Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: P0683 Code - SES Light Is On All The Time
Apr 24, 2017
First off, I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3L so I have a GPCM and not a glow plug relay.
I'm getting a P0683 code. My SES light is on all the time. I have a voltmeter plugged into the dash outlet and based on prior behavior, it is definitely not lighting the glow plugs now. The voltage isn't dropping enough. It only goes down to 12.35v or so when the engine is cold. This time of year, it gets to around 70 during the day and 45 or so at night so the plugs aren't strictly needed. It starts without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what could be wrong. The connections are all tight to the GPCM. I've wiggled and pushed them in as far as they go. I recently did a lot of work to the engine, including new injectors, glow plugs, 38R, etc. and I've never had this code before doing any of that work.
I've read a bunch of threads on it... is there any way to troubleshoot this, or do I just get a new GPCM? Can I convert to a GPR? I don't plan on having to pass CA smog as I'm probably moving at the end of the year.
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I have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
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I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
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Had the GPCM off for the recent injector reseal job. Kid called me after school let out that it started like dog doo, has this code.
I am guessing something got chaffed or broke between the PCM and the controller.....I don't want to just throw a new controller at it.
How to test this? I am guessing there is a wire from the PCM to the controller that is not making the connection.
I noticed the code the other day, thought it was related to all the cranking perhaps. Reseated the two plugs, no joy.
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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I am trying to make sense of a P0741 code accompanied by a flashing OD light.
The truck is a 2002 (12/01) build date) F250, 7.3,4x4, Auto, with 245,000 miles on it. The truck seems to shift fine but around 40/45 it feels like the TC does not lock, followed by the flashing OD light.
The transmission was serviced 500 miles ago but the OD light flash was intermittent until last week, now its been constant. I want to take care of it before I do any damage.
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I have a persistent issue with the OD off light flashing on my 2001 7.3L auto 4x4. Scanning it with AE I get the P1832 code. The truck runs and drives just fine. It shifts nice, goes into overdrive, locks up, etc. If it weren't for that blinking light I'd think it was all perfect. I've checked all the connections, replaced the range switch / neutral safety switch, replaced the VSS on the rear axle, checked all light bulbs and fuses. I've checked MOST of the relays in the truck.
I pulled the tranny drain plug and poured out a bit of fluid into a clean pan, it looks and smells good. AE also tells me that it's not communicating with the ABS system (although there's no persistent ABS warning light on the dash), the Airbag, the Overhead Trip Computer, the Parking Aid (which I don't have...), or the Enhanced Powertrain. The temperature on my overhead display is reading -40F which is clearly wrong.
I've looked for a comprehensive wiring diagram for the truck, but can't find one. I'm trying to figure out if there's a connector or module that these various functions go thru that might be the problem. Am I missing a ground somewhere? The frame was just powdercoated......am I not getting a good ground connection? In complete disclosure, I have torn this truck apart and re-assembled it out of several different trucks as outlined in this thread.
[URL]....
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Well, truck is throwing me for a new loop the day I pick it up from the body shop (crazy, right?). I started out driving it and had a blue haze - I figured it had some air left in the system from doing my injectors so I left it and it cleared up after about 20 miles. I noticed that my SES light came on while idling at a stoplight, but went off when I took off. Figured it was a fluke and kept on getting on.
Well, next light it does the same thing - idle the light is on, take off the light is off. Reading the code yields P1316 - so I pull over and running a buzz test to fetch the IDM codes. Guess what? No codes. All sounded fine, so this is where I got really confused as I'm getting huge mixed signals from this truck suddenly.
As I got to watching my gauges, I noticed that I was idling around 10.8 IPRDC and 530-560 ICP, and when I would get about 16-18 IPRDC the code would go away. Did a near-WOT run when getting on interstate as a test to see how it'd do, and saw IPRDC get up to 98% - the highest I have EVER seen it get on this truck (no idea if it is related or not). I have a log from moving around the lot that I will try and upload soon.
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I randomly started throwing a couple codes that have been causing my "check engine" light to come on ... came on on my way into work this morning) . I know that the P0683 code is the Glow Plug Ctrl Module to PCM Comm Circuit (from my code reader), but I am not sure what to do next ... I have the dealer service DVD from 2002 that I will look at this weekend....
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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I was on the way back from the weekend trip and got a service engine soon light. I didn't notice any lack of power, rough idle or hard starting cold or hot. So we pushed on home. I checked the codes and it is the P1211.
Doing some research it seems the ICP is not as expected so I hooked up my phone with the Torque app and the IPR and ICP seem to be close to normal at idle and running. I din't see any high IPR %.
At idle the IPR was around 15.5 cold and 10.1 after a short run to the store and back when it warmed up a bit. ICP was around 690-720 cold and 470-490 when i got back.
Does that seem like normal readings? I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on right away after starting the truck. I do have a TS performance chip that I will take out and see if that could be causing any problems. What else should I be looking into?
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About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
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Well, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.
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Is this the sign of a bad fan clutch? I can spin it by hand,and it goes round and round.Can I drive it like this until I replace it? I am only driving 30 miles round trip at night, not towing and outside temperature is usually about 100 degrees.
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SO after reading about the air gap on AC compressor, i checked mine and it was large so I removed the shim and the gap was almost like new..
Now when I first switch on AC the compressor will click on and off several times especially at any RPM above 1000.
I hooked up hoses and tried it again with wife holding RPM in 1200. The high side would bounce from 100 to 400, compressor would cycle off and then back on in quick secession with high side bouncing back and forth for 10 seconds or if she let off pedal back to idle RPM.. low side was not moving a lot at this point but not bouncing like the high side. What can be causing the pressure issue? when it stabilizes the pressures are right on for OD temp according to charging chart for R-134a.
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Just got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
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my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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