took a s hit like I said truck randomly doesn't crank all lights on dash come on can hear injectors buzzing turn key nothing. Took wire off passenger's side of truck yellow wire touched to pos post solenoid click no crank. So I had the old lady sit in the drivers seat well I hit the starter with my BMFH started right up could something else cause this or should I just bite the bullet and replace the starter?
View 7 RepliesI bored and tapped one of the spark plug holes in my Triton engine. And I used a long aluminum rod attachment for my air compressor to blow out the metal bits from inside the cylinder. I started with a full tank of air, and used it all up to try and get everything out that I could. But with my bore-scope I could see a lot left over along the edges of the piston. So two more times I filled up, and emptied the air tank (15 gallons, 150psi). Some more of the chips came out, but after the second time there were still some chips there, and the third time didn't work much.
My bore-scope doesn't have the best resolution, but I think there are a few chips that are stuck between the piston and the cylinder wall. Since there were only a few, and they are aluminum, I decided to do what I saw another youtuber do. I just started the engine for a few moments without the spark plug, so I might blow out any remaining chips (although he did it without first using compressed air at all.)
That was the first cylinder I bored, tapped, and installed an insert into. But for the other cylinders, I would like to avoid any metal bits left in the cylinder. But I can't think of any way to prevent some from wedging themselves between the piston and wall (if that's what is happening).
Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
On my 97... Last summer my compressor started to spit out metal shavings and when i took it to be recharged one of the hoses had a leak and there were shavings in the line. I replaced the compressor, that line that leaked and the can looking thing (accumulator?). I also got the orphase tube but I didnt know where it went and told the guys that were going to charge it to replace it. Well it was still sitting on the console and they didnt put the new one in. Well it worked fine last year but now its acting up. It will blow cold air when the motor is over 1000rpms but cuts out at random times and blows hot air. Im not sure if I need to get that orphase tube replaced and have it charged again or if its some vacuum issue. What I should do?
View 8 RepliesCouple weeks ago fuel tank started coming apart clogged all filters. Replaced tank filters and fuel pump and blew out all of lines. Started and ran fine. Stays plugged in over night but now it'll crank but wont start. No codes showing up or anything...
View 1 RepliesMy truck started to display exhaust filter clogged and cleaning exhaust filter multiple times today. The cleaning exhaust message stayed on until I hot OK and then it comes back later. Not sure what this means?
View 14 Replies2016 F350 6.7; ccsrw, 22K on truck (zero issues previously). Stock other than titan fuel tank that was installed at 100 miles.
700 miles into todays trip, pulling trailer, snowing, in 4x4, tow/haul; pulled out to pass, got into it for a bit and got "reduced engine power" error, truck slowed, would not show boost on gauge, wouldn't rev over ~1900. CEL is on.
Pulled over, stopped, checked under/over and didn't find anything. Shut off truck, started back up, CEL is still on, but truck runs OK. Ran for another 20 miles or so and was OK for how I drove it (including boost showing on gauge). Not hot rodding, crappy road conditions (snow). Got on a big hill from dead start and got into it a bit, about 3K same error came on and she went back into limp mode. Same deal, stopped, shut off, back on, was able to keep going. Was only couple miles from motel at that point, so she is on break right now.
Of course I'm 400 miles from home and nowhere near a dealer. I have a code scanner, but nothing with me to pair it with (daughter has tablet with her, ha ha).
Should I keep going or find a dealer/tow/other? If she will keep running "normally" below 3K, then I can make it home as I don't need to horse it that bad on the roads I'll be on.
Truck has had fuel filters replaced on schedule, dealer has done all service work (oil, etc). Fuel filters were done 7500 miles ago.
This trip, was on third tank of fuel. Had just put in 30 gallons at last (big) truck stop about 15 miles before this issue happened, have 50 miles on this tank. That was 30 gallons into 50 gallon tank.
i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
View 2 RepliesI know I have a clogged oil cooler and normally I'm not home much during the summer months to know how it does during the summer. The outside temperature is around 95*, but the thermostat on the Ex is reading from 102 to 112, and it actually read 122 yesterday. Also, with the hot weather, I'm not noticing the fan kicking on under normal driving without a load. The AC is working, but it's not the ice cold AC I'm use to and does get better while cruising down the highway.
View 2 RepliesI have replaced all the injector seals as well as the ball cup seals but when I crank the truck over after a few cranks I see oil bubbling up from the top of all the injectors. When looking at the injectors from the "top" side all looks well but when I use an inspection cam from down below I can see this happening. Any thoughts?
View 9 RepliesI found some 04 injectors for a good price, will the work on my 06?
View 9 RepliesMy new 2016 F350 6.7, every single time I start the truck, I get the low oil pressure light. Even after letting the truck idle. I'm concerned because I have no gauge inside to see what it's running and I also have what sounds like a can of rocks noise at idle and when I'm slowly accelerating I hear a clacking noise. Is this normal or should I be headed to the stealership? Truck only has 1100 miles. I've owned it 3 weeks and this is really making me wonder. I forgot to add that I'm in Louisiana and it's not often really cold. It was 84 today and I had the same thing. Even after I drove it and turned it off. Started it back up, same light.
View 14 RepliesIs there a way to shut off the TPMS? Can you adjust the working pressures? My 2016 F350 which I have had now for 3 weeks, has 65psi in the front and the rear is 80psi. which empty rides like a rock. I want to lower it down to 60psi (rear). This made a heck of a difference on my 2008 Dually. Think that will cause a light?
View 10 RepliesMy Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.