Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - MPGs Dropped - Spark Plugs / Fuel Filter?
Aug 13, 2016
Im noticing my mpg dropping in the past couple of months. I usually get 19 or 20 in town, and up to 23 on the highway. Now im lucking if I get 16 or 17mpg.
I have a 2001 escape XLT. 6cyl 4x4.
I changed the spark plugs, coils and fuel filter about 3 years ago (almost 40k miles ago).
The car starts fine, seems to idle fine, seems to accelerate ok. The only thing that is off is the MPG.
I dont just want to throw money at parts. Which one should I replace?
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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As far as I know, my Passat has never had any other spark plugs other than OEM. I could also swear that those OEM plugs always had 3 grounds. My gas mileage historically averages about 27MPG in a mixed city/highway environment.
Recently, my spark plugs were replaced and now my gas mileage has dropped to 24MPG. I had a similar problem once with my previous car (1998 Jetta GLI) and it was due to going from a three ground spark plug to a single ground plug. Putting in three ground spark plugs instantly restored the gas mileage to previous levels.
I've read repeatedly that the NKG PFR6Q is the OEM plug but it only has a single ground. I realize that my memory could be faulty, but this is driving me nuts.
Alas I can't be sure what was there before versus what's there now, but I know my previous mechanic was a stickler for OEM parts. Would switching from a multi-ground to a single-ground cause a 10%+ drop in mileage?
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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My husband just replaced the spark plugs in my 2005 prius with 174,000 miles (also replaced the right headlamp bulb). When I started the car, the PROBLEM check engine light Hybrid Warning Light came on.
Owner's manual says take it to the Toyota dealer. The dealer is 50 miles away. Is it safe to drive it the 50 miles? It drove okay up and down my driveway.
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I have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
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I have a 2001 Ford Expedition with the 5.4L engine. I know that there are problems with the engines blowing out spark plugs. Besides putting in sleeves and replacing the cover when necessary, any good luck with a different alternative. If not what products with the above options seem to give you the most bang for your buck.
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My 2010 prius had been giving low mpg since the last three months. It has now 145K miles.when I bought it a year ago, it had 134K on it. I haven't changed the spark plugs, do they have any effect on low mpg? My mpg is about 39 now,but was 42_45 before.
What are the symptoms for the spark plugs to be changed?
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I'm gonna change plugs , hoses, belts and fuel filter on my 08V10. Hoping it works with the mpg.
Anything else I should look for or do? Is there anything I need to know about changing the fuel filter?
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As I say in my first thread my 2000 4 runner don't start after I change the spark plugs. I don't get any fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
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I have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
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Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
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2001 LS v8 .... What would cause the car to give off a strong smell after changing the plugs?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
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The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
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I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
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Is it possible to replace the main bearings in a 2001 Escape 3.0 with the engine in the vehicle?
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