Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Blowing Black Smoke / Code P1211
Sep 10, 2015
I have a 2003 F250CC 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it. I just purchased this truck about a month ago. My question is it blows black smoke. A little at idle but mostly when you give it any pedal. I have replaced all of the injector o rings and that didn't make a difference. Then I had it tested and it failed a CCT test on #2 cylinder. I have an injector to put in it, but am curious to find out if 1 bad injector would be enough to make it smoke all the time. I keep getting P1211 ICP pressure above desired. I had a friend of mine who used to work at a ford garage take a look at it with his computer and he said that everything looks good other than the CCT test.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
View 1 Replies
I have posted a pic of a smoke issue I am having while pulling.
I just pulled a 10,000 lb trailer up a few 7% grades at 8-10,000 ft and the best I could do was 40-45 mph at 6mpg. Every hill would set a P1211 and when the truck downshifted to 3rd the smoke would go away for the most part.
Truck is 100% stock and pulls the same as my F350 with 3.73 gears but smokes a lot more.
The smoke is kind of annoying and performance seems sluggish especially given the 4.88 gearing. Where to start?
Has new ipr, hpop, icp, fuel filter, air filter, fresh 5w40 mobil 1.
View 14 Replies
I had a p1211 code when I first got Torque Pro hooked up. I figured it was just because I'd done a couple WOT runs and the HPOP just can't quite keep up with the injectors. I was told this might happen when I ordered the injectors from Gear head. I also noticed that my ICP peaked at around 3600 during one of these runs. I don't have it logged, but I'm certain it was up that high.
The code hasn't returned, but I haven't been running it too hard either. I don't quite know what to make of the ICPs actually being that high. From looking at a bunch of Rich's graphs his doesn't really get past 2800 or 2900. Is this an incorrect reading? Do I need to worry about anything?
View 6 Replies
My wife returned home and stated that my excursion stopped running twice while she was driving it. She said both times were as she was letting off the throttle coming downhill an off ramp. Both times it fired right up and drove away fine.
I pulled the codes using torque app and it showed a p1211. Unfortunately I had just screwed up my gauge settings so I really didn't have any gauges set up so I couldn't use it. (It's for the 6.0 anyway).
After some Internet searching I am guessing it's an issue with the icp or ipr. How do I tell which one to replace? Truck does have a dp tuner normally set to 80 economy tune.
View 11 Replies
My truck gave me the p1211 code today. I'm Trying to use dash command to get more info. What should I be monitoring and how do I do it? I'm not familiar with these apps at all?
View 3 Replies
Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
View 5 Replies
I was on the way back from the weekend trip and got a service engine soon light. I didn't notice any lack of power, rough idle or hard starting cold or hot. So we pushed on home. I checked the codes and it is the P1211.
Doing some research it seems the ICP is not as expected so I hooked up my phone with the Torque app and the IPR and ICP seem to be close to normal at idle and running. I din't see any high IPR %.
At idle the IPR was around 15.5 cold and 10.1 after a short run to the store and back when it warmed up a bit. ICP was around 690-720 cold and 470-490 when i got back.
Does that seem like normal readings? I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on right away after starting the truck. I do have a TS performance chip that I will take out and see if that could be causing any problems. What else should I be looking into?
View 14 Replies
I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.
View 4 Replies
Normally I run around sea level at home but Iam on road trip in Wyoming at over 5000' elevation I am noticing alot more black smoke when towing. I run a DP tuner with 40 and 60hp tow mode. I also notice alot more black smoke in 60HP Econo Mode when not towing? Would this be typical due to the higher elevation?
View 2 Replies
Bought the x in feb, put in the billeted wheel, modified the turbo pedestal, put in dorman uppies, put my boost leak detector on it and had no leaks then. Also put on the walker btm and gauges at that point. Took my chip to a local to get tunes. I was pleased enough with the power, and can hit 24 psi. However, it smokes like a freight train if I give it much pedal. I don't drive it a ton, but in the last week I did a 400 mile trip to pick up a trailer, then 800 miles on vacation in Colorado. The fender flare by the exhaust is now black.
It has to be pulling a trailer or going up a decent hill while cruising at 70 to show any boost at all on the gauge. If I give it gas, it belches out the smoke, unless I get on it and get the boost to 10 or more. Most of the time while cruising along I don't need to speed up that much so it just smokes and doesn't build more than 2 psi boost.
My f350 by comparison usually runs 4-6 psi boost running down the road at 65, and slight movements of the accelerator can affect that number immediately.
I don't have my leak detector with me so I can't verify that I have no leaks right now, but I can still hit 24 psi... Last night I used oven cleaner and got the whole area around the turbo pretty clean. Drove it 60 miles today, and don't see any soot around anything, maybe it's to soon to tell? Is there anything else I should check, or is it as simple as getting new tunes?
View 10 Replies
6.0. 115,000 miles. Everything stock, except bully dog intake filter.
I replaced the FICM recently, with one that I bought from the guy who makes those cool You Tube videos, Diesel Tech Ron. I also replaced the EGR valve. I also replaced the intercooler boots on the hot side. I cleaned the intercooler pipes. I cleaned the intake filter as well. I'm still blowing out black smoke, if I floor it when I need to pass someone.
Follow up question: I bought those boots from Riff Raff Diesel and I bought new clamps, too. I'm not sure if I installed correctly. It's already blown one off (it blew the top of the intercooler pipe off, by the turbo, but the boot stays on the turbo) and I put it back on and tightened it all the way down, and I've had to re-adjust 2 times, now, since it acts like it still wants to slip off. Do I simply have the other ones misaligned???
View 14 Replies
Driving home 2003 6.0 started blowing a ton of black smoke, cars wouldn't get behind me. Found an exhaust leak on the driver side up y pipe. Would that cause this much smoke? 2 codes were 0284 and 0281, I replaced those injectors about 10k ago, at the same time replaced turbo, hpop, egr valve and cooler delete, and new oil cooler.
View 9 Replies
Found a 2004 Ex, Eddie Bauer edition says it has injector issues, blowing black smoke........ It is apart cause he thought it was the EGR. Has 245,000 on the clock. If the body is super clean I'll give him a offer, it's going to get a motor either way and I'll have my Ex back.............I really miss that truck!
View 2 Replies
Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
View 14 Replies
I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
View 14 Replies
So I've been having issues with starting my truck lately. It was really hard to turn over, would start really hard when it did and would blow some black smoke. Turns out my starter was bad so I replaced it with a DB Electric high torque starter. Now it starts up great... for the most part.
I'm still having some black smoke when it's a cold start and/or I have the key set to "On" to warm the glow plugs for a few seconds. It's almost like the starter is turning over the engine, but for the first few turns it sounds empty or hollow (at least that's the best way I can describe it). After the first turns it will sound normal how it's supposed to and will fire up shortly after but with some black smoke.
If my car is already warm it cranks right up without any smoke unless I have the key set to "On" for a few seconds to warm the glow plugs like I said earlier. Pretty much if I warm the glow plugs it makes it harder to start up for some odd reason.
What might cause this or how to fix it? Maybe some of my glow plugs are going bad, or possibly my IDM? I used to have the P1670 code by itself, however, that went away when I replaced the starter. I also just replaced my camshaft position sensor just to be sure it wasn't going bad. I've also been having some boost pressure leaks if that's relevant at all.
View 8 Replies
I have had a problem where truck would start jerking and sputtering in a certain town at low speeds. Today it happened in a new place. Barely got it to start back up. Was running rough after the puff of black smoke. Its stranded at a gas station. Recently replaced my sending unit. Was running good. Clean gas tank. Fuel lines tight. Where should I begin? I have an ICP sensor in the glove box. Truck wouldn't start.
View 8 Replies
Ok I have a 2004 f250 6.0L, has 104k on it. A little back story... truck was running well when I started to get surging on takeoff and it was blowing black smoke when it surged. After it hit 1600 rpm it would blow out and run normal. So did some research and found it could be the FCIM, I have the 4 pin and tested it and had 48.5v so it tested good. Did some more research and found symptoms leading towards the ICP so I replaced that and the ICR also.
Upon doing this my surging issue cleared up but now I'm getting a miss around 1200 + rpm weather it's in park Reving it or driving, but it is not throwing any codes, I did check with my code reader. I have also changed both fuel filters and have the EBP sensor on order as I hear they can be troublesome. My question is what should I do next or look at? I was trying to avoid the dealer so I can learn more about the truck in diagnosis.
View 14 Replies
I have always seen other trucks blow black smoke with towing up a hill but mine for the most part has not. I pulled my 5er to CO this summer and notice my truck starting to blow black smoke. I consider myself a very conservative driver. I always stay around 65 MPH while towing and never push my truck up the hills. I always try to keep the RPM around 2000 and let the MPH fall where they may until I reach the summit. With the black smoke I'm starting to see what is my truck trying to tell me? It's not bad but would like to fix now before it becomes something more.
2001 F250, 4X4 crew cab, 7.3 with 205,000 miles.....
View 10 Replies
I have a 2003 Superduty with 193k miles that is bone stock. I sold the truck to a friend and when he decided to not pay the remaining balance on the truck, I took back ownership. The truck was having heating issues and it set at a mechanic shop for nearly 2 years waiting for a diagnosis on the heating issue. Fast forward to the present and I now have the truck at my home. Heating issue was the radiator but this is no longer a concern. When I went to pick up the truck from the mechanic, the truck started fine. Every other day for the last 4-5 weeks I would start the truck with no problems.
I get the truck tagged and start driving it on a daily basis. I've put several hundred miles on it but the more I drive it, the less it wants to start. Now it's to a point where it only cranks but won't start. I can take a gas rag and hold it in the intake and eventually it will start. Once it's running, it runs great and has no issues starting. But once it sets for 3-4 hours, it won't start without some sort of assistance.
While trying to find the issue, I've found and repaired 2 fuel leaks and in the process I replaced fuel filter, air filter, replaced glow plug relay, replaced batteries, replaced CPS. Fuel pump is working fine. I've tried the ICP test and doesn't make a difference.
The glow plug light or WTS light works so don't think its the GP. The CES light was on. Had it scanned and it was the air bag sensor so no support from the CES.
While I was working on it yesterday and after cranking on it for 5-10 minutes, it would act like it was going to start and black smoke would be coming out from the exhaust. I let it set to cool the starter it fired up like it had no issues.
View 14 Replies
