If I switch to synthetic will I be able to stretch out my changes? Currently do it @ 5k miles with rotella triple, was thinking about trying T6 and extending changes to 8k miles
View 14 RepliesMechanic at work told me to run 10-15 k.
My truck is my daily driver for work and such. Occasional 300 mile round trips to see family.
Last time I changed my oil was in June. And I've put about 6500 miles on it.
I run royal purple 15-40
I just not sure what to believe. Maybe someone has a link to an article ?
I have a 1999 7.3 psd F-450. It's rigged out for welding with a Lincoln SA-200 engine driven welder. My overall weight is approx. 11,500 lbs. and I rarely tow with it. It has a 4 speed automatic and 4.89 ratio gears in it now. I bought it with 245/70/19.5 tires. Stock size is 225/70/19.5. I am going broke trying to keep the fuel light from staying on all the time, and I am considering changing the gear ratio. My questions are; Is this a wise investment, as far as cost vs. gain? I also need to know if it may create a higher risk of other mechanical failures? I need to research what other ring and pinion ratios can be used in the ford 10.5 12 bolt rear axle. Money is hard to come by these days, and even harder to keep. I cannot afford a costly mistake if the funds can be more effective elsewhere.
View 14 RepliesWill it work? My ring and pinion is fubar and I found a 06 with 99K local. I know I would have to change the brakes to fit my 16" wheels...Anything else y'all can think of?
View 3 RepliesI'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
I did a bunch of reading before I bought this truck, and the seller said it really just needed a new battery as far as he could tell... When I bought it, I drove a considerable distance with no problems, other than it seeming to be a little sluggish with acceleration.
I have not seen any leaks anywhere, and all of the visible reservoirs appear to be nominal. No odd exhaust (really clean/invisible, in fact). No weird sounds, and running engine has a pretty even sounding cadence.
I initially changed all of the shocks because the old ones appeared to be original and were severely corroded/rusted. There is some surface rust elsewhere as this truck was apparently used in agricultural setting.
I replaced the battery and it was starting fine for a few weeks, but it would intermittently crank with no start, and would sometimes die within a few minutes after starting. I also charged the a/c with 134a, and it is blowing cold.
So... yesterday, I changed the oil, and installed a Fram Tough-Guard filter and precisely 15 quarts of oil (dipstick shows right level). I also changed the air filters, and disassembled and reassembled the air-cleaner to turbo hoses. While the hoses were disassembled, I took off the relays (AIH/GPR) and reinstalled an aftermarket GPR (crappy foreign-made one). No start. Several times. I reinstalled the original GPR. No start. Several times.
Even tried to jump it from my running Explorer. Still no start. (When I say no start, I mean that it will crank, but not turn over).
I am scheduled to take this truck into the dealership tomorrow for the recall issues (CPS), but I can't drive it there right now. Did I mess something up with the crappy GRP? Why wouldn't it start after reinstalling the original?
Another observation -- I had my batteries tested just now, and they are around 60%. I have ordered a new Alternator because this one looks original and is likely not charging the batteries. Still, I figured if I jumped it, it would start.
Does the yellow injector solenoid cap change color with mileage and age?
I have a guy that has a set of injectors out of a truck that got scrapped. He's estimating mileage at 40k based on the fact that they caps are still yellow claiming that caps start to discolor around 60k and they get darker with miles/age.
I'll be running my 2013 f-350 diesel with a 6,500 lb load on it at interstate speeds, steep, western mountain back roads, lots of dirt roads and some tortuous 4x4 in low range 1st gear. Been doing the same thing with a 1988 f-250 for the past 25 years and it was also pulling a four horse trailer. No horses any more but Ford owners manual seems to indicate I should think in terms of 5,000 mi maintainance intervals and use 5w-40 oil. I bought a 7,500 mi maintenance plan. Always did my own before. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 5,000 mi plan and 100% synthetic 5w-40.
View 6 RepliesMy mother-in-law just bought a 2009 Tiguan, and she's just over 5k miles. I looked in the owner's manual, and in booklet 1.1, page 37, it looks like service is every 5k miles, just like on my A4 and my wife's Passat. However, the dealer is telling me that VW recommends 10k service on the Tiguan. What am I missing? Is the dealer wrong? Am I misunderstanding the Owner's Manual?
View 10 RepliesI had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
View 6 RepliesI have a 2013 Corolla with full synthetic (0W-20). The dealer states this type of oil is only changed every 10k miles. I'm used to changing my oil every 3500-5000 mi. I'm not too keen on their recommendations but $70 for an oil change outside of the Toyota Care package is a little steep.
View 14 Repliesok I have a 07 civic which I bought used, It of course has the indicator which says when service etc is due, my main concern is the oil life indicator, I have had the car 8 months changed the oil when it was due, I put 6100 miles on it, is this ok? I had an 02 civic which i bought new and change the oil every 3 to 4 k, I know the experts say you can go longer now, I do mixed driving city.
View 6 RepliesIf you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
This is my first Lexus and first new car in a long time. I have a 2015 3IS RWD and looking through the Services Guide I don't see any service interval for replacing the rear diff fluid or the trans fluid. All the manual says is under "inspect the following" check diff fluid level and check trans for leaks--and that the trans is a closed unit with no dip stick.
As far as my automotive knowledge goes, all transmissions are closed and yet many in the past have had dip sticks. Also, I've never heard of just topping off diff fluid if you're low. And both definitely have had service intervals! I change the diff fluid in my S2000 every 15K miles.
I find it hard to believe that the Diff and Trans fluid doesn't EVER need to be replaced.What are the service intervals for these two and the fluid weights?
Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
Does the 2014 es300h have a timing belt that requires changing at specific intervals? The dealer told me he thought they are using a timing chain hence no scheduled maintenance.
View 6 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
View 6 RepliesI have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
View 14 RepliesI just had the Local Ford dealer perform an oil change. I noticed the motor running a tad different almost right away but put it off thinking it was something else going on. well i get several miles down the road and anytime i accelerate there is a noticeable vibration and little power. I also noticed that both my water temp and EOT were above 200*. I called the dealer and of course the service department had gone home for the day. I will be calling first thing tomorrow morning.
My drive from work to the dealer is well over 20 miles and at 60-65 my water never got above 189 and the EOT never got above 195. so after oil change water temp got to 205 and EOT was at 215 at the max. This is with no load going 55 mph on the hwy. I have a Ford Premium warranty on the truck as well and this is why I decided to have them do the oil change. they have done the previous oil change as well with no issues.