Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: E350 Cranks But Won't Start
Jan 14, 2017
I have a 99 Ford e350 7.3 Powerstroke with about 150000KMS on the clock. However I am having a really hard time starting it in the Cold Canadian Winter (-30). Last week I changed all 8 glowplugs, the batteries, the oil, fuel, fuel filter and yes i always keep it plugged in.
It cranks really well, but it just wont fire not even with a shot of start fluid. I don't know anything about these trucks much less a diesel engine. A guy took a look at it and said my engine needs to b replaced. (I think he is wrong)....
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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I have a 1999 Ford e350 7.3 powerstroke with 140000KMs on it.
The truck cranks really well but it just wont fire off, not even with a shot of starting fluid.
I recently changed all 8 glow plugs, fuel filter, fuel, oil and I keep it plugged in, my last mechanic told me the engine is toast and it cant be fixed.
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I have a 2001 E-350 with 7.3 that will not start on its own. It is showing only 80psi ICP while cranking. It started with the aid of some starting fluid it will run at 550 psi ICP but the ICP duty cycle is running over 20%. We started with less than 10 psi while cranking and after a new IPR was installed it's now at 80 psi while cranking. There is good battery voltage oil is at correct level the HPOP is full. I just don't know what to look at next.
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Ive got a 99 7.3 with 250,000 miles on it. It has run fine all day but just jumped in and won't start. It cranks over but won't fire. Check engine light doesn't come on. About two weeks ago it cut off twice at idle but haven't had that problem since.
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I have a '99 7.3 that I am working on for a friend. He was moving out west and got to the next state. He stopped to use the washroom, when he came out, the truck would crank but not start. He had it towed back to my house. I have some diagnostic information. Fuel pressure measured at the fuel rail in the head is 60 PSI for the passenger side head. I pulled the plug on the drivers side, it was under pressure and sprayed fuel.. I did not measure it there.
WTS light comes on and then goes off in a normal time frame. Tach shows around 500 RPM while cranking. Engine oil pressure on dash gauge builds up and Low Press Light goes off. Pulled the plug on the High Pressure Oil Res., oil is present at the top. Are there any other checks that I can do until I can get a scanner. My friend has a Snap-On, but he's almost 100 miles away.
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 5.4 in it. When I bought the truck the odometer and fuel gauge weren't working. So I tried disconnecting the battery and when I hooked it back up the odometer started working again and the fuel gauge went from below empty up to full then just dropped back down to below empty and won't move at all. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery again. And I know more than likely I will have to replace sending unit but trying not to if I don't have to.
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My '99 f350 lost a lot of power the other day, turned out the the injector harness got unplugged. So I swapped those out for oem ones, ohm tested the uvch and injector harness, put a brand new GPR, and still nothing. Cranks over but won't start, what else could it be?
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This past weekend I noticed I was loosing boost pressure on my 2003 7.3l F250 so I pulled my turbo out found the problem fixed it then put the turbo back in. After it was all said and done I went to start the truck up and it just cranked and cranked a cranked but no start. Worried I didn't hook something up right I checked and rechecked everything to do with the turbo, all good nothing out of the ordinary.
I tried to start again, nothing. Spent all day yesterday trying to figure this out. Replaced the cps still nothing. No movement in tach but I don't remember any on startup anyway. Drained the fuel filter had adequate pressure and such but replaced the filter anyway. Still nothing. Checker all my fuses, one by on and non were blown but I still tried disconnecting my fuel bowl heater and still got nothing. I tried disconnecting the Icp still nothing. There was no oil around the icp either.
I'm getting frustrated that the truck wont start, the truck ran perfectly fine before the turbo removal but now wont even give a sign of kicking up. Just cranks and cranks. Also checked Hpop to see if that's the cause and it's filled like to the brim. But when I'm cranking the truck about 10 sec into the oil pressure gauge kicks up and reads good but only when cranking.
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I have a 2002 f350 psd. I pulled it inside today to wash it. After washing it wouldn't start. Pcm is working. No oil pressure on guage and no reading on tach.
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Truck cranks wont start. Fuses and relays good, New motorcraft; IPR, ICP with pigtails, New T500 hpop, New 180/80 Injectors, Push rods, 910 valve springs, Mellings lpop. Motorcraft oil cooler.
Reservoir full, oil new 15-40w Amsoil, Rails full, Fuel bowl full and clean, HPOP drive gear rechecked and torqued.
RPM 180
Temp oil 88*
ICP duty cycle koeo 14.8, crank 64.85
ICP pressure 250 -450psi
ICP voltage .27-.50
Manual gauge on oil rail 250 -450psi when cranking
Inj pulse width .0005,
Buzz test was good
Vref 5v all sensors. 12v at IPR w/koeo
Fuel pressure 58psi
Air test hpop hear no leaks with stethoscope.
DTC codes: P1280, P0380
Also put straight edge across injectors to double check they were seated.
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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I have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
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Removed and resealed HPOP and fuel bowl. Now she won't start. Ran fine before pump & bowl was serviced. I had leakage that I wanted to clear up. I have made no less than eight 15-20 sec start attempts with out even a cough. Reservoir is full, fuel in bowl and over 140 RPM when cranking.
AE info:
IPC duty cycle - rises to over 60% during cranking
IPC voltage - .18 all the time
IPC psi - 0 all the time
I did verify I placed the ball between the pump face and the "non serviceable" pin. I did leave out the spring and check valve seat from one of the output connectors. That has been corrected.
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So I have recently did a body swap on my 7.3 I rolled. Put a body from another one this one. Before I took the old body off the engine ran fine. Nothing wrong at all.
Now that I have the new body on, I am stuck with a fuel shutoff switch. I read that it is suppose to be pressed down, but when it is pressed down, I turn the key and 4 relays under the hood click rapidly, 2 under the dash, and the drive side blinker blinks? Anyway, when I push it up, and turn the key, all the lights come on normally, wait to start light comes on. It'll crank good, the battery's are good, had them tested and fully charged. Checked ando triple check all battery connections and grounds. Anyway, it'll crank and want to start it fire up for a second and die. The low pressure oil gauge on the dash doesn't go up, but I think I broke the sensor connector for that. The fuel pump doesn't make any noise, the fuel bowl has fuel in it, but does fill up with fuel. So I'm thinking the fuel pump is somehow shorted out, so when I depress the fuel shutoff switch it makes everything go crazy. But even then the fuel pump doesn't make any noise?
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I have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
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1999 7.3l 6spd standard 4x4. Just bought the truck 4 months ago knowing it had a problem that once warm occasionally would t start. Happened a few times every week or two. But wait 15 minutes and the truck would fire back up. Then it started happening more often throughout a day. And I would have to wait longer for it to cool to start it up.
Icp has been changed
Cam sensor
Pulled valve covers to check to see if there were any injector o rings failing. They were all good. Put it all back together.
Pulled the IPR and tore it apart cleaned it all out
Started driving it ran great for a week. Then today sitting at a light the truck died just as if I had turned the key off. Wouldn't start for 3 hours. The. Fired up. Took it to buddies show and started checking things out again. Both batteries load test great and fully charged. Alternator pumping out 13.5 and up.
Codes i have pulled are waste gate to high /low
I forget the number for that one. The second was P1211. Cps has been changed and ipr cleaned. Think that I should replace the ipr of this happens again?
I did get w code a few weeks ago about low voltage at module. this code doesn't appear anymore. Since I checked the plug ins all looks good. But the PCM wasn't mounted properly. So I fixed that up and checked battery connections. They were very good so I re did all of that.
Anyway. Back to the problem. After ipr clean. Drove as she should until sitting at a light a week later. Truck just quit. Would t start back up until cold. Any thoughts. New IPR? Oil in hpop within half inch from top. And I don't seem to have any oil leaks. Did oil change fuel and air filter. Not low on any fluids. I had a 1997 too and threw a bunch of cash at it like this one trying to find the issues.
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I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
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It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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