I don't think it's possible but is there any way to stop this message from popping up in the info centre Every Single Time I exceed 30kmh while the locking diff is engaged? It's winter here on the Canadian prairies and roads are generally snow and ice covered where at live. Makes driving in town really annoying. On My '11 SD I only had to clear it once per drive cycle.
View 6 RepliesI have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
View 7 RepliesWell, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
View 8 RepliesI posted about my steering issue and i went ahead and did the gear box and now on to the ujoints ...
HUB LOCK ASSEMBLY is in 2 i started to gently pry it out with a flat head in a star figure while jiggling and pulling the whole unit with my other hand well ...
The cover plate separated from the rest of the lock and I am lost ...
With how touchy our diesel fuel system is to any contaminates...what locking cap will replace the OEM fuel cap? Also, looking for a locking DEF cap? Looking for caps for a 2016.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 that won't engage all the time. I have manual locking hubs.
View 14 RepliesI got new auto-locking hubs. The updated ones. As I proceeded to replace them, I pulled out old ones and when driver side came out, there was like 1/2 ounce of water that flowed out from where the auto-locking hub would sit. Strange. I had changed out lines, vacuum pump, vacuum solenoid and reservoir. All new and dry. I blasted both sides down with brake cleaner to clean off old grease, let dry and installed new auto hubs. So far so good. Will test the ESOF feature another time. I was wondering where this water would come from? Other side of wheel hubs are dry.
View 2 RepliesMy truck gave me the message that "DEF under 1/2 full", so since we are on the road, I stopped by a dealer and picked up 5 gallons of motorcraft DEF. I did not want to get the countdown message in an unfamiliar area and have to look for it. While going out site-seeing, I forgot and left it in the back seat of the truck for about 8 hours in the heat of the day. I know you are supposed to store it under 86 degrees or so. Now, did I just ruin 5 unopened gallons or is it still safe to use?
View 9 RepliesI have seen this pop up on the truck I think 3 times now over the first 4000 miles on the truck.
Usually it's when I'm on the highway around 70mph or so.
It comes on for a few seconds, then goes away. I do have an exhaust / tune on the car.
I haven't had any issues with this truck before but last night I pulled out onto the highway and my check engine light came on and a message saying engine power reduced I finally got it to reset after 4 times of shutting the truck off, was wondering what this may be without knowing the code. I tried plugging my edge cts into it from my 6.0 but it wouldn't communicate guess it needs a update trucks a 15 f350 with only 30000km.....
View 2 RepliesMy low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
So I just went on a vacation pulling my horse trailer (first time leaving the state with this truck) and at about 5 hrs into the trip I had a message Reduced Engine Power and went from 70 on the interstate to 10 miles an hour and slowing rather quickly. I ended up shutting it off and restarting and it came back just like normal. I found the nearest ford dealer and they put the computer on it and it showed absolutely nothing, no codes and nothing wrong. The mechanic reset some things and we went on our way.
Then I ended up getting a check engine light saturday. I found someone to read the code and it came up with P164A which is an O2 sensor, he was able to clear it and I put on probably 50 miles today and no check engine light. I have about a 10 hour drive back home. Still debating if I take it to ford near here if they will do anything now that it doesn't show a light?? I hate to chance getting broke down on the highway with a truck that will basically shut down like that?? It just doesn't make sense to me.
Got a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
I have a 2003 F350 6.0 liter crew cab. It's all stock minus the FICM and bullet proof I did a few years ago when I purchased the truck. truck runs amazing with 136K miles on her, but i rarely drive the truck and she's been sitting. SO, I went out to start her up because it's been in the low teens and I wanted to keep the battery up to par. When I had turned the ignition key on to start the truck (after I cycled the glow plugs), I could hear the starter spin but instead of turning the truck over, it made a grinding noise followed by a spin type sound which I assume is the drive gear of the starter not engaging. I can get her to start but it takes multiple attempts.
Once she's warmed up, it seems to stop grinding when i try and start it which makes me think it's more of a resistance issue, possibly a relay. BTW, where is the starter relay on our trucks? I am wondering if the cold has something to do with the proper power and amps to the starter via the relay causing the starter not getting enough power to the starter. Anyway, I'm hoping there is a way to diagnose this through my torque program by looking at amps but not sure which parameters to look at on torque android.....I'm hoping it's a relay problem instead of a starter problem. I really dont want to replace a starter with a bum shoulder.......in the cold to top it off
With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
I had a nice level straight stretch in front of me and engaged the cruise control. No go! I tried a few more times and it still did not engage, even with various button sequences. My thought was that this truck is a computer on wheels. So at the next opportunity I stopped and shutdown the engine, turned the ignition switch OFF and then restarted started the engine (and rebooted the computer). The cruise control works fine!
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
View 4 Replies10,178 miles and no oil change message yet.
View 14 Replies