Just noticed a loud squealing sound coming from the engine area before I start the truck, but with the key in the on position. I'll try to get a video the next time it happens. I assume it's something starting/warming up, but it's louder than anything I've ever noticed. It lasts probably 20 seconds.
View 9 Repliesheard a loud squealing noise and now no boost. 2011 with 90k miles
whats my options and what would it cost.
1. replace with factory turbo
2. replace with upgraded turbo and tune?
On my way home from picking up or new Voltage 5er, I could hear a loud squealing noise when we pulled up to the house. After crawling around the under side of the truck I found the last exhaust thermal couple had either blew out or just fell out.
View 9 RepliesWell, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
Back again.. I just replaced the HPOP and IPR valve on my truck a few weeks ago. While the turbo was out I cleaned it and applied a small amount of anti seize on the unison ring. When installing the turbo I had moved the y-pipe a little to get the turbo in place. About a week after it was running again I started to get a squealing noise under acceleration. The noise isn't a whistle like the turbo but an actual squeal. Its a little bit louder than the turbo whistle. If I am in park and rev the engine it doesn't happen. It only happens when I accelerate and seems to be when there is boost. If I let off the gas pedal the noise stops. I don't have an issue with making boost. I did replace the turbo boot when it was apart a few weeks ago so I don't think that is the problem I checked the y-pipe clamp and down-pipe clamp and both are fine. I replaced the serpentine belt this past weekend and checked all pulleys, they were all very good with no play. Another thing, the pitch of the noise seems to change with rpm's too. What could be causing this type of noise?
View 14 RepliesHad Just replaced glow plugs and batteries along with a new set of tires. Truck had been running fine for the three days that is was. Went out the next morning and went to start and "POP" a large noise came from under the hood. I have yet to discover where this noise particularly came from or what it may have been that caused it. But ever since the POP it will not turnover what so ever. Key on every thing is normal all power just when go to turn key over it makes a faint click. You can feel the click in the relays on your hand when you try to turnover. But nothing. I am absolutely clueless.
View 14 RepliesWhen I start the cold engine mine makes a loud whining noise. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said that the sound is normal and that it's the turbo's. I think I'll take it to another ford dealership and get a second opinion, The service guy has the same truck as me and his was making the same noise on cold start up and they told him it was the turbo's also. Something's not right about the noise.
View 14 RepliesI have used this forum to look up everything I've needed to since I bought my 05 F250 FX4 6.0 brand new. I was pulling our brand new camper in 100* heat. I began to hear a clicking from the truck from the engine compartment that would be right by the turbo. My engine started overheating, but I had no smoke (black or white). The engine cooled down after I was done climbing the hills, but I had feathering from by the air cleaner and the clicking/chirping was still present.
I pulled over to let the truck cool and checked my coolant reservoir. While pulling over, I lost accelerator pedal responsiveness. The turbo was also engaging a lot. I pulled over. Put the truck in park, but left it idling. As I was looking around under the hood, the truck died. I have not been able to start it. (This all happened Saturday). The truck is 20 miles from home, and I've been out tinkering every day. Here is what I know:
1) I have 48 volts to the FICM.
2) I have tried to start it early in the morning and in the evening when temperatures were low.
3) When I crank, I do get oil pressure from the instrument cluster.
4) The oil level is at the correct markings on the dip stick.
5) Using my scanguage II, I have verified an IPR reading of 14.8. As I crank, it goes up to 84.7. My ICP reading is all over the place. It always gets to above 500, yet it with the key off - engine off, I get a reading higher than zero. With the key-on I go from 300 to 500 and to over 1000 with out the think even hinting at starting.
6) I have oil in the oil filter housing.
7) I have fuel in the upper fuel filter housing bowl.
8)The batteries and alternator have all passed load testing.
9)I tried to start the truck with the ICP disconnected, and didn't have any luck.
10) I have no codes set or pending.
I am at a loss. I don't want to start throwing $$ at various parts.
So my 2015 has a touch over 1K miles on it. It has "ticked" loudly since day 1. I generally keep my truck in my shop and hear the ticking every single time when I pull it outside. It occurs immediately after start up and happens at idle. Easily heard anywhere around the front end of the truck. This is not the normal diesel engine noise and absolutely sounds like the tick-tick-tick of an old typewriter.
So in doing some research, I came upon the TSB for put out for the 2011-2014 models, in which it CLEARLY states the typewriter noise can/will occur AFTER an oil change and eventually go away...
So, is the noise only supposed to be heard AFTER an oil change, and if so, why would my truck do it even though it has not had an oil change?My 2012 did not have the tick before, during or after an oil change, ever.
My truck's been doing this ever since I got it when the engine is cold. Haven't brought it up to a dealer yet because I'm not sure it's a real problem, and since it only does it when it's cold I'd have to leave it overnight.
It seems to happen when the turbo hits a certain RPM. I got it on video but you can't really hear it until the end when I raise the RPMs a bit.
YouTube - VID 20100926 104950
My 2003 f250 6.0l just up and quit. It make a popping noise out of the intake when cranking. I am getting 1150 psi at the icp and ipr is at 62% which seems high to me. The FICM voltage seem fine unless the batteries are drained and I am getting FICM sync. I replaced the HPOP, ICP sensor and IPR about a year ago. I recently replaced the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump. I am at a bit of a loss. I did pull the IPR and everything looked fine.
View 14 RepliesI know this is an old subject that comes up from time to time. Most will notice it after an oil change or the first oil change anyway. Yet, some will never notice or experience the sound.
It is when you first start the engine, it has been described as a can of marbles being shaken or popping noise, maybe a metallic knock.
I have 17K on the truck now and this seems to be getting louder and more annoying. Sometimes it is louder than other times, and sometimes I don't hear it at all. I have always changed my oil right at 5,000 mile intervals. Fuel Filter at 13,500.
I have a 07 f250 6.0l and it has 112k on it, I've owned it for over 4yrs, since 45k, and no issues, but this morning I went out to start my truck didn't start, tried again and started, but the glow plug controller made a funny buzzing noise, (making that noise for a few weeks), so I went to ford and bought a new controller, so I hope that fixed that, but on my way to work I was at a traffic light and noticed that my ficmv were between 46-48.5, icp 23-24%, vgt around 68%, truck was at temp, should I start to worry about the ficm??, I have to replace my ground on driver side battery, noticed that it is corroding, gonna do that, I have 2 yellow top optima batteries about 3 yrs old....
View 9 RepliesWhen the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
View 14 RepliesHad long start issues. Would turn over for 5 seconds - shut off- turn over for 5 seconds - shut off - third try on 4-5 seconds the low oil pressure would come up and HOP would fire injectors and start up.
Was not sure what was up, so look it to Ford. They did leak down test and found seal at the top of injector 4 was leaking. Replaced it and leak moved to other injector. Basically moving to the next weakest seal point. I told them to stop as i did not want to pay, parts, labour and shop time to replace all injectors, etc. They also said power across all injectors was good, but 3 & 7 were not contributing on cold start.
I drove it home and bought parts. New cups and seal for all 8 on fuel rail. New gasket kits for injectors. Plus 2 new injectors to replace 3 and 7.
Replaced injectors in 3 & 7 with the 2 remanufactured i bought. Replaced all cups and seals on fuel rails. So it has new injectors in 3, 4 & 7.
As for the other injectors i took the 5 of them right apart and cleaned them and re-assembled. Took about an hour per injector, took my time to get it right, just FYI. Went pretty good i thought. Seemed pretty straight forward actually.
Now no start - no high oil pressure at all. LOP comes up right away. Scanner shows no HOP no matter how long i crank it.
FICM power good, 47.5 - 48
shows FICM sync - YES
IPR sits at 14% and jumps to 84% on crank - starting, see photos below.
Scanner prior to crank
Scan during crank
Note zero IPC - PSI
Right now.... Got the valve cover off on passenger side. Cannot see oil squirting out the sides of any injectors, but line of sight is limited. Maybe need a small mirror to see in there. LOP comes up better than it has in years, but no HOP now. Before rebuild it seemed i had good HOP but low LOP.
I drove it home from Ford and into my garage, so i do not believe the HPOP crapped out sitting in the garage, so i am ruling that out as a fail, at this time.
Dummy plugs were replaced 5 years ago and o-rings looked decent.
Pulled the small plug screw at the top of the fuel rail. Cranked it until oil came out, bleeding air. then replaced the screw plug. Have not done that on drivers sideyet. Will try that tomorrow. However, think this is more than an air issue, as i have cranked it over plenty, unless i just have that much air.
Going to pull the valve cover on the Driver's side tomorrow. Then will have both covers off at same time to view all.
Noted that if i put compressed air into the screw hole on top of the fuel rail, i can hear air coming out from below the fuel rail. Nothing at the base or around injectors. Does not seem to be at the cups either.
Just wondering.... Buy applying air to those screw plug holes, is that the same as doing the air test at the sensor that pokes up through the valve cover.
With air pressure at these scew plugs on the fuel rail, should this be sealed and be air tight and hear no air leakage. Because it was not air tight on the drivers side before i closed that side up. I am curious about this.
I am assuming i still have a HOP leak. I do not think i have a failed HPOP. How to better chase a HOP leak?
I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
View 14 RepliesHave a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
View 9 RepliesI was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
View 14 RepliesDon't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
Long story behind it but finally got my scanner working right and checked the suggested systems for p2290.
IPR was 77+ on start up dropped to around 31 at idle
FMP is in the 46.5 to 47.5 range
SYC was at 1 and occasionally at 1.5
ICP was at 550-650 during startup and quickly ramped up to 1150 then settled into around 850 at idle.
The only thing that I'm not sure of is the IPR being 31 at idle, is that what it should be. The others I think are within normal operating parameters.
The truck starts but has no power. Can barely go up a slight hill on my street. Seems like it's going to be fine but as soon as I apply a little gas it just falls off.