Is there anyway to check the ac evaporator core for leaks without removing the dash and the evaporator core box and opening the ac system? I've got a UV light and the dye is already in. My sense tells me there's no easy way out of this, but maybe one of you has figured out a work around. The vehicle is a 2001 V6 Escape.
View 6 RepliesThe A/C on my 2012 Escape keeps freezing up. Happens mostly on highway and humid days. It's been to the dealership and had literally everything except the hoses/lines replaced.
The final paperwork from Ford said to run it only on the recirculate setting when running the a/c. This works but I really would prefer the fresh air setting.
I feel there is a problem with the system but maybe it's a design flaw instead of an equipment malfunction? Humid and warm weather.
I have an 05 Escape XLT 4WD worth 3.0L V6. My HAYNES says the transfer case lubricant should be checked every 15k - I bought it with 75k and it has 107k now and I have never checked it. I am wondering if it is common practice to do this every 15k? The transfer case is then one next to the oil pan? The book has one photo.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the inside diameter of an '05 Escape heater core hose?
View 5 RepliesMy heater core must have sprung a leak this week. Not that I need heat in this weather but just the smell of it while running the A/C just stinks. I know I am going to have to replace it myself but just for S&G, what would a dealer charge to replace it?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 01 sbcc 2wd 5.4 gasser and I've gone thru 3 heater cores in 18 months. Is there something I'm missing?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
View 9 RepliesThe cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
Is it possible to replace the main bearings in a 2001 Escape 3.0 with the engine in the vehicle?
View 1 RepliesWhat to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 4WD, it has a rattle in the motor and no acceleration... Bought the escape with the rattle when you start it up and put into drive it wont accelerate. Transmission is good...
View 3 RepliesI own a 2001 V6 Ford Escape XLT, although that's already likely far too much information for this weird issue I'm having. It's been going on for a while now, steadily getting worse.
The issue is that the driver's side window will easily roll down, but becomes unresponsive when I click the button to bring the window back up. At first, I could simply press the button a bunch of times and eventually find success. Now, if the window is rolled down, I have to get out of the car and move the door back and forth while furiously pressing the button. Eventually, I'll find a spot in the door's swing where the button will finally make a connection with *something* else inside the door and roll up the window.
What could the issue be? Seems like a clear electrical issue, and something that would occur in the joint of the door, since opening and closing the door is the only way to eventually establish an electrical connection.
A couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
I have a 2001 Escape 3.0 l 6 cyl. She stalls or almost stalls every time I fuel up. I found if I turn key but not to start, it only severely sputters and usually doesn't stall. Replaced EVAP canister (and all but dust separator inside), fuel pump, EGR valve, pcv tube, iac, upper gaskets, valve cover gaskets, seals, spark plugs, fuel/air filter, evap purge valve, fuel filler cap, ftp sensor, all ignition coils, checked for clogged fuel filler neck, fuel/vent hoses from/to evap canister...nothing worked.
There is a hose I cant get to that ends unattached just past fuel tank and near fuel vapor(?) "tee" under car. Seems to come from fuel tank. What is it? Just an overflow vapor hose? Should it be attached to something? Anyway, I suspect fuel vent hose or valve on top of fuel tank since my options are limited now. Have it running great (except this issue) with 260,000 miles so really don't want to spend mucho $$. No codes thrown.
Vehicle: 2001 Escape 3.0L V6
I'm listing here the obvious that has been changed already:
1) Valve cover gaskets
2) Oil pan gasket
3) Timing chain cover gasket
4) Upper and lower manifold gaskets (not oil related but changed)
5) PCV valve
6) Washed engine twice to remove everything and make sure nothing else burning
Problem: I still have a small leak from the top that causes smoke near or around the #4 COP on passenger (left side of the motor). But we do see some oil coming from near the PCV valve. It makes no sense and after reading what caused smoke on that side of the vehicle I changed the Timing chain cover gasket (which were finished anyway) and while was at it the oil pan but to no avail. Smoke and leak still there.
Probably not: I know that it is not the head gasket because there is no sign at all; I've never lost a drop of coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust in back.
Suspicion: Could it be the oil separator where the PCV valve connects and makes it's way around to the other side? Is there something I am overlooking? There can't be many other places for an oil leak like that.
Coincidence ? : Even after changing all the COPS and spark plugs I found oil in the #4. However smoke was there before. I thought maybe a cylinder gasket I got second opinion from my mechanic says no not cylinder...
Engine runs well except for misfire in #4 but comes and goes. I think when oil builds up.
About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
View 7 RepliesIt has been running very smooth since I changed the lower intake gaskets, and I just went on a 1500 mile round trip roadtrip. It ran perfect the whole way, getting 22mpg to boot. In the last 50 miles, the CEL came one. The code read P0420 which is the cat converter? I dont want to fork up for a new one, are there any tricks to get this fixed or cleared?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Escape XLT (3.0) and after getting some wonderful info here regarding my upper/lower intake problem, I thought I would ask about my weird liftgate problem. When I first got the Escape a few months ago, the liftgate opened fine, but it wouldn't lock at all. Then one day for no apparent reason, it stays locked no matter what I do. Some days it opens fine, other days it doesn't.
At some point I made a connection between the Window Lock button on the driver control panel being in lock/unlock mode determining if the liftgate would stay locked or not, but it doesn't always do the trick. So now I am at a loss as to what is causing this. Its very inconvenient to have to go over the back seats to load items into the trunk area, and its also a security issue if I cant get the liftgate to lock when I want it to. Is this still a liftgate actuator issue? or is it a wiring or fuse issue?