2000 7.3 EOT read 272* with engine cold new Ford sensor only getting 3.95 volts at sensor plug and at the 42 pin connector from PCM should be 5 volts, dropping 1 Volt some where I disconnected all the sensors that share this voltage IAT, EBV, ICP, IPR, MAP no change. I left the EOT unplugged and the truck runs good I'll run it like this.
View 14 RepliesI have an 02 f350 7.3 power stroke...Yesterday I noticed the outside temp was reading wrong,it was jumping from 67 to 86 to 92 back to 67..Temp was prob around 90 with high humidity and my a/c was on..So I got to where I was going and when I restarted my truck to go home the fuel gauge dropped to empty(I just fueled the day before) and fuel light came on and outside temp still wrong on the overhead digital display...Are these two things related???
Stopped the truck restarted it and fuel reads correctly again....Went out today and fuel light back on and on empty...Outside temp wrong again,a/c is on .....I disconnected the batteries when I got home to "reset the system"if there is such thing, fuel gauge working but outside temp wrong..?? Where is the outside temp sensor ?could condensation be running onto the sensor and throwing off my temp gauge? Just strange that both these things happened at the same time......I don't think its a fuse or they wouldn't work at all. I should mention all the other gauges work correctly...
What else besides a sticky plunger, would cause the fp reading to be all over the map. According to my gauge, I'm at 78/79psi at idle, but can see it dip to 70ish or spike to 90 while using our driving. My cv's are removed, fp reading is pre-filter and wiring seems good....
View 4 RepliesOk so the saga is continuing, not sure if its because enigma hates this mod or if I shorted something out when I was cutting the wires and mistakenly touched the ends together (protected terminal ends) some how or the monitor piece is just old and the fact that it has been my previous truck and this truck for a total combined 8+ years causing this conundrum....anyways the gauge seems to work (yay?) but it looks to read only "8"DC V?? but I know the power port (in dash) works as expected....so I am a bit lost here....one of the digits does look to be faded out as if the device perhaps is going bad and needs replacement....
View 11 RepliesJust bought this 1999 7.3 drove it a couple days now and got to walmart today. shut it off to go inside and came back out. turned on key waited for wait to start to go off. cranked the motor over but it didnt fire. i tried it again and nothing. oil is full, oil pressure is good while cranking. no rpm reading on gauge while cranking. no check engine light. batteries are literally brand new two weeks ago. Cam sensor?
View 4 RepliesI've had an ongoing issue with my fuel gauge reading incorrectly, and now I'm trying to fix it! Basically, it will change all over the place while I'm driving (not erratically, but definitely moves occasionally). I recently fixed my overhead display, but the "miles to empty" display doesn't seem to be very consistent. It will read 450 miles to empty, and then the next time I look at it, it will have dropped 100 miles or something (after minimal driving).
So I'm wondering where I need to begin looking to fix this problem. I've replaced the dash cluster using Circuit Board Medics, so I'm fairly confident that's not the issue. I've read that it can be the fuel pump or the fuel tank sender, but how to check if these are actually the problem or how much time it will take. Luckily, I've never run out of fuel and been stranded, but I need to fix this or it's only a matter of time!
I have a 2005 v6 ford mustang and lately the rpm and the gas gauge have been misreading. At first the it was the gas gauge that was reading off then the rpm gauge soon after. However, sometimes the rpm gauge will be working right but my gas gauge is just completely wrong. The other two gauges are working just fine( temperature & speedometer) ...
View 1 Replies00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
View 14 RepliesI purchased a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 a couple of weeks ago. The guy said originally in the add that it need #2 and #8 injectors replaced. When I went and looked at it he had already replaced them and said the it still has no power and needed the remaining 6 replaced. I purchased it as it was a good deal thinking I should be able to get it fixed for worst case a set of injectors. BTW the engine has little to no blowby and starts easy and idles great.
The problem it it will not build any boost (has external boost gauge). Actually the gauge only shows vacuum. With the truck in park or neutral you can slowly rev the motor to 2500rpm and all seems fine but as soon as you break past 2500rpm it sound like it is missing and starts blowing white smoke. The smoke smells like when a diesel heater runs out of diesel. If you try and drive it it has NO power and will not move out of its own way and will eventually start like it is missing and blowing white smoke.
The previous owner replaced the following:
#2 injector
#8 injector
UVC gaskets
MAP Sensor
Wastegate solenoid sensor
The first thing I did was start looking at the no boost issue and pulled the turbo. I deleted the EBPV while i was there. Also the turbine wheel was in very bad shape so i replaced the turbine wheel, shaft, seals, bushings and installed a new compressor wheel 5+5 wheel off ebay. Reinstalled turbo and the symptoms are the same. I also replaced the clamps on the spider with Tbolt clamps instead of the worm gear styles and it psi tested all piping and intercooler to 30psi with no leaks. Also the up pipes have already been replaced with the bellowed style so there are no leaks and it has a 4" straight exhaust.
I have since ordered oring kits for the injectors and also ordered the fittings for the fuel bowl so i can check fuel pressure. it has a new air filter, oil filter, oil and fuel filter installed.
The ICP sensor has oil in the plug but if i unplug it the symptoms are still there.
I have also used a scanner and the ICP pressure is approx 500psi at idle and the duty cycle is about 11% at idle. Also the HPOP looks to be new as it is very clean compared to the surrounding parts and i have checked the HPOP reservoir and it is full to withing 1/2" from the threads.
2000 Excursion
7.3
205000 miles
I am assuming that the injectors are original other than #2 and #8.
I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
View 14 RepliesIam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
View 7 RepliesOK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 7.3 I've been struggling to figure out why I do not have a lot of power below 2k rpm... The truck screws once it gets above 2k.
Assuming it was a turbo issue - I had the turbo rebuilt and put the wicked wheel in. Made a huge difference overall but truck still bogs under 2k.
No leaks in up pipes, they have been replaced recently. What the problem could be?
I have a 1999 7.3 with 260k miles. It is all stock with the exception of straight pipe. I got the truck about 8 months ago and have put about 5k miles on it. Have never had any issues with it. I was driving from Dallas to Houston and about 45 minutes into the trip my truck lost power. I was going about 65-70 mph and the service engine line came on and I lost power. It was running rough and was blowing white smoke. I let it sit for a couple minutes and started it back up and ran fine until 30 minutes later. It did this 2 more times on the way to Houston. Oil is good, coolant is good. Not over heating. Threw a code the first time but didn't throw it the other times. I brought it to a mechanic and he thinks it's the Wastegate.
View 14 Replies2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
View 14 RepliesI pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
View 14 RepliesThe last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 f350, 7.3l, it will not run, my scanner says no communication, I have replaced the PCM, IDM, GEM, injectors and glow plugs, got power to the OBD II @ pin 16, I have power at the 71 pin on PCM I have ground at pin 77 on PCM and power at pin 55 on PCM, it will crank but no fire, no communication.
View 8 Replies