Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Front End Rebuilt - Hopping And Vibrating At Any Speed Or RPM
Sep 9, 2014
I recently (1month ago) rebuilt my entire front end. The only things that were not replaced are track bar, steering box, front driveshaft, and sway bar bushings. I'm having the same issues that I had before the rebuild. It just feels like the front is is on basketballs. Hopping and vibrating at any speed or rpm. On a smooth road or on the highway it feels like I'm hitting bumps that aren't there.
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I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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Paid a shop 9000 to rebuild engine. Went to pick it had a major oil leak from back of the motor. They pulled the Trans and resealed the back plate. I test drove the truck and had some boost leaks and the AC needed charged. They pulled the truck in this morning and fixed those items. Now the truck will not move in any gear.
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I test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Once out on the main road it shifted by itself into overdrive for the first time and immediately the O/D light started flashing. I drove it home and shut her off. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues. With a snap-on scanner hooked up I let it go into overdrive and O/D light started flashing again, not immediately maybe 5 seconds after shifting into O/D.
Codes are:
p1316 IDM codes detected
P0717 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0715 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0500 VSS fault
10 minutes ago was my last test, O/D flashes only after it has shifted into overdrive. I checked the transmission wire harness and all connections are tight, trans oil level is good & trans temp never went above 150. Could this be a faulty VSS?
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I went to check out a '03 7.3 SD the other day. It didn't seem to have a lot of surge when I accelerated to freeway speeds. Kind of lazy feeling. Didn't smoke out the back though. It did have a front end clunking sound going over the parking lot speed bumps. I opened the oil fill cap while it was idling and it blew a plume of vapor/oil about 9' high like a steam engine puffing. Held my hand over it and got a oil wet palm after just a few seconds. I'm hesitant to drop any $$ on it.
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Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
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I have a 2000 4x4 Limited 7.3 Powerstroke. 290k miles and runs like a top. However, if I don't plug it in for a few hours before starting she sounds like an old John Deere Poppin' Johnny. I had the glow plugs replaced yet had to go back to the repair shop three times since because it threw a code each time. No codes now just rough shaking and vibrating start for about 5min (without plugging in block heater) or so then once warmed up she runs great.
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Had the front end axle replaced due to a boot that was ripped on the CV joint. Three months later the front end is vibrating while increasing speed and passing. The shop is telling me its my transmission?! Doesn't sound right to me. So i take it to another shop and they say its the axle. Okay its under warrenty but the other shop says its the transmission.
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I've been trying to track down a lack of power with my 7.3 for a few months now. I've had the truck for 8 years and there's just something off with it lately. When warm under a light load, such as accelerating while cruising at 40mph or going up a light hill at 30mph+, around 1100 to 1400rpm, there's just a distinct lack of power.
The engine starts lugging and the injector or valve noise increases dramatically until I push the throttle down far enough (60%+) for the transmission to downshift. Once it downshifts the engine sounds normal and takes off like it should.
At higher RPMs, it's seems to run okay, but it feels a bit down on power there. Otherwise, it starts great, idles pretty well with a slight miss, and no smoke that I've been able to see.
When it's dead cold in the morning, it seems to run better than any other time of the day.
I don't have any trouble codes other than a disconnected EPBV. One morning I did get P1670 when the engine nearly died when coming to a stop. I'm chalking that one up as a fluke due to a broken valve cover harness connector tab.
The truck has 170k miles and is mostly stock: AFE intake, 4" exhaust, and no muffler. It has an old Edge Evo programmer (yeah, yeah) that I removed a while back. I going to put it back on so I can monitor my EGTs.
The ICP, IPR%, and boost are all within spec. Buzz test sounds fine. CCT says #8 is bad with the grey CPS. Here's a datalog of a full throttle 70mph run.
[URL] ......
Recently I've decided to fix known problems:
HPOP line leak to the driver side bank
All Injector O-rings (black diesel in fuel bowl, suspicious oil consumption)
Replaced leaking intercooler couplers
EBP tube clogged, causing 0 boost sporadically, bypassed it by teeing into MAP sensor hose.
Various cam position sensors: grey (B), new dark blue (C)
Replaced leaking ICP sensor with generic sensor 6 months ago and unfortunately can't find original to test with. 2900psi without a tune seems a bit high, but reads consistently otherwise.
New fuel pump
Added service port to fuel bowl and measured 60-64psi at idle
Some things I have left to try:
Measure fuel pressure under load
Try out a parts store CPS I forgot I had.
Ziptie/secure broken valve cover harness connectors
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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When I'm driving at highway speed and press the accelerator after coasting a bit, the engine stumbles then picks up and accelerates. The fuel bowl assembly is brand new as of 5 months ago, and I drained of any water last month when I changed oil. Truck is stock with 350k miles.
Apart from this issue, it runs well and idles smoothly. Injectors are healthy per a buzz test a powerstroke mechanic performed last year. What could cause the stumble off idle?
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Truck (02' , 7.3 ) has check engine light and since I'm on vacation don't have access to my Autoenginuity diagnostic software, so looks like I'll have to go a auto parts outlet to get the code read.
But.... before I do I wanted to get some input from y'all. Basically what happens is the idle goes up while in gear and when I put it in neutral, idle goes back down to normal. In addition I noticed (yesterday) somewhat of a lope or stumble at idle while in gear. No stalling and no effect to fuel mileage.
Since I'm away and away from my tools I'm somewhat limited. Certainly once I get the code I'll know more.
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What is the speed you have to be driving before the airbag will pop off in the event of a frontal collision? just wondering.
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2001 ford excursion 7.3l diesel.
So I tried to go to work today but the truck said no. it started out fine then out of no where it felt as if someone slammed on the back brakes engine still revved up like normal just didn't want to go. speed dropped to 20mph then i heard a clunk. after that it was fine until it hit 20 mph again. it did the same thing again.
So I got mad at it thinking the trans went out gave it the beans and it shifts into all gears but did not feel like it had power. i did pull over and check the fluid looked a little orange. when got back in the truck i did notice the od off light blinking?? drove the truck home was shifting fine but hear this awesome sounded like a hand grenade rattling around underneath. when i got home notice fluid coming from the bell housing(out of the bottom).
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Ok I have had this noise going on for about 1 week before transmission went out. I just built the trans and its still there.
I had a mishap years back with front end hub bearings so I replaced with New Timken Bearings. Well that wasn't it but at least I know where I
stand with those. It starts making a noise when slowing down about 3-5 seconds before coming to a stop. I thought maybe the carrier bearing in
driveshaft?
Pinion bearing in rear diff? I need to service the parking brakes on rear so I may pull it down and go through it.
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I am having trouble with my 1999 F350 Ford Powerstroke, Looses power but the motor never quits and also starts up fine, will set and run and warm up on the coldest morningIdles fine, It will hold back sometimes and not increase speed. I can take it out today and it may be fine and tomorrow can't run 2 miles. I was thinking CPS but after reading information I am not sure. What may be causing this issue. I just put a High Pressure oil pump on it could this have anything to do with it. Was not having a problem before the pump was changed. The pickup has 190,000 on it actual miles.
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I have recently picked up an older F350 2WD 7.3 DRW Lariat. the price was right higher miles but hey it is a 7.3, overall in very good shape.
So the issue at hand is the truck runs great most of the time and puttering around at city speeds you would never know there is any issue;
Get the truck out on the highway set the cruse at 70 to 72 and if you hit a rise in the road or other reason to slightly accelerate the truck chugs and bucks. For lack of a better description it goes chug chug chug, if you accelerate harder to downshift it goes away or if you back off the throttle it goes away. This happens with cruse on or off, a steady foot on the pedal will cause this as well.
I have also noticed that when you let off the throttle the sound the truck makes de-fueling is just very different and "off" sounding . Not sure how to describe it but it sounds funky ... clearly not right when compared to other 7.3 or my 6.0 truck.
What I have done, :
1. Had the truck scanned with an AE and a snap-on scanner both show no codes ran injector tests no contribution errors, not even in # 8.
2. Changed fuel filter
3. Changed Oil and Filters ( tried both full synthetic Rotella and Dino oil looking for a difference )
4. Cleaned out the fuel filter housing just in case.
5. Confirmed injector O-Rings are not leaking
This feels like a fuel issue, my next thought was start looking at fuel pressure under load at speed to see if there was a drop when this is happening ?
Is there a way to test fuel pumps in this truck ? Maybe a clogged pick-up screen ? Where do I start looking next ? I have reasonable mechanical skills but don't know this motor very well, this doesn't seem like a CPS issue..
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I have a 1999 F250 4-wheel drive with a 6-speed tranny. The tranny is several old but has only around 100k on a rebuild. Three times recently it has stuck in 6th gear (overdrive) and I had to get really rough with the stick to get to come out. Afterwards the stick felt "thick" for a while and eventually everything seems to go back to normal. Not for sure but it may have started after pulling a heavy load, around 16k, which is not unusual for the truck. Other than the times it stuck and shortly after, the tranny seems perfect.
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I just noticed today while driving to lunch today that at lower speed and tons I can here an intermittent hissing sound. But as I speed up and build boost it goes away. Not sure what could be causing this sound. it sounds like it could be some sort of pressure leak or exhaust leak I have no clue...
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The noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
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