How does one clear the computer to prevent the display "Check Coolant Additive" from appearing every time I start the truck. I know that a chemical test is needed to determine the status of the coolant.
View 2 RepliesMy 2015 F350 6.7 has 13,400 miles and displayed the check coolant additive warning as I pulled into town from an 850-mile round trip this weekend. If the radiator in 2015 is still the same as the one used in 2012 etc discussed in another thread?
I will call my local dealer tomorrow. I do not see any obvious leak at this point. I had the oil changed before taking the trip and assume all fluid levels were checked.
The other day I got the check coolant additive message. I've heard that you need to test this every so often. My truck has 67,000kms. so maybe 45,000 miles ?? Anyways.. At first I thought it was a LOW coolant message not reading it thoroughly the first time.. So I was quick to check the coolant level. The level in the drivers side looks ok but the passenger side seems a bit low. I can't not see any leaks what so ever. So question 2. Are both overflow reservoirs or is one for this coolant additive.
View 14 RepliesOK, just about to turn over 17,000 miles on my 6.7 and got the message to "Check Coolant Additive". So I came here and did a search, read a bunch of post, gained a little information, but not enough. You know how it goes with the subject gets off track and never comes back to course many times.
So my question is, do I purchase the kits, from what I read it would appear that there are two different test kits required.
Or do I just take it to the dealership and have the test performed? Also from what I have read it would appear that this is a timed message response and not an actual computer generated test...correct?
Got a "check coolant additive" message in my message center, but the owner's manual isn't too useful explaining what it means or what I should do.
View 9 RepliesDriving to work this morning and I get a notification "Check Coolant Additive". Sure, I've got 12,100 miles on it but come on. Dealer dip a test strip in the coolant to check it out. He says it only takes a few minutes to check provided the engine isn't too hot. I guess the "coolant additive" is something that the computer monitors to make sure the coolant is still good.
View 14 RepliesI called my servicing dealer and he was unaware of the message or how to check/test this. He also did not think it was a warranty issue.
View 14 RepliesHow do I reset the "Check Coolant Additive" message. Pressing OK turns it off until I restart the engine.
View 4 RepliesHow can I turn off the annoying Check Coolant Additive notification? I won't be taking the truck in for service for another week and don't want to look at and acknowledge it every time I start it up until then.
View 5 RepliesGot the warning on the message center.. 2011 F350 38,000 miles. I am not original owner, has lifetime POWERTRAIN so thinking of letting dealer handle this,,,but..?
With the importance of these cooling systems.. and coolant being in there for approx. 60 months.. I am thinking why pay for test kit or pay dealer to test it and add additive...
I guess I could just buy the oem coolant and distilled water and drain & fill it myself... but can I use garden hose to flush? Or just better to let FORD handle it?
I have my check coolant message on my display again... I need to get the fuel filters changed so I'm thinking of having the coolant flushed too. 45,500 or there abouts on the ODO.
View 9 RepliesGot a warning Coolant additive low and checked the coolant reservoir is above the cold fill line on the big reservoir and on the small reservoir(near the Radiator neck) it also is above the fill line. What could the message be telling me? The second message is "Cleaning exhaust filter" and it come and goes. Is this a warning that I need to do something about?
View 7 RepliesOk I have this issue that I noticed on my new 2011. May sound weird but the wipers come on when I start the truck every time. Not sure if this is normal but I thought maybe I was bumping the lever thing but it does it anyway. I don't like that doing it cause of snow laying on the windshield in the morning will be a pain.
View 14 RepliesEarlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
A few days ago my check coolant additive message start popping up, 14k miles. After doing some reading it sounds like all I need to do is either have my coolant tested or get the test kit and do it myself. My confusion is which test kit to purchase. Since my truck is a 2015 PSD some people are saying that I need to buy a test kit that comes with test vials instead of using the test strips. Which test kit should I buy?
View 14 RepliesI was driving home tonight and stopped at stop sign. I took off and truck died and coasted to a stop. I tried to start but all it does is theft light blinks really fast and will not turn motor over. I tried to reset pat by following procedure I found on internet. Still no start. I then unhooked battery cables and left off for 15 minutes then hooked up but still no start and blinking theft light. I also tried spare key and still no start. What else can I do. I had it towed to place that just bulletproof my truck. Truck has been running great. I did not want to leave it on the side off road in the middle of country all night.
View 3 RepliesWell got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
Someone just told me I need to put additive in coolant so the injectors don't rust. I've never heard of this.
View 14 RepliesHaving a puddle of coolant under truck after sitting. Shop said its a oring on the egr cooler. 1200.00? Is that normal?
View 14 RepliesMy good friend has a 2011 6.7 and has been dealing with a coolant leak for a few months. Dealership has had the rig a few times and said it passed " a pressure" test etc. and they see no issue, yet he finds a puddle under the truck when after it has been parked. How best to check it out? I'm not familiar with some of the common trouble spots on the 6.7 like I am with the 7.3.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.