Is there an alert setting to signal when a regen starts? My engine stumbles badly a few seconds after a regen starts. The dealer hasn't found the problem. Right now I just keep an eye on the soot level gauge.
View 14 RepliesI am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
Where to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
'03 Excusion 6.0psd....new batteries a year ago, new starter a month ago, head gaskets etc a year ago....
Today I go out and start it up, no problem. Gather up the kids and head out to load up. When I climb in, I hit the unlock button to make sure the kid's doors are open and the engine stumbles.
I thought maybe I was imagining things so I hit it again and the same thing happened but it died but fired right back up. Drove the kids to school and it ran fine, no problems.
I have a PS 6.0 in my '04F350 that starts very reliably but stalls within 1-2 seconds. Restarts after cranking for 5-30 seconds. This only occurs if the truck sits for more than 6 hours. The longer the truck sits, the longer it has to crank to restart. Also if the tank is full and the truck is parked pointing down hill this does not occur, if it is parked pointing up hill it occurs even with a full tank. Shows no codes. I've had several mechanics look at it and no one has been able to explain or propose a solution expect for wholesale replacement of parts. The symptoms indicate to me that air is getting into the fuel system but I'm not sure where to look.
View 10 RepliesOn the way in to work this morning, I get the "Cleaning Exhaust Filter" message. This was great because I still had about 15 minutes of driving left and it usually comes on right when I am pulling into my driveway. As soon as the regen starts, I can smell diesel exhaust/fumes in the cab (this is going 70 mph on the freeway). When the regen was done, the smell went away. Is this normal? I could understand if I was sitting still getting some exhaust in the cab, but moving at full speed everything should be blowing away. This is my 4th or 5th regen and the first time I have noticed it.
View 14 RepliesOver the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
View 14 RepliesI just had my thermostats replaced in my 6.4, and I'm concerned about the regent process. I read that when the P0128 code is thrown, truck will not go into regen. Is this true? How can I manually start the regen process?
View 1 RepliesI purchased a 2016 f350 XLT 6.7 it's basically two weeks old with roughly 1500 the horsepower and fuel economy is incredible however it's developed a terrible shake during regen. It occurs every time regen and shifting down isn't working. Hard to believe a two week old truck has to go back to the dealer and from what I'm reading it sounds like they're not solving it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
View 5 RepliesHave any of you had your 6.7 'stumble' on take off while pulling a heavy load? This is the third trip mine had done it in a row. When starting from a dead stop, the truck almost goes dead for just a second, then picks up and runs normally. No codes, no CEL. Has only done it once while unloaded. Starting to bother me while pulling into traffic. ALSO, I have the high idle hooked up and the truck does the same thing when switching on the high idle. It bogs down momentarily then runs as it should. Filters have 6k on them. No mods to the truck as far as engine and electronics are concerned. My dealer is about 65 miles away and would need to have 5er in tow to replicate. It feels as if it starving for fuel for a split second. Other than this and my backup camera that I'm still waiting on, this truck has been flawless. I know it needs to go to dealer, but will be such a hassle to duplicate without camper.
View 14 RepliesLast week I picked up a 2016 F-350 with the 6.7 diesel. Since then I have put about 4500 miles on it and gone through 2 or 3 regenerations. About half the miles were empty, half were with about 1500lbs of cargo in the bed. Mostly interstate driving at about 70mph.
However, every time the "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes on in the screen it feels like the truck looses all power for a second. The first time I was going up hill with cruise control set at 70 and it felt like stomping the brakes then hitting the gas all within a second maybe.
Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
View 14 RepliesRecently picked up a 2004 Ex 6.0L. Drove great for a bit, then it started shift badly, then finally the Tow/Haul light came on. The original codes were P0976 and P0755.
P0755 being shift solenoid B, and the P0976 being SSB Control Circuit low. I replaced Solenoid B and that code went away.
P0976 stayed with no change in how the truck drives. Replaced the internal harness today, and again no change.
At this point I'm at a loss. I'm wondering if it's something between the PCM and the transmission?
I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
The EMS service in the county next to ours lost one of it's new trucks for a few days on Tuesday. While going on a call, the engine made a tapping sound for only a few seconds, then a loud pop and shut off. Ford dealer went and picked it up and took it in for evaluation. VERDICT: Broken rod and cracked block. I have to say, this is the first I've heard of a 6.7L having a problem like this in our area.
Ford was really interested in this engine, as a new one is already on the way and the old one is to be shipped back for complete breakdown. So far, the Director and County Manager have been impressed with Ford's response to this problem. Dealer has told them the truck should be ready by the middle to end of next week. If I hear anything else, I will let you know. Any engine can break at any time, I'm just glad they are moving quickly to rectify the situation.
Last week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
I have a may 2003 6.0l f350 4x4 ,autoenginuity scanner, recently bought the truck starts fine and idles well then when engine get warm it starts to smoke unburnt fuel (white) volume of fuel desired on scanner goes from about 14 mm~3 to 27mm~3 and starts to run rough if you depress the acellerator the motor smooths out and the fuel desired goes down. No coolant smell. egr cooler removed ,oil cooler replaced, exhaust back pressure sensor and tube cleaned .ebp sensor koeo 14.2, eo 17 but jumped to 54.0 when map was at 17, bp 31.20 .... The AE is new to me Also found a superchip tuner under the back seat ...
View 14 RepliesI am a longtime 7.3 IDI guy with an 88 F350 crew so i know about diesels. But this is my first electronic diesel. I picked up a 2001 F450 2wd auto 260k miles. it used to be my work's truck but was stitting for a year and now i got it in "non running condition"
I towed it home and got it started by replacing the batteries and using the block heater.
As expected it took a few tries of long cranking to run the first time. runs pretty good and no smoke. what surprised me is it still takes about 5 sec of cranking to restart each time when warm too. any direction you would look with those symptoms? HPOP, IPR?
i am pretty sure the glow plugs all work because mechanics had replaced all that stuff. but i know back when the truck was last used it would still never start cold unless plugged in (even in summer).
Trucks been running perfect for 11,000 miles atleast. its last issue was a bad turbo but that was my fault. No issues whatsoever since. 10 miles down the road from work last night truck had a slight miss in between 55-60 for four or five seconds, I put the pedal down and brought it up to 75 or so just to see if it was my imagination and it felt fine so i wrote it off. It ran fine to the house we're working on i wanted to check on before I got home.
Parked it, it idled down to 650 before it came back up to 750 and it never does that and sounded different then it usually does. so i felt something was definitely up. i shut it off, was at the house about a half hour before i decided to head home, started and ran fine, three miles down the road the slight miss came back, it seemed to go away if i got on it pretty good and when i let off but just cruising with slight throttle it had the slight miss.
Got to my road where i had to slow down and turn and it idled down and died. I coasted over, unplugged the icp sensor and it cranked for 10 seconds or so and lazily came back to life. I got it home running decent and parked it. Scanned it with my old super chips tuner and it came up with a p0340 camshaft position code.
Matched my symptoms i felt so this morning i decided id go back to work and grab my spare out of my wrecked truck. truck started and idled perfect. made it to the end of my driveway before the miss came back and then it just died. took the car to work, grabbed my spare camshaft sensor and my maximus scanner, came home scanned it, no returning p0340 cam code but i swapped the camshaft sensor anyway and watched icp and ipr data, the ipr voltage is where it should be and rises while cranking while cranking.
ICP is climbing to almost 3,200 psi and it will begin to run when it peaks out. she'll fire for 45 seconds after 25 seconds of cranking or so and then it'll just die. if it sits for a few minutes it takes a few seconds of cranking before ICP will come off of 0. I've come to the conclusion that it is making high pressure oil it is just dumping it as fast as it can make it. I changed the ipr out because that can do it, it didn't change anything so I'm on to believing an injector is dumping it as fast as possible.
Is it possible for something to come undone inside the injector to make it dump high pressure oil or will a bad o ring cause this? i'm leaning towards a failing injector as when it does fire and run its definitely misfiring and i just put new o rings on them when i swapped them over from my wrecked truck but that was like 45,000 miles ago as well..