Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Humming Sound While Driving / Clunk Loudly When Shifted Into Reverse
May 14, 2015
On my way home from work the other day my 2000 7.3l started making a humming sound while driving. I noticed that it was shifting harder and it began to slam into gear when I would take off from a stop. By the time I pulled into the driveway I had to be half way into the pedal to keep it moving. I shifted into reverse and it clunked loudly and didn't want to back up. I don't know much about transmissions but I'm thinking that it's probably shot. I'm hoping that it's something other than a complete rebuild but doubtful.
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What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I didn't notice anything until I was towing yesterday and tried to pass a car to get onto the offramp.
Anyway, I went to floor it so I could get around and, in my mirror, I could see a decent bit of grey smoke coming out. What could it be?
It doesn't smoke at all on startup and runs smooth right away.
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My 2002 7.3 engine makes a slow tap sound...
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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Recently my 2000 F350 7.3 crew cab has been making a growling/vibration sound by the glove box at idle. Seems to disappear at speed/higher RPM.
Any thoughts on what might be loose at firewall passenger side area?
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
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I hear a whoosh whoosh whoosh sound coming from the exhaust when its warming up in the morning. What is happening?
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(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4, powered by the 4.0L SOHC V6 engine, with a 5R55E transmission. It now has this issue of stalling and dying when shifted from park to reverse. This can be prevented by applying the gas immediately after shifting, however, my wife cannot do this. (she is very temperamental, and doesn't remember that this issue occurs decently often now, so if it happens once, she bites my head off because I haven't fixed this issue yet) I do not see this as the valve body issue, because the tranny shifts fine, and I have engine braking ability, still. What causes this, and what I can do to fix it?
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I have a 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 .... Recently my truck has started making a humming noise when push the throttle and I can feel a slight vibration, the noise and vibration go away when I let off the throttle, I have changed all five u joints, both wheel bearings in the front, the steady bearing, changed tranny and both diff oils, put new brakes and calipers all around and pulled apart the hubs but I can't seem to find what's causing it. What it could be or what I could check? It has an 8 inch lift and is sitting on 37's and some performance upgrades, could any of that cause this ?
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I noticed a clunk a while ago but could never pin point it and today its the worse it has ever been. I did some research on this and everyone is pointing towards sway bar bushings. now if that is the case why wouldn't they just replace the sway bar link? I see some do poly bushings and others regular rubber. What is the best way to go about this? and I also see you need a shop press so I'm lucky I have one.
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I recently purchased a 2001 excursion 7.3 after driving it for a while I have noticed a significant clunk and vibrate in the rear end. I have read a lot of people saying it could be the slip yoke needing lube which I intend to do but most are saying that their clunk is at start and stop.
Mine is between 30 and 60mph when I let off the accelerator I get a clunk followed by a vibration and when I get on the accelerator it is just the clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke to yall or am I looking at something more? I have tried turning the drive saft and there is no play in it at all.
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I am not the sharpest tool in the box. I was driving my 1979 f250 with a full load of fire wood going about 45mph when I shifted it from drive to reverse (I thought I was in 1st) the truck mad a loud whining sound then refused to go on. Now when I shift it in gear it feels like it wants to move and if I revved up high it will rock back and forth. A friend jacked up the rear end with the wheels off the ground the tiers spun in all gears including park and I was told they could stop the wheels by hand with the car in drive. He then took the cover off the rear end and found it to be low on fluid but no signs of damage. What I broke?
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I'm a mechanic but work only on cars so I'm a little shy on diagnosing trucks. I have a 2001 7.3 f250 4x4 short bed, when I give it gas I can hear a clunk, when I let off of the gas I also hear a clunk. Also when traveling at high way speeds I can feel a strong vibration when I very lightly give it gas but the vibration goes away as I give it more gas.
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Ok so I'm having a problem that seems to have been getting worse. 1999 7.3, auto, 4 door, long bed, 6" lift. When I got the truck a while back I had a slight problem where if I was accelerating hard I would hear a clunk when it shifted into 3rd gear. I'm not hard on the truck that often so it took me a while to realize that the noise was the driveshaft hitting the floorboard right at the joint at the transfer case output.
The carrier bearing was flopping around a bit so I replaced that first. No better... kept driving the truck since it was only a problem while being really hard on it. But it's gotten worse so now when I tow (usually not more than 7-8k lbs) I have a bad vibration on takeoff at low speed. If I try to take off from a stop very hard with any load the driveshaft jumps into the floorboard. So I just replaced the transmission mount and checked the motor mounts, no better. Only thing I can figure at this point is axle wrap...?
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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So this started yesterday when I pulled in to my drive way and it only happens in reverse. When I back up it sounds like a mouse is under the truck I think it is the rubber part of the seal on the front of the rear deferential. Can I just replace the seal and be good or is this something that could be a bigger problem? My deferential fluid level is full. I also have slop in the rear end if I go from drive to reverse you can here the thud/clunk is there any way to tighten that up or am I just looking at having to rebuild the whole thing.
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I continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
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