Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Hard To Start / Whitish Smoke When Cranking
Nov 15, 2015
This is kind of strange, I have a hard start problem, when I crank it the first time, it fires immediately, kind of like a romp, but doesn't start, then when I crank again I get a lot of whitish smoke and no start. I read to try and unplug the ICP and try it. That worked, and I had oil in the connector. I replaced the ICP, but have the same problem. I still have to unplug the ICP for the truck to start. When it does start, it runs great! No injector stiction, no smoke, no rough idle, it runs and sounds great. Why unplugging the ICP is still required to start? (Only after sitting for more than 10-12 hours).
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Fine one day, no start the next. Been skimming over the 7.3 no start thread, so w got some ammo for him to check. White smoke while cranking, rpms move while cranking. Nothing to read codes or other sensors YET. Tried the unplug ICP and it "wanted" to fire. So, I have him my spare IPR to try. I'm sure he checked the fuses but will confirm via text...
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I've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
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I have a 2001 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. 48,000 miles. I've been having trouble with cold starts. So far it has always started but is taking a lot of cranking, but it hasn't gotten too cold yet so I'm worried about when it does. I ohmed out the the glow plugs and am getting close to 0 resistance. The GPR has 12.5 volts on the hot side and when the relay is closed 10.5 on the other side. Is that difference in voltage in the GPR enough to screw up the Glow Plugs heating up? If I plug it in at night it starts right up. I'm worried about when I am at work for 16 hours and don't have a place to plug it in this winter. BTW this is my first winter with the truck.
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So I've been having issues with starting my truck lately. It was really hard to turn over, would start really hard when it did and would blow some black smoke. Turns out my starter was bad so I replaced it with a DB Electric high torque starter. Now it starts up great... for the most part.
I'm still having some black smoke when it's a cold start and/or I have the key set to "On" to warm the glow plugs for a few seconds. It's almost like the starter is turning over the engine, but for the first few turns it sounds empty or hollow (at least that's the best way I can describe it). After the first turns it will sound normal how it's supposed to and will fire up shortly after but with some black smoke.
If my car is already warm it cranks right up without any smoke unless I have the key set to "On" for a few seconds to warm the glow plugs like I said earlier. Pretty much if I warm the glow plugs it makes it harder to start up for some odd reason.
What might cause this or how to fix it? Maybe some of my glow plugs are going bad, or possibly my IDM? I used to have the P1670 code by itself, however, that went away when I replaced the starter. I also just replaced my camshaft position sensor just to be sure it wasn't going bad. I've also been having some boost pressure leaks if that's relevant at all.
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When it is cold out side like 20 degrees I'm having problems starting my 2000 7.3 I'm cycling it about 5 times and misses smokes white for a bit then stays running I was thinking of changing out the fuel filter. What it could be?
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My 2001 7.3 was smoking excessively and I rebuilt the turbo and the center cartridge was at fault for that. I'm still having some of the problems I was having before with a lot of smoke at cold start (I have to hold the accelerator down while I start it and it takes about 10 seconds to start) even when I hold it I have to keep it held for about 5-10 seconds before the RPMs get to where they should be. And it smokes like crazy.
Then after about 3 minutes warming up, or 30 seconds of me holding it at 3500 rpm, the idle smooths out and it only smokes a little. Then once I start driving it doesn't smoke a lot unless I go hammer down then it puffs some white smoke. I took the oil cap off and it isn't huge amounts of blow by cap just rattles off. Can ford buzz test and see if I only have 1 or 2 bad injectors? Could this be anything other than injectors? It has a ts6 on it with 24xxxx miles with factory injectors.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, and I have been trying to figure out a hard cold start issue that also causes whitish grayish smoke to come out of the tailpipe when I first start the car.
When I first start the car after it has sitting at least 8-10+ hours the engine will crank over and being starting up but its almost as if it hesitates and then fully starts up. Once it does start the smoke will come out of the tailpipe for about 10 - 30 seconds and smells somewhat of burning fuel. I think the problem may be a leaking fuel injector. When I use my car during the day this issue doesn't happen at all after first startup
Coolant level and color : Normal no changes
Oil Color and level : Normal no changes
Tune Up: Done about 2 months ago
I uploaded a video to youtube of the car starting up here [URL] ....
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This morning I went to start her up, and she fired right up and I let her warm up until oil temp got to 100F, when I realized that I wasn't leaving right away so I shut it down and came back about an hour later. Oil temp now at 78F, but she wouldn't start. Have Torque Pro running, and the IPR is going straight to 98.6% every time while cranking, sits at 14.7% with KOEO.
Truck's been running fine, recent oil/filter change (T6 10-40W), cleaned & re-installed CAC tubes/boots for leaks. All else seems good. Pulling the ICP sensor shows HPOP going to 2800psi, with IPR @ 30%, still no start and not even a cough.
The IPR is original, rebuilt once several years ago.
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2007 F350 CCLB, Still stock, 130k miles. SCT Tuner for towing and MPG (canned tunes).. I am new to the diesel world so just making sure.
Since we started getting colder mornings I have noticed a small amount of white, or blueish white smoke on start up for about 5 secs or so. Last week in Montana I did notice the light smoke for about 5 secs then looked like vapor for about 1 min (was about 30 degrees out)
Only during the first start of the day on cooler mornings (45 and under) have i noticed it, nothing while driving, no knocks or hard start, no codes. I am about due for an oil change (Delo in there right now but switching to syn), and do have the canned tow tune from SCT on there. Anything I should have checked or should check, I am decent with wrench.
Also I have noticed the blue sleeve that goes to the front of turbo coming from the front of the truck (maybe the cooler?), kinda looks like rubber gets a slightly dirty coating to it, not sure if normal or related.
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Was driving to work about 4 miles into my travel rolled around corned and she died..... tow bill and cps she fired rite up. Ran at idle in drive way because I was a little leary for about an hour left drive way went 2 miles went to pull in to store died again. Another tow bill and 2 more cps still won't start rpm is only like 200 when cranking but sounds like a lot more. The wts light works, batteries are pretty new, cps in new...
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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Truck started running rough on way home the other day. First gave me P0404 code and would get black smoke along with whitish smoke coming from the tail pipe. I haven't been able to notice or track an amount of coolant loss yet.
Swapped EGR valve this morning and now noticed this once she kicked into high idle (still warming up). About to hook up the IDS, hoping I this is not head gasket .
[URL] .....
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
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Alright. 99 Ford F-250 4x4 Ext Cab 287,000 miles. I know she is getting a little long in the tooth but this issue is new within the last month. It does seem to be better when it has been plugged in. On start up I smoke out the neighborhood. Blueish/White smoke, also sounds like it's missing on a couple injectors. Doesn't matter if you cycle the glowplugs a good long time. No luck. Glow plugs are 1 1/2 years old along with injector o rings. Only thing new is I changed from Rotella T-6 to Delo 5W40 Syn, but it was doing it before the switch as well. I tested my glowplugs relay and that is working fine. Could I have lost a UVCH? Fuel filter six months ago or so.
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For the past few days I noticed my truck would be really rough to start and a lot of white smoke. but once it ran for a minute or less it would be fine. Today when I got home I popped the hood and was looking for anything and noticed my degas bottle had this weird fluid inside on top of the coolant? So I popped the cap off and smelt it and its fuel. Of course this would happen to me. Now I'm not going to lie I have beat on it a few times this week but nothing so so serious.
Could this be contributing to it? Could it be a head gasket? now being a diesel mechanic I doubt its a head gasket simply because there is no oil mixing. I am praying its nothing too major. Once I have the narrowed down to what it could be ill see if its something I could tackle or if the stealership has to do it, which I am not looking forward to. I'd rather be down a truck for a little bit and save a boat load of cash.
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Here's the deal. 99 Powerstroke out new injectors and orings. Did orings twice to make sure i didn't damage it. New turbo, new utvc gasket, new ipr, new fuel pump, I new complete engine wire harness. I pulled the injectors and ran in another truck no problem. New injector cups compression was all in the 300-375 range. Any cold start smokes like hell. Goes away when driving after the first time of hitting boost. Spits and shudders for a few seconds until boosting. Every time I stop it starts smoking again at idle. No power loss not using oil. Can't get a grasp on this smoking issue. When cold start I kill millions of mosquitos in a one-mile radius.
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2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
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