I've been looking for a remote start system to install on my truck it has no remotes of any kind now. I've been googling most of the day and i can't seem to find anything except something that hooks to a edge tuner of some kind.
View 6 RepliesWhat are the installation instructions for remote start p/n bb5z-19g364-c going into 2011 edge
View 1 RepliesI am sure some of use around the forums have seen some of Diesel Tech Ron's videos, well in this video he is installing one of Bulletproof Diesel's remote Oil Coolers on a 6.0
Bulletproof Diesel's remote mounted oil cooler install on a 6.0 Powerstroke - YouTube
I like the idea of these if you ever have to do any work on the Oil cooler or replace it it would make it pretty quick and you don't have top spend a day tearing the engine apart
I haven't hear of too many people having issues with remote coolers set up's like this. Maybe there are some remote oil coloer owners that have em that can shed some light on how they have worked so far on their 6.0's ...
I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
View 1 RepliesSo I posted a while back about fixing all the leaks I had and what I was going to do. I finally completed all the repairs and reinstalled the engine and it won't start. Cranked a bunch and checked oil level in hpop its good so I pulled plugs in oil rails there is oil present there, cracked the yellow valve on fuel bowel there is fuel there. unplugged the icp sensor and cranked more still no indication of wanting to start.
View 14 RepliesI bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
Looking for pics of where/how they mounted their fuel pressure gauge? I'm getting ready to install one.
View 11 RepliesI have an 2002 7.3 powerstroke. It has a super chips installed, set on heavy tow mode. When throttle is on the foot and I start up a hill check engine light comes on. Code is for icp fault or uncontrollable. Also happens on cruise but more often on the foot. Have to reset to get check engine light off. Light stays off til I go to pull a hill again. I am also pulling a horse trailer with 1-4 horses. Could the programmer be causing this?
View 4 RepliesNot near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
View 6 RepliesI have been reading here about alternate methods to torquing the hold down bolts for the injectors. This winter I replaced my old stock split shots with new alliant single shots. I installed the injectors into a cold engine and torqued the hold down bolts to 10 ft lbs. I did not ever go back and re-tighten.
Is it suggested to go in and re-tighten the injector hold down bolts to 10 ft-lbs after the engine has been heated up and cooled down? What are some symptoms of a loose injector? I am imagining premature wear on the injector cups, low compression and maybe some mixing of oil into the combustion chamber.
Did just throw the injectors in and go back later to retorque only to find they were all fine or were some loose?
I have bought a used 1999 F250 4-door 4X4 7.3. Is there any way to tell if my truck came with a remote for the keyless entry. It has power door locks and windows. I was debating on calling my local Ford dealership and seeing if they could check by the VIN number.
View 7 RepliesWith snow on the ground all winter here (usually), and the summers getting into the 90's I was thinking about getting a remote start system. I know Viper is the big name but I just want something to start it, not do a bunch of prima donna functions I don't need. I normally do everything myself but electrical is not my forte and I hear that a DIY person can't get much info because they think only installers should do it. Also from what I gather, it takes a relay due to the transponder key. I am thinking $200 max and I hear Best Buy can do it all.
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
I am new to the F150 section. I come from the 7.3L Powerstroke area of the form, but am happy to have my new F150. Back in the day I made lots of F250 and 7.3L how to videos. I hope to do lots of videos on the F150 as well.
My first task was to add OEM Remote Start. I can't take credit for any of the information I've used in the video, I just assembled it onto YouTube! Trying to add OEM remote start.
YouTube...
I just installed a new MBRP 5'' exhaust system in my 7.3. I have only put a few miles on the truck since it was installed and I now have a black thick oily residue in the tailpipe. The exhaust system had some sort of oil in it when it was shipped. I remember getting it on my hands when installing it. I think the oil in my tailpipe is just the oil burning out of the exhaust system which mixes with soot that turns it black. When I installed the new up-pipe, the exhaust side of the turbo was dry. Like I said, I haven't ran the truck many miles with the new system yet. A few friends of mine have looked at the exhaust and they think I have a bad turbo seal. I didn't have any oil in the exhaust with the old system. It was sry. My truck has 135,000 miles on the original turbo. I hope my turbo seals aren't bad.
View 7 RepliesSo I installed a new IPR valve. Now it cranks but wont turn over. I read something about how the IPR valve has to be 'clocked" in the same exact position it was in when I took it out? Would this cause my truck not to turn over? Truck has never not started before.
When I tightened it down, it was not in exact position as the old one. If I wanted it in exact position as old one, it would have not been tightened correctly. I couldn't make one more full turn around. what do u think???
I just installed a new water pump and thermostat on my truck, and now hardly any heat? I let the truck run for almost an hour without the radiator cap on. And I added coolant back up to the full level. I took it for an almost 100 mile ride and the temp level hardly even moved off of cold? And it is hardley even blowing warm air with the heater on hi.
View 8 RepliesAs the title states, I have a 05 Sport Trac, just plain Jane. No keyless entry, no remote start, no steering wheel tilt. Just standard. I am wanting to install a Viper 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit to it. I just don't know if I will need any extra parts? I've tried googling and all kinds of stuff but cant find a straight answer. Some sites say I need an immobilizer bypass, some say I don't.
View 1 RepliesMy charging system light in my 2000 F250 keeps coming on and off and very random times. Its been happening for quite sometime now and I finally joined FTE so I figured I would ask everyone what could be causing this. Ive disconnected all the electrical plugs from the alternator and made sure they were in there well.
It all started when I was cleaning my engine not too long after getting the alternator replaced. I don't remember getting any water anywhere near the alternator and cant understand anything causing this other than the connectors. It will cut on and then cut right off sometimes and then sometimes it comes on and stays on...
'99 7.3, 258k miles, looses oil fast, oil found in coolant (though not a lot) and the fuel bowl is full of oil.
I re-ringed the oil cooler. Most of the coolant and oil is drained. The HPOP holds its oil level and does not leak down.
Someone shared the below test. Though it says #4 ORB, the actual thread on my IPR is #8. I removed the IPR and threaded in the #8ORB to air hose adapter. I regulated the pressure to 20 psi. The air is rushing out of the CCV.
I suspect I am missing something in the below test and that I'm pushing air back through the low pressure oil pump and into the crank case.
The test shared with me elsewhere:
Apparently someone named "Cody" on the forum did a test and it was labeled that way.
AIR TESTING THE HPO SYSTEM:
7.3L Powerstroke engines may experience hard start and or no start issues. In some cases the no-start issue may occur only with the engine hot. If the observed ICP pressure during cranking is less than the required 500 PSI, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system.
One of the first checks that should be made is to remove the plug from the top of the high pressure oil reservoir (in front of the fuel filter) to observe if the reservoir is full. If the oil is standing within an inch of the top of the reservoir, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system and could be caused by one of three things:
- The high pressure oil pump itself
- The IPR Valve
- A high pressure oil leak
Tools: Adaptor ORB #4, Air Compressor capable of maintaining 90-100 psig, Air Line Adaptors which will allow connection to the #4 OBR , IPR Test Harness, Grease Gun Whip or any whip with a .0625" NPT.
Remove the IPR valve and insert the ORB #4 Adaptor. Attach Shop Air and pressurize the system. Wait for approximately 30 - 60 Seconds while the air travels throughout the HPO System. Listen for air escaping through the Oil Fill Tube (cap removed).
External high pressure oil leaks would have, of course, been obvious. The primary concern is internal leaks under the valve cover(s). These could include leaking injector O-rings, or leaking injectors. Listen for any air escaping under the valve covers and correct if present.
If the center injector O-ring has failed, high pressure oil may be forced into the fuel system. Remove the fuel filter cap and observe for air bubbles in the fuel. If necessary, individual fuel lines running from the fuel filter assembly to the cylinder heads can be disconnected in order to isolate the problem to which side it is occurring.
2. 7.3L: If no air leaks are observed, the next step is to isolate whether the problem is with the IPR or the high pressure oil pump. Remove the IDM fuse or unplug the IDM or injector connectors at the valve covers to prevent starting.
3. If this test does not assist in diagnosing the issue, remove both valve covers and witness oil from the deflectors as being uniform, look closely at the injector base for any sign of air or oil escaping during test. This is an indication of a loose injector or O-Ring failure.
The same can be done at the ICP Ports (Oil Rail) on either side to determine leaking O-Rings in that Bank.
I have a new to me 1999 F250 with the 7.3 engine. The previous owner installed a push button start to get around the ignition actuator being broke. Over the weekend I pulled the column and replaced the actuator but the truck will still not start with the key; with the push button it starts just fine. I'm not getting any power on the starter relay signal wire, so I suspect something in between the key and starter relay. I searched around a bit, but could not find a wiring diagram for a 1999 diesel super duty.
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