I have a po6a7 code boost gauge pegged at 40 code says vref circuit b out of range. What sensors run on circuit b and what could possibly be the problem my camshaft sensor is reading fault on scanner don't know if that has anything to do with it taking the truck to the dealer is not and option it's a 2011 6.7 with 75,000 miles....
View 1 RepliesI keep getting a problem code of P0404 - EGR Circuit Range/Performance. What it is and if its a serious issue?
View 2 RepliesBoost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 f-250 6.0 liter turbo diesel. I was pulling a trailer with a golf kart on it and was not in tow haul. I was going up a hill and it shot up into 5th gear. I pulled into my house and shut it off and refired it and it acted fine. I went on a little test drive to see if it was going to do it again before I went on my trip. As soon as it shifted into third gear the tow haul light started to flash on my dash and went to 5th gear and would not down shift even if I did it on the column.
I scanned the truck with my snap on modus and it gave me these codes. P0706-transmission range sensor A circuit range/performance, P0707-transmission range sensor A circuit low input, and P1702-transmission range sensor circuit intermittent. I put a transmission harness in it and started it up and it ran fine and the codes were gone. I went for a test drive around the neighborhood and as soon as it hit 3rd gear it did the same thing as before. Today I put the old one back in and checked the codes so I could write them down and there weren't any so I went for a drive and it shifted through all the gears great and downshifted fine as well.
I pulled into my drive way to check for codes once again and there weren't any. I was gonna go for a ride in tow haul to see if it would do it and as soon I put the truck in reverse it started to idle high and the tow haul light started to flash again. I put it in drive to pull back into my drive way and it immediately shifted into 5th gear and threw the same codes...
2006 F350 6.0 throwing code P0480 and I'm having a hard time figuring anything out pertaining to my truck. Trying to figure out what exactly it is and how to fix it myself.
View 3 RepliesOver the past weekend I had to replace all of the egr gaskets and seals, due to it failing smog. I removed all of the harnesses over the motor, intake manifold, turbo, and oil filter housing. I also replaced the oil/oil filter and also the fuel filters. The truck ran great before I decided to replace all of the seals. When I went to start the truck, it would just crank and not fire. One thing I noticed was that my wait to start light only stays on for a few seconds, where before it would stay on for a while. After cranking on it for a while I got a code P2623 for the ICP circuit open. I have tried unplugging the ICP sensor to see if it would start, but it just cranks over. The truck sounds like it wants to fire, but wont. Should I pull the ipr and ICP sensor?
View 4 RepliesHave a 2004 F350 which had problems starting cold and once started had bad throttle response until warm. It also had a shudder at cruising speed when going up a slight incline, would shudder until turbo kicked in.
Pulled codes which related to FICM and codes for all 8 injectors. 7 injector codes were circuit low, cylinder 1 high. Tested FICM voltage and sent FICM out for repair.
Installed rebuilt FICM, cleared codes, and hard start went away, but cruising shudder is still present.
Only existing code is P0262 for cylinder 1 injector circuit high. I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it?
So yet another crank no start. Truck is an 03 55k miles The guy I bought the truck off of told me the turbo had been reconditioned about 1000 miles ago. Drove the truck another 1000 miles or so and now having issues. I went to start truck up and noticed it took awhile longer than normal to start up and when it did finally kick over, truck and no power at all. Would idle a bit rough sounded like no turbo spool at all when given throttle. Shut the truck off right and hooked up scangauge to it went to start it and nothing.
Did throw p2285 code ICP low circuit
Values read on scangauge are as follows:
FICM Main Power 48.0V
FICM Logic Power 10-8V
FICM sync is good
ICP Pressure 1540psi on crank
IPR duty cycle 14.8% Key on engine off/48.8% while cranking
At a bit of a loss as to where to look next, would really like to troubleshoot down to the right fix instead of just throwing parts at it. Have read after sitting the turbos tend to stick and need cleaned or replaced. After being cleaned only a few thousand miles could it be stuck again? Seems like I have spark, fuel, oil just acts like its not getting any air.
On a family vacation in our 2013 6.7 pulling a 41ft trailer to the Seattle area from Alberta Canada. Made it to destination yesterday. Woke up this morning started truck and cel on. Bought a code reader at the local napa store and read P206 fault inj 6 open circuit. Any thoughts on driving the truck around with a inj fault? Thought I had read here some where that 6 was the regen cylinder.
View 14 RepliesI was updating the firmware on my mini max tuner today and decided to calibrate for the 37" tires. After calibration was done I got the code P1635, which is "Tire/Axle Out of Acceptable Range". Should I bring it back down to 34" where the FORD ECU stops calibrating? I mite have lost traction control with this calibration as well. Mite find out tomorrow if I get an itchy foot. Truck seemed to drive better and pull harder off the line....low rpm's.
View 14 RepliesI had CEL the other week scanned and found P2043 Reductant Temp/Sensor range. Light came on first thing after a cold start.
View 13 RepliesOkay, so I have a 14' 6.7L, about 18,438 miles on it and the check engine light came on when I was at the gas station ready to leave, and so I took a field trip to auto zone and they scanned the CEL and it came back as P20BA - Reductant Heater 'A' Control Circuit Performance and they said I need to change out the pump assembly so I took it to the dealership and they cleared the code which worked for awhile, about 4 months ago the light came back on and I'm wonder if I should get the pump/heater changed out or get it deleted? The warranty is going to end in august this year..... It's been fine no issues with the truck, even tho I drive with the CEL on and just wondering what I should do? The CEL has been on for almost 5 months.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 f250 and got a check engine code icp circuit intermittent and to what I know icp sensor should be on the valve cover on the passenger side but it's not I bought the truck few months ago could it be that they swapped the engine for an early 6.0 or is there any other place for the icp sensor???
View 7 Replies2004 Excursion 6.0L .... Recently after a 200 mile trip through the mountains running good, I get home and the next day it idles down the driveway at a high idle and after a few minutes seems to run better but within 5 miles the CEL comes on and throws P2287 - intermittent injection pressure control circuit. I cleared the code, ran around town again and the light came on again same code. I'm getting appropriate ICP-voltage and pressure readings. I took it home sat overnight and thought I would pull the ICP sensor.
I replaced the ICP sensor less than 6 months/5,000 miles ago. I also changed out the main engine harness at the same time. I looked at ICP sensor and it looks clean. Started the truck and tried the scientific wiggle test while running and monitoring ICP-voltage. Started at the sensor bending and wiggling back to FICM. No fluctuation in voltage. Ran the truck around town, 20 miles and no light. Yesterday we made the same 200 mile trip over the mountains, seemed to run strong. In town this morning within 5 miles the CEL is back on and the only code is P2287.
My Ford powertrain diagnostics manual doesn't have the P2287 code in it for troubleshooting. Should I go after the FICM, and how do U test that if so? I'm currently that 200 mile drive from home and don't want to damage anything more.
My check engine light popped on for me a couple days ago. P2043-reductant temperature sensor range/performance. Truck still runs like a raped ape, no change in driveability. Just over 21k miles. No "speed limited to 55" messages or anything else. Basically no change in the truck other than the light.
View 12 RepliesI'm excited to be a Powerstroke owner again! I had a 2000 with the 7.3L and since bought and now sold a Chevy 1500. Last week I bought a new 2015 6.7L. I am MORE than impressed and love the truck. Today I brought it to get the windows tinted. I have not had one issue with the truck since I have had it. When they finished with the windows, my check engine light was on. The shop I had it done it EXTREMELY reputable. They brought out their snap on scanner and pulled the code. p0073 for the ambient air temp sensor circuit high. Is this a coincidence that this came on after they got done, or could something they did while tinting the windows tripped this?
As I drove off down the road after determining I wasn't going to hurt the truck, the air temp sensor went from showing -40 to the actual temperature. What would cause this? I deleted the code when I got home with my actron, and the MIL has stayed off since, however, it shows P0073 Permanent ...
06 6.0 F250 throwing code P0677 #7 glow plug circuit module. I don't think one bad plug would cause a no start, however coupled with too much oil possibly? Swapped my oil about 500 miles ago, I put in 20qts accidentally, drained off about 3-4 qts eyeballed, truck fired up and ran fine no smoke nothing. Yesterday morning I was leaving work and moved my truck from parking space to behind the bay at my fire station, I turned the engine off.
Loaded up my gear and turned the engine to the aux position and someone was talking to me so inlet it sit for a while in the auxiliary position. Went to crank no start, turned the key off then back on and it fired. Fast forward after 7 different starts throughout the day, I'm at dinner with my son we go to leave engine will not start at all, rolls and rolls and rolls nothing. Towed her home and scratching my head. Over filled oil with a bad plug cause no start??
Egr delete, new oil cooler, cat and muffler delete, upgraded Y turbo pipe. Also have an SCII throwing codes p0677 and p0401 egr code....
I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. just slower cranking is all. I took my truck in to have a viper security system installed and while he was doing his work he killed the batteries. I saw him hook up a battery charger and started the truck. He pulled it around to me and explained how the system worked and off i went. 5 miles down the road, on the thruway, I notice a miss and I'm down on power. FICM looked ok, 48V and it was charging, 13.8 I thought I would bring it to my shop and load test the batteries. On my way here, the check engine light comes on. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak. Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. Hooked up the scanner and pulled a code P2077 (cylinder 6 injector circuit high) Now what? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm guessing either the FICM went bad or the #6 injector?
View 12 RepliesEngine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
View 2 RepliesWell, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
This is what I get from the DTC .....
DTC P0705
Description : transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
State : History
I have done some google search on the above diagnostic trouble code P0705 and as i understood , it indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
Since the check engine light illuminated two times (two separate occasion) then it turns off now; the ECM is actually receiving input signal from the TRS.
So that leads me to think that the TRS is actually working but the problem might be one of the following two:
1- Open or short in the TRS circuit?
2- Dirty transmission fluid.
What do you think the steps i should do first of all ? how would i check the transmission fluid since my vehicle has no transmission fluid dipstick. My driving condition would fall into "severe" category and it reached 60,000 miles now ...