Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Brake Light Coming On When Truck Is Off / No Key
Aug 20, 2016
2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2003 Superduty with 193k miles that is bone stock. I sold the truck to a friend and when he decided to not pay the remaining balance on the truck, I took back ownership. The truck was having heating issues and it set at a mechanic shop for nearly 2 years waiting for a diagnosis on the heating issue. Fast forward to the present and I now have the truck at my home. Heating issue was the radiator but this is no longer a concern. When I went to pick up the truck from the mechanic, the truck started fine. Every other day for the last 4-5 weeks I would start the truck with no problems.
I get the truck tagged and start driving it on a daily basis. I've put several hundred miles on it but the more I drive it, the less it wants to start. Now it's to a point where it only cranks but won't start. I can take a gas rag and hold it in the intake and eventually it will start. Once it's running, it runs great and has no issues starting. But once it sets for 3-4 hours, it won't start without some sort of assistance.
While trying to find the issue, I've found and repaired 2 fuel leaks and in the process I replaced fuel filter, air filter, replaced glow plug relay, replaced batteries, replaced CPS. Fuel pump is working fine. I've tried the ICP test and doesn't make a difference.
The glow plug light or WTS light works so don't think its the GP. The CES light was on. Had it scanned and it was the air bag sensor so no support from the CES.
While I was working on it yesterday and after cranking on it for 5-10 minutes, it would act like it was going to start and black smoke would be coming out from the exhaust. I let it set to cool the starter it fired up like it had no issues.
View 14 Replies
I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
View 14 Replies
Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
View 14 Replies
Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
View 8 Replies
I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
View 6 Replies
So apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
View 5 Replies
I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck.
View 6 Replies
Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
View 12 Replies
long time ago i had to change master cylinder and the calipers on the fronts and the break fluid well i decided to test it out and see if they were working fter i was done with them then the light on the dash came on i thought its because the floating thing in the master cylinder was not floating which was not the case i dont think its the sensor i also lost my emergency break shoes never replaced em
01 f250 2wd 7.3l v8 diesel straight pipe 310,xxx
View 10 Replies
In the last couple of days my battery light comes on after about 30 mins of steady driving. I have no starting issues as of late. Batteries have been tested under load and checked out okay. Alternator is a few months old. Other than the battery light coming on there no other
problems, yet. Is my alternator over charging? A couple of month ago my truck would shut off when I turned a/c or heater on in the mornings. My alternator was over charging. After I replaced it I had no more problems. Could any of this be related to the life time led bulbs that I'm using?
View 9 Replies
I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
View 9 Replies
So about 3-4 times per day, my truck will accelerate very quickly with the slightest touch of the gas pedal, then followed by the service engine soon light...I checked for any codes to see what I may need to fix, but no codes are found.
What this could be? I am also having issues to where I a few times per day I have to put my truck in neutral to get it to start instead of in park...could the two be related?
View 8 Replies
I have a 1999 f250 7.3 I was driving down the road today and I lost throttle along with my check engine light coming on. I pulled over and turned my truck off and now it will not fire back up.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 F-350 dually. I am having an intermittent problem with the the OD light. The symptoms are after coming to a complete stop the OD light starts flashing and when trying to move forward it feels as if the brakes are dragging and sometimes stalls out the engine. The codes read with a Superchip 1705 are p1670,p0720, and P0503. When I shift into park, the engine rpms jump from idle to about 1500-1600. I have replaced both the differential VSS and the transmission OSS but still have the same problem.
View 4 Replies
I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
View 2 Replies
I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
View 14 Replies
2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 7.3. Suddenly a week ago when I left work, I noticed my truck wasn't picking up much, but i was in a 40mph zone. I then jumped on the freeway and noticed the truck would not go over 60mph. Once I exited and got on another road with a 55mph speed limit, the truck would not go over 45mph, I had the pedal pressed all the way down and would not go over 2000 rpms. Also, for the transmission to shift, I would have to let off the accelerator.
View 1 Replies
I have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
View 12 Replies
