Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Blown Trans From Torque Converter?
Jul 3, 2016
So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.
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Ok so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
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With my first tow under my belt from this weekend in my new-to-me truck, I quickly learned that my TC shutters in 5th if I hold fuel down enough to bog the truck before it wants to down shift. The shutters are pretty violent as compared to others I've experienced in Explorers and F150s. When do you know it is time to change it out? Or, is there something else I can or should do before changing it?
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How to drain the tranny fluid from the torque converter , I am dropping the pan and installing new filter and fluid, I want to get as much of old fluid out as i can It has a 3.0 engine with overdrive...
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I was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
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Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
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I have a '99 F150 w/ the 5.4 and 4R70W, with 226K miles. I am experiencing what I believe is a TC shudder after the tranny shifts into OD between approximately 40-50mph. This sounds like a pretty common problem with this particular tranny, but some of what I've read describes the shudder as feeling akin to driving over rumblestrips, but what I'm experiencing is a very sharp, bucking. Is this how the TC shudder feels, or am I actually dealing with a misfire. Btw, I did completely change the tranny fluid with Mercon V, and added a friction modifier, but no change. I also read that the TC unlocks when the brake lights come on, so I tried lightly hitting the brakes when the bucking was occuring, but it continued.
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What are the torque specs for tie rods for a 4x4.
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Thought I had these bookmarked but not. What is the torque value for the 13 mm bolt , replacing the tensioner.
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I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
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I just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a PCM labeled "PMT2".
The SES light is triggered every time I try and pull fault codes using Torque Pro. It has done this since I installed Torque Pro many months ago. Same thing happens in another local member's (2000) truck, although I don't know his PCM version.
I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. I have been careful to choose conservative settings, including trying debug mode. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Torque Pro to see if that solves the problem - which it does not.
Question: "PMT2" PCM been able to pull fault codes using Torque Pro without tripping the SES light?
I realize another variable may be my OBD2 Bluetooth device. As an aside, I have removed the AIH and would expect to see a fault code but Torque Pro reports no fault codes.
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The SES light in my 2001 7.3 came on about a month ago while I was towing a light trailer in the SoCal mountains. When I got home I spent about 2 weeks replacing the injector o-rings and glow plugs. I discovered while I was in there that the head bolts on the driver's side where loose. I retorqued them to spec.
Both batteries were disconnected for the 2 weeks. When I started the truck the SES light was still on.
My Torque Pro app isn't showing any error codes, and is reading live data correctly. (I didn't have the app when the light first came on; I only purchased it after I finished the repairs). Am I missing something? Is the SES light not necessarily connected to fault codes? If so, wouldn't it reset after 2 weeks with the batteries disconnected?
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My '01 f350 up and running the last 5 years. The truck has 130,000 miles on it and the transmission quit on me two weeks ago. My mechanic pulled the tranny and sent it to a very reputable rebuilder for a complete rebuild. My mechanic then reinstalled the tranny. I picked up the truck and when I paid the bill my mechanic told me that the rebuilder provided a new 4-plate torque convertor and that I would hear it rattle when I was at stop signs, stop lights etc. and that this was normal for these types of torque convertors. I have searched this forum and found all kinds of reasons for this rattle. None of which tell me this noise is normal or should be expected. I have no problem going back to my mechanic and discussing flex plate cracks, engine/tranny misalignment or any of the other causes...
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My son bought a 1999 F250 Diesel about a year ago. The seller gave him receipts showing that the 4R100 had been rebuilt and a new T.C. installed 25k miles before the sale. The problem is that it is slipping. He says it started with 2nd gear, now it will hardly move in 1st.
Fluid smells a little burnt. We pulled the transmission pan expecting to find lots of friction material. It does not have as much as I thought it would, not as much as I have found in the the pans of the few other auto trans I have seen with worn out frictions. Below are pics of the inside of the pan.
Or, is it the T.C. that is slipping. I have never had a vehicle with a bad T.C. How do you diagnose it? I have experience rebuilding (GM) Turbo 400's and 4L60's. Never had a ford AT apart.
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I have been reading here about alternate methods to torquing the hold down bolts for the injectors. This winter I replaced my old stock split shots with new alliant single shots. I installed the injectors into a cold engine and torqued the hold down bolts to 10 ft lbs. I did not ever go back and re-tighten.
Is it suggested to go in and re-tighten the injector hold down bolts to 10 ft-lbs after the engine has been heated up and cooled down? What are some symptoms of a loose injector? I am imagining premature wear on the injector cups, low compression and maybe some mixing of oil into the combustion chamber.
Did just throw the injectors in and go back later to retorque only to find they were all fine or were some loose?
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I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
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