Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 Truck Won't Start
Nov 30, 2016
So I have a 2001 f250 7.3l and on my way to work yesterday while driving down a hill I switched my ts 6 switch to 140 and it immediately stalled, so I pulled over and restarted the truck and it started up fine and I drove the rest of the way to work, I go to start it after work and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, occasionally it'll fire and I got it to start and was able to rev it for about 30 seconds but then it died, disconnect the 6 position switch from the idm and tried but still nothing.
So today I replaced the ipr valve, got everything back together still won't start maybe a little worse now, I know it's getting fuel cause there's pressure in the bowl when I try to take it off, there's a new icp valve, cps, new fuel filter and new sending unit, the hpop is topped off. Also I noticed when I went to change the ipr the wires on the plug were bare and touching so I addressed that, I don't know what else it could be?
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01 f250. Just bought from my brother. 140000 miles. Immaculate. Truck will die for no reason. Running down the highway, or sitting at a red light. Fires back up. Sometimes have to crank a few times. He has had at a mechanic and everything checks out good. Since birth its only had royal purple that he has changed every 5000 miles as well as all filters. Where do I start?
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Truck is a e99 f250sd 4x4 7.3 manual trans. The truck started and ran fine to work this morning. Went to leave this afternoon. Hopped in, put key in and tried to start it. Engine just turned over, never started. Thought that it didn't start because I didn't let the plow plugs warm up enough. Turned ignition off, turned back on and let wait to start light to go out. Same thing happened again. Just turned over but wouldn't start. As far as I can tell the fuel pump is running. Felt it vibrating while the ignition was on. What to check.
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2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
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Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
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I have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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I went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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I drove my 03 f-250 to work Monday everything was good no issues. At end of my shift truck will not start . turn key dash lights up glow plugs cycle turn to start nothing . Does not turn over. after some checking batteries are good. Starter will crank if i manually engage it but truck will not run even with jumping starter with ignition turned on . hooked scanner up says cannot communicate. Checked fuses etc fuse #31 has no power to it (trans range selector and starter relay)question is where to look next?
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So long story short I have a 99 f250 xl, 7.3 130k. Overall good truck but has no options, never had AC but would like to add it. I have seen the kits on bought4less. So I'm thinking all the factory parts should be bolt on, since the holes should be all there, and since most of the wiring should be there. I just need to collect all the parts. Also one question I have is, what goes through the firewall. Is it just the lines, or how does the ac get to the vents? Dumb question but don't get that part of it.
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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Another "no start" issue... The details:
- 2002 F250 7.3L
- Rosewood stage two single shot injectors (rebuilt 1 week ago).
- DP Tuner
- Brand new OEM IPR
- ICP about two months old (OEM)
- New UVH's installed about a month ago
The issue: After installing the injectors and driving about 30 miles the truck died and will not restart. Had to have it towed home. Thus far, I've unplugged the ICP, switched out the CPS with a known good, replaced the IPR, checked the hpop simply by removing the fill plug on the top of the reservoir and gave it a quick crank - oil definitely came pouring out, removed valve covers and plugs to verify oil in the high pressure rails. Oil dummy gauge climbs after about 5 seconds of cranking and seems to hold.
Hoping it's not an injector failure as I just had these reworked. EDIT: Forgot to mention, not seeing any white smoke while cranking. Fuel bowl, full of fuel and fuel pump was replaced this past spring. What to check next? Tried taking a snapshot from a video to show the readings. The ICP seems low, and when unplugged shoots up the 2500, but still no start.
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Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
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My brothers high mileage 7.3 ran out of gas because of a broken fuel pick up line. I brought him 10gal fuel, primed out of it and now the truck is sputtering and sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders. It's not just air in injectors or something it sounds like crap. It's getting fuel at least to the bowl.
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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This past weekend I noticed I was loosing boost pressure on my 2003 7.3l F250 so I pulled my turbo out found the problem fixed it then put the turbo back in. After it was all said and done I went to start the truck up and it just cranked and cranked a cranked but no start. Worried I didn't hook something up right I checked and rechecked everything to do with the turbo, all good nothing out of the ordinary.
I tried to start again, nothing. Spent all day yesterday trying to figure this out. Replaced the cps still nothing. No movement in tach but I don't remember any on startup anyway. Drained the fuel filter had adequate pressure and such but replaced the filter anyway. Still nothing. Checker all my fuses, one by on and non were blown but I still tried disconnecting my fuel bowl heater and still got nothing. I tried disconnecting the Icp still nothing. There was no oil around the icp either.
I'm getting frustrated that the truck wont start, the truck ran perfectly fine before the turbo removal but now wont even give a sign of kicking up. Just cranks and cranks. Also checked Hpop to see if that's the cause and it's filled like to the brim. But when I'm cranking the truck about 10 sec into the oil pressure gauge kicks up and reads good but only when cranking.
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I bought this 16' box truck today. 7.3L, 213k, 2003. It doesn't start and the owner gave a really good bottom dollar deal for all these reasons. Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port
Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.
"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!) Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking .... Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?
As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.
PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.
Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing. It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.
Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.
Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled. It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.
It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...
One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.
My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.
I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied.
They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.
Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles... hence the box truck idea.
They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. Not refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW. The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...
How to get this home?? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)
Dual rear wheels. Anything else I'm missing?
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Truck cranks wont start. Fuses and relays good, New motorcraft; IPR, ICP with pigtails, New T500 hpop, New 180/80 Injectors, Push rods, 910 valve springs, Mellings lpop. Motorcraft oil cooler.
Reservoir full, oil new 15-40w Amsoil, Rails full, Fuel bowl full and clean, HPOP drive gear rechecked and torqued.
RPM 180
Temp oil 88*
ICP duty cycle koeo 14.8, crank 64.85
ICP pressure 250 -450psi
ICP voltage .27-.50
Manual gauge on oil rail 250 -450psi when cranking
Inj pulse width .0005,
Buzz test was good
Vref 5v all sensors. 12v at IPR w/koeo
Fuel pressure 58psi
Air test hpop hear no leaks with stethoscope.
DTC codes: P1280, P0380
Also put straight edge across injectors to double check they were seated.
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